[FranMan]

Hello all. I just picked up a mustang and have some questions/issues, this is my first mustang/ford. Here is a run down of the car.

1989 Coupe ex Florida Highway Patrol. Front bumper and hood need painting, but the paint on the rest of the car is in good shape. This car is fast for what it is, it will make a perfect street strip car. No power options, no air, no ps, no radio. It has GT40P heads that have new valves, with a three angle valve job and new valve springs. F303 cam, ported stock intake, 70mm professional products TB, 75mm proM mass air, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, mac shorty headers, 2.5in h pipe with flowmasters turned down, 3.73 gear, moser 28 spline 5 lug axles, T-5 trans with a B&M ripper shifter, Lakewood 90/10's and 50/50's with moroso trick springs on the rear, stock springs up front and no sway bar up front, and kenny brown subframe connectors. It has a nitrous works plate kit with NX soleniods and N.O.S. purge valve. 15x3.5 and 15x9 weld draglites with 275/60/15 M/T drag radials. It has been 8.02 @ 85 mph with a 1.71 60ft on motor, and 7.43@94 with a 1.69 60ft on 150 shot with ET streets. I do not launch the car hard on nitrous because of the T-5, as you can see with the 60ft times, if it was launched hard and shifted the way it needs to be on the nitrous it would go faster. The car is really strong and would be a high 7 sec car on motor with a little fine tuning and a better flowing intake.

Here is what I have noticed so far with the car. When it is warmed up and you get on it pulls fair. The guy says the timing is set low for the nitrous (12 degrees). I am sure it would pull a lot better with the timing upped. At idle it stinks of fuel, it is running pretty rich. On cold starts it doesn’t like to run. You have to feather the gas to get it going. If you try to take off it likes to pop and sputter. It seems if you get it up to 2,500ish there isn’t any issues. After it is warmed up it will surge sometimes if you are cruising at 1,800 to 1,900ish rpm. It feels like you are tapping the gas. The check engine light is on also.

The guy said there isn’t a chip/piggyback on the car. He just turns the timing down and raises the fuel from 40psi to 44psi when running the nitrous. It has a stock looking FPR that when you pull the vacuum line off there is a adjustment screw. I was looking around and it looks like the TwEECer maybe ticket to having a nice driving car that I can switch when I am running the nitrous. Anyone have an opinions on how I should fix/mod the car?

[FranMan]

I forgot I have an 89 ford card for my OTC2000. I pulled the codes

31-PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.
85- Canister Purge Solenoid circuit failure.
84- EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.


Then I did an engine check thing and got
12- Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test high RPM check.
21- ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
31-PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.
41-HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side). or No HEGO switching detected always lean (right side).
91- Shift solenoid 1 circuit failure (E4OD). or No HEGO switching detected always lean (left side). or HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (left side).



I am sure what the terms are. HEGO mean the o2 right? Is the left side the passenger side? Is there anyway to get rid of the 84 and 85? What is the PFE or EVP stand for?

THanks for the help!






I have some injectors rated at 27lbs at 39psi.

[neverfastenough1]

First, I don't recall 27 lb injectors. Second, Tengram will be on hopefully n a while. It will help him if you warm up the car first, then do the test over. Some of your codes indicate a cold engine test. The 91 and 41 are saying its running lean. The PFE and EVP are egr related. Hopefully they will go away along with the lean codes when done with a warm engine, but its not looking good for them. The one that gives the indication the most that the engine was cold is the ECT code. Re-dong it warm will answer some questions for him.

[FranMan]

Originally Posted by neverfastenough1 First, I don't recall 27 lb injectors. Second, Tengram will be on hopefully n a while. It will help him if you warm up the car first, then do the test over. Some of your codes indicate a cold engine test. The 91 and 41 are saying its running lean. The PFE and EVP are egr related. Hopefully they will go away along with the lean codes when done with a warm engine, but its not looking good for them. The one that gives the indication the most that the engine was cold is the ECT code. Re-dong it warm will answer some questions for him.

I have some injectors out of a turbo dodge. they come out to 27lb at 39psi. Which I can install. The car was cool when I ran the test but shouldn't it be in range around 90-100 degrees? The car doesn't look like there is any EGR stuff installed on it. Is there a way to keep the codes from popping up?

thanks

[95opal]

From the pic it looks like those are stock 19#s.

[neverfastenough1]

I don't know if these will help but its the first ones that popped up.

http://www.adaptiveperformance.com/egr.html

Also, according to FordFuelInjection the KOEO test has to be done above 50 degrees, and the KOER test has to be above 180 degrees.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

[FranMan]

Originally Posted by neverfastenough1 I don't know if these will help but its the first ones that popped up. http://www.adaptiveperformance.com/egr.html Also, according to FordFuelInjection the KOEO test has to be done above 50 degrees, and the KOER test has to be above 180 degrees. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

Good info there. I ordered the EGR plug.

[89StangGT]

Originally Posted by 95opal From the pic it looks like those are stock 19#s.

+1

[JBIGBOOTSY]

If the KOER test gives the cant raise Idle code its 1 of 3 things vacuum leak, bad IAC, or bad MAF signal. The lean codes, and the part throttle studder lead me to think vacuum leak. Usually a vacuum leaks "symptoms" dissappear at heavy loads, depending on how bad they are.

[FranMan]

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY If the KOER test gives the cant raise Idle code its 1 of 3 things vacuum leak, bad IAC, or bad MAF signal. The lean codes, and the part throttle studder lead me to think vacuum leak. Usually a vacuum leaks "symptoms" dissappear at heavy loads, depending on how bad they are.

Any common vacuum leak areas to check? Wouldn't it have to be a pretty big leak to cause the studder? I'll check it tonight. I have heard what sounds like a vacuum leak but only hear it when I am slowing down to make a low speed turn. I was thinking it was be air filter maybe it is part of the problem. I don't hear it at idle or reving it up.


I did replace the ECT sensor and noticed the coolant was really low. Like 3/4 of a gallon low. I topped it off and the drive to work seemed smoother but it was running hotter. It was within the "normal" on the gauge but was getting close to the red. What do these motors like to run at? I am planning to swap the driver's side o2 tonight (that is the "left" site, true?).

thanks again for the help.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Old avacuum hoses are a good start to check for leaks. the 3/8 plenum to plenum that is under the plenum is one that allways seems to give up.