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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
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v8 in germany
Hi!
my name is flo; I'm from germany...my car is a everett-morisson(FL) cobra replica ...it has a 302EFI....the engine is from ford racing....it should be about the same like a 93-95 mustang cobra has...it has sharp camshafts;gt40 head and intake;and a supercharger....and now and theres the problem...it had catalytic converters in the sidepipes...I killed them......and after two broken smog pumps(they broke inside)...I had to install the elimination kit and removed the big hose between block and pump(with the two valves on it)....now I have problems to install the vacuum lines correctly! the big vacuum line(steel) from the block with the big valve is open....I had a small K&n filter on it----just for testings....I don't want to put a cap on it....I don't know?....bettter open?or closed? then I have two small electric valves and a bigger one...do I need them? I connected every part that is related to the small vacuum lines....like egr-valve;then the valve thats on the fuel rail; the other fuel pressure valve, that came with the supercharger; I did a test drive....engine runs like hell(little more like before),but bad at idle speed......and and when I roll,2500rpm,then no throttle, and then trying to accelerate is very bad....it starts shaking......is that what the three electrical valves regulate/eliminate?...I have also much more backfires then before... I have no one here who is able to help me!!.....At every ford dealer they say: Ford does not sell any V8 in europe..so they have no idea about my engine.....ridiculous!!!...I live 20miles from one of Ford's biggest production centre(factory)....they won't help!!thats a big problem for me! please excuse my english....I always have to look up for engine related vocabulary:-) If someone can help me....I can send some pics thnx and greetings fom Germany!!!!!!!!! -flo- |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,287
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First off welcome to the site. It would definitely help if you posted some pics. If I cant help there are plenty of ppl here that do know.
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
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Definitely post pics. Was the car made in America? Do you know where it came from and what could have been done to it originally?
I have a good idea about what you're describing, but pics would help out. If you could, post pics 1) of the engine as it is now, 2) the places you disconnected or removed stuff and 3) what you did remove (assuming you have it laying around). And welcome to MM! |
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#4 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: 11 reviews
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welcome to the forums.
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#5 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
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hi again
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#6 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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...
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#7 |
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Enthusiast
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Oh! I didn't know who Everett-Morrison was, I didn't know you meant an AC Cobra.
Anyways, it looks very clean, congrats. Back to your problem at hand though. Yes, that hose you pictured was exactly what I was thinking about so I think we can take care of this. Do you know what type of engine you have exactly? That is not a normal 5.0 Mustang setup. Maybe some GT40 crate they supercharged? The hose you took off (should) run to a metal pipe that comes from the back of the engine. If you follow it, it should attach to each cylinder head (not the block, as you mentioned). When people take off the EGR setups, they uncover the two thermactor holes in the back of the cylinder heads. Those holes are a pain to deal with and I've heard all manner of ways to cope with them, some of which include putting a spark plug in the whole, then snapping off whatever sticks out. I think the safest bet is to leave the pipe on there and just seal the end that pokes around the side of the engine. Cheap solution = grab a piece heater hose about an inch in diameter, clamp it on the pipe, then stick a bolt in the other end and clamp it in place. Viola, no more leaks from the heads. As far as the vacuum issues, I am not familiar with your setup. This is what comes on the Foxes: ![]() You can recognize that hose you took off, running left to right in the pictures. That octopus thing is where the vacuum lines hook up. I just stuffed some screws into the empty holes left behind when I took the hose out myself. If you need some help just let me know because I have plenty of pics. If you know what lines we're dealing with, someone can find a diagram. |
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#8 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
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does anyone have a diagram from the vacuum lines?...I couldn't find one...
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#9 |
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Cigar Assassin
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what part of germany you at?
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#10 |
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Regular
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i hate to jack the thread but how much vaccum shoul be able to feel out of those lines? i have a one coming from that "octupus" thing too and i cant feel a leak or anything from that....should i be able to or what?
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#11 |
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Enthusiast
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You should be able to pull any vacuum line off, put your thumb over the whole, and feel it stick to your hand.
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#12 |
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Regular
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http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d80194d04.gif
Theres like 40 of them on here.... but they all look the same to me... heres where they are: Autozone.com do it yourself tab (should be the default) expand "repair Info" tree on left Go to "vehicle Repair guides" You will then be prompted to enter your car's information, I used 1993 Ford Mustang Cobra. Then you have a choice of which section you want. For vaccum go to the "Emmission Controls" section Scroll down alittle and you will see "vaccum diagrams" in the list. Click there and it takes you to the diagrams This will work for most makes/models, but I didnt see your specific one there....sorry... I used these for the electrical and vaccum in mine when I rebuilt it and it was a huge help. Im in Ansbach right neo, going to Frankfurt tonight and back home on Tuesday. Your Country is Very Beautiful. Hope this Helps you out and Welcome to the site! |
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#13 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
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I forgot to say thanx to u all!!
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#14 |
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Atomized
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,370
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post up a pic of the whole car!
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#15 |
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Regular
1989 LX Vert - 1993 Notch
Fast
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Houston
Posts: 398
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Sounds like you have a vacuum leak to me.
Just cap the vac lines, get rid of the rubber hose and leave the hard tube on the back of the heads. The hard line running behind the engine has a one-way check valve where the rubber hose connects and can just be left in place.
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#16 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Gt
Not Slow
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SJ-CA, 50-ft elev.
Posts: 1,649
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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this is the one bolted to motor between firewall?
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2k2 Gt Eibach pro kit, bbk cold air, exhaust, 4.10s, 6k hid's |
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