[terribleonexx88]

how hard are rotors and pads to put on. i ordered cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads and im debating whether to do it myself or not. ive never worked on disc brakes before. ive looked in my haynes and chiltons and it looks pretty easy but my brakes are very important and i dont wanna efff it up. any tricks or tips would be very helpful.

[mikebert]

It couldn't be easier.

Drum brakes are a different story.

[GTsetGO]

yeah, disc are pretty easy.

[86ttops]

They are realy easy . Be sure to get brake pad grease and put on the back of the pads to stop binding and skweaking and to get brake cleaner and clean the rotors they come with oil on them from shipping to stop rusting. Do one at a time so you can look at the other side if you need too. All in all pretty easy.

[HMUSN]

yea like they said. it's easy.

if you google it, I am sure there is a walk through somewhere.

[terribleonexx88]

i attemped to do my brakes today but after getting through the set back of the center cap wheel lock i found good ol' fords anti theft lug on there that i dont have the key for. im gunna have to go to ford to get a master key.

[baine21225]

just make sure you keep the bearings/seals/races free of dirt when your doing it......but like they all said its the easiest thing ever

[Drick]

Disc are easy as hell drum are easy too dont let anyone scare you but you will need a spring tool wich arent expensive. like $20 and then they are easy just remember how they came off and only do one side at a time so you can look at the other to install the same way.

[mikebert]

Originally Posted by 8t6gt Disc are easy as hell drum are easy too dont let anyone scare you but you will need a spring tool wich arent expensive. like $20 and then they are easy just remember how they came off and only do one side at a time so you can look at the other to install the same way.

Yeah, they aren't impossible, but you may think so the first time you do it. The took will help a bit but is not required. Patience is the best thing to use on that job.

[Drick]

i've never tried it without one and it will be near impossible when you dont have one I got mine from MAC tools for $20

[mikebert]

Originally Posted by 8t6gt i've never tried it without one and it will be near impossible when you dont have one I got mine from MAC tools for $20

Not really. A needle nose pliers will get the job done, unless you're a total wimp because you don't have the mechanical advantage of the brake tool.

[Drick]

mabey thats my problem im just a total wimp

[NoRegrets]

I wouldn't go with Cross Drilled rotors, your going to start seeing your rotors crack around the drilled holes.. I'd just get a set of good new regular rotors.

Go to AutoZone and get the calipers for a 1987 Lincoln Mark VII.. they are the 73MM piston calipers and are a direct bolt on. I got mine for 14 dollars a piece, brand new (It's 25 if you don't bring in your old calipers).

The only part that will not work on the calipers are the brake pads (duh). I got the Semi-Metallics since I was short on time and NEEDED a pair.. Other wise I'd go Ceramic since it cuts down on brake dust, dramatically.

If you have the money, get the metal bushings for the caliper pins, it'll stiffen the calipers and give you a square push on your rotors.

I noticed a BIG difference in braking power.. I'd also upgrade to the 10 inch drums in the back.. You can get those off of a Lincoln as well..

If you upgrade your rear drums, get a better Master Cylinder.. I'd go with a SN95 master cylinder since it'll give you a better feel.


Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks.

[mikebert]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks.

You do not need to need to bleed your brakes just because you're changing the pads. I know we all have to start somewhere, but honestly, if you're asking about changing pads then I wouldn't recommend attempting to bleed your brakes without someone who's done it before.

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by mikebert Originally Posted by NoRegrets Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks. You do not need to need to bleed your brakes just because you're changing the pads. I know we all have to start somewhere, but honestly, if you're asking about changing pads then I wouldn't recommend attempting to bleed your brakes without someone who's done it before.

I ment bleeding the brakes when changing calipers.

Plus, I didn't ask about changing pads?

[mikebert]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets I ment bleeding the brakes when changing calipers. Plus, I didn't ask about changing pads?

Of course you would if you change calipers. And no, you didn't ask about changing brake pads but our beloved topic creator did, so it doesn't matter.

But now that you got me thinking about it, I don't think it's been mentioned yet but when you take the calipers off, you need to support them somehow so that you don't rest the weight of the calipers on the brake line. I usually set a jackstand to its full height and support the caliper from the bottom, but you can just take a coat hanger, straighten it out, then fold it into an S shape and hang one end on the (suspension) spring and put the other end through the caliper.

But if you do notice any amount of liquid dripping as you're doing your brake job, you need to bleed the brakes.

[NoRegrets]

Originally Posted by mikebert Originally Posted by NoRegrets I ment bleeding the brakes when changing calipers. Plus, I didn't ask about changing pads? Of course you would if you change calipers. And no, you didn't ask about changing brake pads but our beloved topic creator did, so it doesn't matter. But now that you got me thinking about it, I don't think it's been mentioned yet but when you take the calipers off, you need to support them somehow so that you don't rest the weight of the calipers on the brake line. I usually set a jackstand to its full height and support the caliper from the bottom, but you can just take a coat hanger, straighten it out, then fold it into an S shape and hang one end on the (suspension) spring and put the other end through the caliper. But if you do notice any amount of liquid dripping as you're doing your brake job, you need to bleed the brakes.

I sit mine on a jackstand.

[terribleonexx88]

Originally Posted by NoRegrets I wouldn't go with Cross Drilled rotors, your going to start seeing your rotors crack around the drilled holes.. I'd just get a set of good new regular rotors. Go to AutoZone and get the calipers for a 1987 Lincoln Mark VII.. they are the 73MM piston calipers and are a direct bolt on. I got mine for 14 dollars a piece, brand new (It's 25 if you don't bring in your old calipers). The only part that will not work on the calipers are the brake pads (duh). I got the Semi-Metallics since I was short on time and NEEDED a pair.. Other wise I'd go Ceramic since it cuts down on brake dust, dramatically. If you have the money, get the metal bushings for the caliper pins, it'll stiffen the calipers and give you a square push on your rotors. I noticed a BIG difference in braking power.. I'd also upgrade to the 10 inch drums in the back.. You can get those off of a Lincoln as well.. If you upgrade your rear drums, get a better Master Cylinder.. I'd go with a SN95 master cylinder since it'll give you a better feel. Remember to bleed your brakes after you've done your brake job.. Start from the furthest wheel from your master cylinder.. (Rear passenger tire.. then driver side tire, then passenger tire, then the driver side.. If not, you'l have air in your lines and your brakes will become "mushy" or even worse, your brake will fall to the floor when you least expect it.) You can get one man brake bleeders for 15-20 bucks.

i dont have to bleed my brakes or change the calipers. im putting new rotors and pads on. im sure crossed drilled rotors are way better than oem ones seeing where there included in almost every performance brake kit you can buy. i dont think mine will crack im not gonna be doin any road racing its just my d.d. and weekend warrior.

[Drick]

You will be safe with the cross drilled they shouldnt crack I have never seen it before

[86ttops]

I have cross drilled and slotted rotors no cracks why would they use them on race cars if they cracked?