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#1 |
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Fuel Pump getting 5 volts
I thought I had a fuel pump problem, but found out I am only getting 5-6 volts when I turn on the car or when I crank the engine. I checked the inertia switch, it is good, and also getting 5 volts there as well. Any ideas as to why I am only getting 5-6 volts???
Thanks, Trebor
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#2 |
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ck the relay.
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#3 |
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where
where is the relay? I thought it was under drivers seat, but found out that was an a/c relay
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#4 | |
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Re: where
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#5 |
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Billy Weston
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on your 89???? If so I concur with what they said yank the seat out and check the voltage there.
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#6 |
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OK, I did
I went to autozone and they looked up the part number and told me it was an A/C relay, then they showed me other relays for the fuel pump. One had too many prongs, the other had the correct amount of prongs but did not have the same shape as the Ford relay, the Ford relay had a bump/hump molded into one side, the replacement was square, but it should plug in.
I got 12V on one of the wires, I think it was Orange, and I got 6V on 2 of the wires, and I think 3-4 volts on the other wire. ugh.............................................
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#7 |
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Relay didn't fix the problem
Relay didn't fix the problem:
looks like 12V on orange wire and 4-6 volts on the other wires at all times Any suggestions?????????????? Thanks in advance BTW, The relay I got had an extra terminal on it, but I was told it was the replacement, apparently this one relay works on a lot of applications??? anybody have a good schematic of the fuel system electronics One other side note, kind of funny, but hopefully not related is that when I turn on the right blinker the speedometer flashes Seriously, the blinker works just fine, front and rear, but the light on the left side of the speedometer flashes instead of the blinker indicator LOL Also the hazard flashers don't work, but that is probably because of the weird blinker
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#8 |
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thats interesting cuz the f/p relay is behind the p/s kick panel by the computer
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#9 |
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'89 with 4 cyl. had blk/org=12 volts at all times; red/blk switched power through inertia switch from ecc power relay; tan/lt grn to the eec; pink/blk to fuel pump
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#10 |
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I was told the relay is under the drivers seat????????????
I was told the relay is under the drivers seat????????????
Oh my, I am so confused. I am ready to scream guys................ Some one please just kick me in the nuts If I had 6 volts at the inertia switch would that mean the FP relay would not be the issue, maybe a ECC relay, not that I would know where that is located
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#11 |
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according to my book...you had a blk/org from a fusible link--eec power relay---redwire to inertia sw.---red/blk to relay.
ok...red/blk at relay should have 12 vlts. blk/org at relay is fusible linked and should have 12 volts. the blk/org is the one going to the pump. Sounds like youre fusible links may have melted
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#12 |
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see what you have at pin #1 of the ecc. its blk/org. comes off the fusible link side of the ecc pwr relay so it should have 12 vlts
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#13 | |
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Re: I was told the relay is under the drivers seat??????????
this diagram may help you with your problem - http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif |
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#14 |
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nice diagram...but his car is an 8 from 4 conversion, so hes looking at 4 cyl wiring which was different from the 8
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#15 | |
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this is where i become useless, as i have no experience with conversion wiring/methods...but i'll exit with this: it seems as though you are getting a VREF Signal (4-6vdc) rather than the VBATT (12vdc). i suspect the problem is FP wiring from the wrong ECM pin...but again, i know nothing about conversions good luck
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#16 |
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Voltages
I have 12V at pin 1 of ECC
Now relay at ECC: Voltages with relay connected: all 12V except black/green has 0V Voltages with relay not connected: Black/Orange 12V Red 4 V Orange/Black 4 V Black/Green 0V Red/Green 12V
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#17 |
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ok...12 volts at pin 1 means fusible link is good.
blk/grn is your ground so it should read 0 vlts. ok...blk/orange is fusible link, constant 12. RED is 12 volts out of relay to inertia switch. Orange/blk...? Black/Green is ground for coil of the relay. Red/Green is switched 12 vlts for the coil of the relay. Now, you sure the Orange/blk isnt blk orange? The book shows Blk/Orange off of the fusible link to the ecc relay. A second Blk/Orange comes off this terminal and goes to the ecc at pin 1. I say its all ok. now go to the fuel pump relay and inertia switch.... the red coming off of the ecc relay goes to the inertia switch and then comes out as red/blk and goes to the coil side of fuel pump relay. There is a blk/orange at the fuel pump relay which is constant 12 vlts. Tan/Lt Grn at relay is the ground side of the relay coil and goes to the ecc on pin 22. Pink/Blk is power going to fuel pump when relay is activated. When you are for sure you found fuel pump relay, first turn key on and plug relay in enough to make contact and then release and see if it clicks. if it does...power to pump is problem. if not relay is bad or then need to ck power there.
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#18 |
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latest on wiring
Relay is under seat because pink wire from fuel pump goes to this relay:
Here is what I found with relay unplugged: Pink wire going to fuel pump has 5 V, weird??? Orange Blue has 12V Tan/Green has 6V Red/black has 3V I got a new relay, but it still doesn't work The relay I got has 5 terminals, the original has 4, Autozone guy said that was ok...... Any help appreciated
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#19 |
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okay...go back to inertia switch, wire going in is red...has 12v? it should with key on. your red/blk at inertia switch, should have 12v with key on. if not...switch is bad. if you do, and you only have the 3v at the relay...trace the wiring back to inertia switch...wire either shorting or more than likely, a connector behind one of the kickpanels is coroded.
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#20 |
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inertia switch
Inertia switch is ok, ohms less than 5
6V at the inerta switch :-(
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