gt40 or gt40P heads???
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Old November 8th, 2012, 12:30 AM   #1
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gt40 or gt40P heads???


Hey y'all. I have stock heads on my stang and would like to do a cheap upgrade. Ive read up on gt40's and people say they are a cheap but good way to add some horses if your on a tight budget... which i am. I wasnt acctually going to do the swap,BUT, i found a 97 eddie bauer explorer in a junkyard, and if theyre the right price, why not?. Does it have the gt40 or gt40p heads? Ive read theyre basicaly the same, but just wandering. The explorer had over 200,000 miles, so im assuming i should have em rebuilt, right? And also, with that many miles on them, how much should i pay for the pair? I dont want to pay too much and find out theyre trash. Also if anyone want to share about their swap,, id appreciate the read for info! Thanks!!!
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Old November 8th, 2012, 12:38 AM   #2
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Regular gt40's were in 96-97.5 explorers. Gt40p heads were in 97.5-01. P heads will give better performance but specific headers are a must because of the different spark plug angle. But I've heard of people using different plug wires with heat sleeves and having success.

To check what heads they are, there are bars on the front of the heads next to the freeze plug near the distributor. If it has 3 bars its a regular gt40. 4 bars and its a p head.

I would definitely get them rebuilt and cleaned up. Maybe even ported if you can for cheap.

I swapped on some regular gt40s on my old fox a while back. They were rebuilt and I got them on Craigslist for about $350. At a salvage yard I wouldn't pay more than 150-200. I got mine insanely cheap though for being rebuilt. But I did notice a nice gain in power. And head swaps are very straight forward and simple IMO.


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Old November 8th, 2012, 12:54 AM   #3
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So if they ARENT the p heads i wont have to have specific headers???
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Old November 8th, 2012, 12:55 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by 93Mustang5.0 View Post
So if they ARENT the p heads i wont have to have specific headers???
Correct.


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Old November 8th, 2012, 02:39 AM   #5
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This is what a gt40 head looks like. If you look at the right hand corner . Youll see 3 bars. On a gt40p head there will be 4 bars.

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Old November 8th, 2012, 02:55 AM   #6
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also, on the very top corner it says GTP as well. i have the gt40's on my car. has 3 bars and top right corner on the passenger side it says GT on it. i got gt40 heads and intake (both ported) with all the necessary bolt ons and i got 250 hp at the wheels out of it. considering it is stock cam and an automatic. not bad for a cheap build.
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Old November 8th, 2012, 08:27 AM   #7
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gt 40's will say ''gt'' on the head and have 3 bars. p heads will have a ''p'' in the same spot and have 4 bars. expect at least one of the front lowwer intake bolts to snap of in the head on a 200k motor. it's at a bad angle that will reqire a trip to the machine shop to get the damn thing drilled out, so just plan on that and a valve job, new valve seals, and springs. i think alex parts has the cheepest gt-40 drop in spring kit. thats about $100 bucks. in my area one j/y charges $25 pr head , and the other charges $50. if the whole motor is there get the upper & lower intake , also the throttle body is 65mm ands reqires slight modifacation to the linkage to work on a fox
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Old November 8th, 2012, 10:18 AM   #8
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I prefer the gt 40's over the P's. The spark plug angle makes it a pain to swap plugs unless you get the mac P specific headers. Jmho
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Old November 8th, 2012, 09:55 PM   #9
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My car isnt fi, so i wont beable to use the gt40 intake. I have an edle brock performer 302 intake and a 650 holley dp right now. That intake should work with the gt40 heads right?
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Old November 8th, 2012, 10:43 PM   #10
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It should
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Old November 8th, 2012, 11:18 PM   #11
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I had GT40p's i was gonna use for my car. I started reading into it and ended up with a used set of Trick Flows. For the money you'll have into the GT40P's you might as well find a used set of Trick Flows and be way ahead of the game.
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Old November 9th, 2012, 11:39 AM   #12
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If you can find used trick flows for 200 bucks than yeah.....
P's tend to be cheaper so the spring upgrade and buying aLl the gaskets doesn't hurt the wallet too much
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Old November 9th, 2012, 12:22 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by D.light View Post
If you can find used trick flows for 200 bucks than yeah.....
P's tend to be cheaper so the spring upgrade and buying aLl the gaskets doesn't hurt the wallet too much
Gt40s - 200 bucks
Spring Kit - 140 bucks
Machine work - 300+

You're now 600+ into cast iron stock heads...

