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Discussing 3G alternator.... in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. Ok. So i decided to upgrade to the 3G. But first i have questions. I ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 | |
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3G alternator....
Ok. So i decided to upgrade to the 3G. But first i have questions. I always have questions.
Checked a bunch of sites and think i have a understanding of what i need to do. Or Is that the harness i need? Or is it easier to just snip some wires on my factory harness. Also anyone have a part number for the ford harness. I could get one cheap from Ford. Will this work? Or should i just buy a new 94-95 5.0 alternator from my work. -1994/5 Mustang GT 5.0 alternator from dealership/auto parts store. -7 ft of 4 gauge wire from the local stereo shop. This was very fancy wire but was the only wire we could find in such short a time. You can use normal 4 gauge wire. -12 gauge fuselink wire from Car Quest part# PW12F -3/8" ring terminal for 8 gauge wire (for the two 12 gauge fuselink wires to the starter solenoid) -1/4" ring terminal for 4 gauge wire for installation to the alternator stud. -4 gauge butt connector and heat shrink for it. Most large butt connectors (6 gauge and up) do not come with insulation -3/8" coarse thread heli-coil kit for the upper mounting bolt or a 3/8" bolt 1 1/2" long with a nut -convoluted tubing for the 4 gauge wire to protect it from scuffing and for looks ![]() -factory alternator plug for the stator wire (white/black stripe). Available sources are the local junkyard or Ford Racing -electrical tape Thanks a bunch. P.S. Is this a good diagram?
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White99stang-
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#2 |
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I think the last ebay link is what you want. Comes with the wiring haness etc...
It also has the smaller body of the 95 amp unit, which means it will fit in your stock bracket without much modification (you might need a few minutes with a file). The wiring is pretty easy. As a side note, make sure that you run a fuse (like a 150 AMP fuse) or a fuseable link (I would prefer a fuse, I have 175 amp fuse on mine) between your alternator and battery. If anyone tells you otherwise, don't listen to them, you need a fuse there. The alternator can ground itself if it has a diode failure, resulting in your battery being directly grounded, which as you can imagine could result in a pretty nasty electrical fire. |
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#3 | |
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Pretty much....
Ok...So im gonna buy a new alternator for a 94 5.0 from work. Gotta get what...6-7 feet of 4ga wire. And a inline fuse rated somewhere between 150-200amps ( Can i use a Mega Fuse with holder? ) and 2 ring connectors. One for solinoid and one for alternator. Connect it close to the battery. Then also others told me a 4ga ground is a MUST. Just gotta figure out where to ground it.. Then cut and splice into the white with black wire and crimp on a female connection to plug into the alternator. Plug the rest into new alt. Grind down the small amount on bracket. Then also some say to connect the factory power wire to the alternator as well... That doesnt sound very good idea to me. Seems rather easy once i did some looking into it.
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#4 |
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Yeah, you don't have to use the factory wires, but if you do, your gauge in the car will still work. They will be sharing the load with the new power wire, so you shouldn't have any problems.
A mega fuse will work, that is what I used and I didn't even use a holder, I just bent the ends so that I could bolt one end to the solenoid, then I bolted the incoming alternator wire and a few accessories to the other end and shrink wrapped it. You really don't need a 4 ga wire. Like an 8 or even smaller will work just fine. I think I have a 10 ga silver wire along with the stock wires and they do not get warm. Your battery should be grounded to the engine, the engine should have a grounding strap to the chassis. |
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#5 |
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Iuse both the factory wires and the 4g thats whats recommended from pa performance. my gauge works.
run the 4g to the + side of the solenoid.
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#6 |
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Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas for American Wire Gauge
Safe maximum: 4 ga = 135 amp max 5 ga = 118 amp max 6 = 101 7 = 89 8 = 73 9 = 64 10 = 55 11 = 47 12 = 41 The factory wiring can handle 82 amps as there are two 12 ga wires. Adding a 10 ga wire to the circuit gives you 137 amp capacity. Adding a 4 ga wire gives you 217 amp capacity, which is why PA recommends it (they sell 200 amp alternators too). |
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#7 | |
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Well.....honestly. Whats the price of a 4g wire compaired to a fire in youre engine bay ?
Im going the 4g route and im also upgrading the fuseable link in between the factory wiring. Because honestly i dont trust wiring that old.
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#9 | |
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One last thing. If i decide not to use the factory power...i should just cut the 2 black w/ orange and set them aside. Then only use the larger wire for power. BUT my factory volt gauge wont work. If i choose to use it i'll probably just cut the inline fuse and put in a new fuse.
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#10 | |
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#12 | |
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yeah im a ford tech so i have all diagrams at my disposal.
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