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Old September 8th, 2007, 10:14 PM   #1
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Nitrous


i want to put nitrous on my car... just a 75 shot and i wanted to know if this setup on ebay would be a complete kit and i wouldnt need anything else.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-...spagenameZWDVW

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZEX-F...spagenameZWDVW

and whats the difference between wet and dry? i knew but now forgot the details

thanks
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Old September 9th, 2007, 02:26 AM   #2
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Wet kit shoots n2o and fuel mixture into the incoming air stream. Dry kit shoots n2o into the existing fuel system and thru the injectors. The dry kit uses bottle pressure to boost the fuel pressure thru the injectors, while with a wet kit you don't have to worry about injector size because you are adding a mixture of fuel/giggle gas into the air intake path. Wet kit usually = more hp possibility, but if you are only wanting 75 shot no need to worry about that.
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Old September 9th, 2007, 02:28 AM   #3
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Dont buy a nitrous kit off ebay buy from somewere you can trust
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Old September 10th, 2007, 05:48 PM   #4
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I purchased and installed a wet nitrous kit from DRP (Dynamic Racing Products) on Ebay.

It came with good parts, a nice bottle, and a NOS nozzle and was under $400 shipped. Also, it came with all the parts needed. My only complaint was that it took over 2 weeks to get the kit.

I put it on my buddy's car and with 100 hp shot his ET dropped from 14.0 to 12.8. Not too bad for $400, huh?
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Old September 10th, 2007, 07:03 PM   #5
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why just a 75 shot?
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Old September 10th, 2007, 09:28 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by neverfastenough1
Wet kit shoots n2o and fuel mixture into the incoming air stream. Dry kit shoots n2o into the existing fuel system and thru the injectors. The dry kit uses bottle pressure to boost the fuel pressure thru the injectors, while with a wet kit you don't have to worry about injector size because you are adding a mixture of fuel/giggle gas into the air intake path. Wet kit usually = more hp possibility, but if you are only wanting 75 shot no need to worry about that.
Man, I think you may have worded that wrong. The wet kit you got right, but a "dry" kit doesn't inject nitrous into the car's fuel system. A dry shot is just that- it is just spraying N2O with no fuel straight into the motor. You can get away with a small dry shot on an EFI motor by spraying the nitrous through the MAF. This causes the IAC to sense a huge temperature decrease and richens the fuel mixture. However, you are playing with fire if you spray a dry shot through a carburetor as the carb has no way to adjust for the oxygen enriched atmosphere the nitrous will create. Even with EFI, you should be careful not to run over a 50 shot and be careful with that.
You can run a dry shot with a tune and bigger injectors, but you will need a flip switch or something to keep from overloading your motor with fuel while off the N2O. All in all, it is actually cheaper to run a wet kit if you are going 75+HP.

Hoepe that helps..........
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Old September 10th, 2007, 09:34 PM   #7
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how does nitrous work for a carbed car?? is it the same basically
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Old September 10th, 2007, 09:40 PM   #8
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You should really use a wet shot with a plate or a direct port set up on a carb motor. Just make sure your fuel pump can support the extra fuel consumption. Also, you will need to back about 1.5 degrees of timing out for every 50HP worth of nitrous. BTW: some people say 2degrees for every 50 hp and some say 1- I have always used 1.5, but I have never run over a 150 shot either. It's pretty simple if you take your time, understand what you are doing, and buy quality parts.

One more thing: gap your plugs at about .035" for nitrous use.
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Old September 10th, 2007, 09:50 PM   #9
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isnt the stock gap .054..so i would go lower with the gap..and btw is this direct port for carbed

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...61404_-1_10321
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Old September 10th, 2007, 10:04 PM   #10
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A plate is much easier to use and a direct port is not necessary with small shots of nitrous.By the way you dont have to drill and tap into your intake with a plate system.
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Old September 10th, 2007, 10:06 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by notsoslow50
isnt the stock gap .054..so i would go lower with the gap..and btw is this direct port for carbed

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...61404_-1_10321
Yes, but you do not need a kit like this to run 150HP shot or less. It will just be a pain in the ass. Get a plate carb kit. Compucar sells a great plate kit.
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Old September 10th, 2007, 10:14 PM   #12
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o0o thanks..and ill still need to gap the plugs at .034 and ill have to set the timing back like 4 degrees basically too
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Old September 13th, 2007, 01:30 AM   #13
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For 150 shot, I wouldn't worry about regapping your plugs unless you are running a stock coil.

Run a 1 step colder plug though.

You can set the timing back if you want to be safe, but personally, I never set the timing back, I just put a few gallons of 110 octane in when I am going to the track.
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Old September 13th, 2007, 03:29 PM   #14
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yea true..is it hard to set the timing
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Old September 13th, 2007, 05:05 PM   #15
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Well not so much, but with mechanical timing, I don't really enjoy playing with the total timing. Having someone hold the motor at 4000 rpms while I am messing around under the hood with a wrench and a timing light isn't my idea of a fun time. Also I usually find that my ears are ringing when I get done...lol. I have set the timing back before, only to turn it back up. I'd say try it out first on a 3-5 second spray and check plugs, then if no signs of detonation, try a 10 second spray. Still no signs of detonation, you should be good.
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Old January 19th, 2010, 12:20 AM   #16
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Or just but a single stage timing retard, assuming you have an aftermarket ignition system.
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Old January 19th, 2010, 12:26 AM   #17
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This is from 2007 newb check the dates before posting.
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Old January 19th, 2010, 12:58 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by black89GT View Post
This is from 2007 newb check the dates before posting.
haha, wow....
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