Go on corral and pick up a set of ready to trick Flow 170s for a hundred or two hundred more... Tada. MUCH better heads. Just to show how much better trick Flow heads are, here's some food for thought.

My buddy has a notch with the same combo as me except he has trick Flow 170s and 410s while I have Edelbrock performers and 373s. He had a full car (4 people altogether) and I had me and my one friend in mine. We went from a slow roll on an enclosed road and by 4th gear he had me by a car and a half! And I have performers! Now imagine the difference between TW's and stockers... Gt40s or not they're stock heads.

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Old November 9th, 2012, 05:04 PM   #14
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I'm not trying to say gt40p's are THE head to have, but you pretty much summed it up, you're comparing apples to oranges. A factory iron head vs a performance aluminum head. That being said, I don't see the extra 300 in machine work, spring kit is a given, then an install cost for the springs on top of that maybe get the mating surfaces refreshed but that's far from 300 bucks. Realistically it comes down to the dollar factor you could be into a set of 40p's for under 400 bucks (I got much more than just that for 5xx) especially if you buy them used I.e. from someone who ran them on a mustang and already slipped springs into them and had the mating surface refreshed. Now while trick flows are "only 200-300" more that's a pretty chunk of change, especially if they're being bought used and you have to get the mating surfaces redone, decide on port work, new springs etc. if you're end goal is to have a streetable car in the low 12s high 11's on motor than trick flows maybe for you, but if you just want something to build up and cruise around In without sinking close to 1k into just the top end, the 40's/40p's would be a better choice my .02 no offense just my viewpoint
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Old November 9th, 2012, 05:11 PM   #15
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Yeah if you can find some already rebuilt and cleaned gt40's like I did, that would be ALOT cheaper than trickflows. Check Craigslist.


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Old November 9th, 2012, 05:57 PM   #16
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That's all I'm saying they can be had, ready to run for about 300, basically just people looking to get started on their trick flow buildup
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Old November 10th, 2012, 04:03 PM   #17
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The guy at the junkyard wants $95 a piece if i pull the heads off myself, which i dont think is too bad of a price, with 230,000 miles on em. what ya think???. Now im not sure which ones they are because i cant see the marks since they're still on the engine. I did however look at the id badge (whatever you wanna call it) on the drivers door and it says that it was built in 02/97... that being said im Assuming that the heads are GT40's. I took a picture of the sticker and of the spark plugs on the head. if you guys look at the pictures, can you tell me what they are, judging by the spark plug angles??? and will someone tell how to put stupid pictures on here? its not happening for me
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Old November 10th, 2012, 08:17 PM   #18
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i would try and get them for $150 but who cares about $40. when you pull the valve covers off you will see the number cast right into the cylinder head. my heads say gt40p right on the head next to one of the valve springs cant miss it. then wash them, hit them with a surface prep pad throw some valves, seals, and springs at it, check flatness and bolt em up.
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Old November 10th, 2012, 10:22 PM   #19
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like cleangtvert said, figure on at least one of those intake bolts snapping, hose the whole thing down with penetrating oil before you even put one wrench to it. Shouldn't be anything the fire wrench can't get out once you get them home though. Ditto on the headers, bbk long tubes worked for me. As long as you have them off put new valve seals in too. What machine work is needed? Shouldn't be any. I don't buy into the spring kit thing either, 20$ worth of spring shims under stock springs worked for me. Make sure you have enough room with your cam lift so the springs don't bind.
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Old November 11th, 2012, 12:25 PM   #20
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They should be regular gt40's if the production date is 02/97. But you never know. Thats around the threshold of 97.5 so they could be p heads. Check the bars on the head to be sure. Either way, they're a nice upgrade from stock. And I HIGHLY recommend rebuilding them since they have so many miles. Those springs are gonna be so worn out. Take them to a machine shop and get them cleaned up and checked for any imperfections and get some new springs and shit put in.
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