[notsoslow50]

at first i thought it was the solenoid..so i cahnged it..now when i went to ground the positive it just starts to crank over without the key in it or anything..crazy..so idk..is the starter stuck open or is it something with the ignition..

[sivart]

if you can turn it with out the key then i would guess something is wrong with your coloum mechanism

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by notsoslow50 at first i thought it was the solenoid..so i cahnged it..now when i went to ground the positive it just starts to crank over without the key in it or anything..crazy..so idk..is the starter stuck open or is it something with the ignition..

a) you shouldn't be grounding the positive...the negative is the gound wire.

b) its very common for starter solenoids to be garbage right out of the box. i would return it for another one.

c) if the problem persists then its very likely your ignition switch is shorted. there was a recall on them. what happens is the ignition switch shorts and causes the solenoid to get stuck. even though you replaced the solenoid the ignition switch is still shorted and ruins the new solenoid.

in short, exchange the solenoid for a new one. if it also does not work you need to replace the ignition switch and exchange the solenoid again.

[notsoslow50]

its a carbed 302 so there isnt close to as many wires as a fuel injected 302. it has the msd ignition which all the wires are good and no corrosion. i replaced the solenoid and it stil does it so i was jsut thinking it was the starter.

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by notsoslow50 its a carbed 302 so there isnt close to as many wires as a fuel injected 302. it has the msd ignition which all the wires are good and no corrosion. i replaced the solenoid and it stil does it so i was jsut thinking it was the starter.

disconnect all wires from the solenoid. measure resistance between the two large posts of the solenoid. there should be infinite resistance. if otherwise, the solenoid is faulty.

[neverfastenough1]

Also, make sure there is only one cable on the side of the solenoid that goes to the starter. While you have the solenoid disconnected, take the ignition wire off the solenoid hook up the ground cable and check the ignition wire for power with the switch turned off. If you have fire thru the ignition wire with the switch off, then the switch is bad.

[notsoslow50]

i have the msd ignition setup..im not even sure if this carbed 302 setup even has a ignition switch..lol..if it does i couldnt find it..all i know is when we first grounded the negative to the block, then we put the positive to the solenoid and it started to crank..so whenever i put that ground on the solenoid it will start to crank..

[neverfastenough1]

Hey man I tried to IM you back, but I lost it so I will write it here. I think Tengram is right about the switch which is what the key activates, but lets check to see if everything is wired right. I don't know why there is a ground wire on the solenoid. Your ignition switch in your column gets power from the battery cable side of the solenoid. It then sends power to the coil, the accessory fuses, the hego, the idiot lights, the eec relay, and the ignition wire on the solenoid (little wire on top). Looking at the solenoid form the drivers side of the car, on the front there should be a cable going to the starter. On the back post, there should be a yellow cable (supplies power to the ignition), the battery cable (positive), and some other wires. The ground cable should be grounded to the engine block. How it works is, when you turn the key to the on position it sends power to all that stuff I mentioned except the ignition wire. When you turn it to the start position, it sends power to the ignition wire to the solenoid. The solenoid is grounded to the fender. There is a little coil inside the solenoid that is magnetized when the power flows thru from the ignition wire. The magnet closes a switch in the solenoid between the front post and the back post and causes the starter to get power. When the key is released back to the run position the power is cut from the ignition wire and demagnetizes the switch in the solenoid. I would start by checking all the wires to make sure they are hooked up correctly and are in good shape. Then I would start checking the system to find out where it is bad. Take the ignition wire off the solenoid. Hook up the cables and see if it cranks. If not then the ignition switch is more than likely bad. If it does crank, then the solenoid is more than likely bad or something is wrong with the wiring. If it cranks you will still need to check the ignition switch because that could be causing the solenoid switch to go bad. To do this, take the cables off the rear of the solenoid (the battery cable side), take the ignition wire off the top of the solenoid, connect the battery cable to the ignition switch cable (should be yellow), hook up the battery, test the ignition wire for power with a test light. No power the switch is good. All these tests are with the key turned off. Now if by some chance you have a mini starter, let me know and I will tell you what would be different about the wiring. Good luck, and I hope this is not confusing.

http://img72.imageshack.us/my.php?image=solenoidxa0.jpg

[neverfastenough1]

I just remembered you said it was carbed, so ignore all that extra stuff I said the ignition switch powered.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

What is your street address?

[neverfastenough1]

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY What is your street address?

You think he lives near you? That would be good.

[notsoslow50]

ill just buy a new solenoid put that on..see what happens then if it does it again ill buy a new switch return the solenoid for a new one..thne see what happens..lol..

[neverfastenough1]

I would not go buying parts without finding out what is causing the problem first. I will try to make this easier, and easier to understand, but I am kinda going on 17 hours at work right now because we had some late missions so I hope I get this right.

1. Unhook the negative cable from the battery.
2. Make sure all other cables are hooked up. Only one cable going to the starter on the front post of the solenoid.
3. Disconnect the small ignition wire on the top center of the solenoid.
4. Hook the negative cable to the battery. If it turns over the solenoid is bad.

If the solenoid is bad, still check the ignition switch to make sure it is not bad and causing the solenoid to go bad.

1. Unhook the cable on the front post of the solenoid going to the starter.
2. Hook up the negative cable to the battery.
3. Check for power at the ignition wire with a test light. If you have power the ignition switch is bad.

Again, all this is done with the key in the off position. Good luck.

Bill

[notsoslow50]

i understand a lot better now..lol..im going to do that tomorrow and ill let you know how everything goes..thanks

[neverfastenough1]

No problem. I kinda figured that first post was hard to understand.

[notsoslow50]

so yeahh did all those tests, i can turn the key and try to start it without it getting stuck open..it never fully cranked over though..so i tried it three times and after the third try, on the next one i heard a tick from the solenoid. then i tested the igntition wire with a test light and it did light up, that test was done with the key in the off position.

[neverfastenough1]

If your solenoid clicks, it is working. Sounds like you got a bad ignition switch like Tengram said.

[notsoslow50]

yeaa im going to hit that up today and hopefully she starts.