Another header flange question

nolife · October 28th, 2007, 09:53 PM

I did not want to hijack the previous header question asked earlier today because my problem is a little different.

When taking off my H pipe, one of the studs broke off of the flange on my BBK shorty header. I have not started beating on it yet because I do not want to damage the header flange but is there a "best practice" of removing a broken stud? I do not have any threads left on it either so I can not put a nut on it to prevent the end from mushrooming while I beat on it. I've removed wheel studs before without problems but there is more room and the axle can take a little more abuse then I believe the header flange can.

My plan is to keep spraying it with WD-40 and I will try to get my Dremel in there and clean up any rust to "thin up" the remaining part of the stud then start hitting it. If that does not work, I guess I'll have to remove the header and drill it out from the other side. Anyone have a source for these studs or should I just go with stainless bolts.

A second question. Will the passenger side engine mount physically be able to be removed out the front or should I take off the starter and push it out the back?

Thanks for any advice.

Twist it up · October 28th, 2007, 10:35 PM

take it off before you fuc

it up! the make stud removers for just that problem.

nolife · October 28th, 2007, 11:18 PM

All of the stud pullers I've seen are for threaded studs, these are press in friction type. Is there a remover for those?

jam77 · October 29th, 2007, 01:58 AM

yeah they make pullers for that. When i worked at my dads machine shop he had one for pulling the pressed in studs out of small block chevy heads so we could put screw in studs in.

408gt91 · October 29th, 2007, 08:03 PM

Tac weld a big skrewdriver to it.

nolife · October 29th, 2007, 10:36 PM

I called BBK and got a part number for a stud kit and also was told that they are screw in studs, not press in. That takes away the thought of beating them out and if I drill them, using another stud is not an option unless I happen to drill perfectly straight and avoid all of the socket threads.
I'm going to use a stud extrator on the broken one first and if it seems easy enough, I may or may not try it on the non broken studs as well in an attempt to replace them all. It is a gamble though as my stud extractor is thread destructive and once I put it on one of the non broken studs, there is no turning back.
I'm doing everything I can to avoid taking the headers off and since they are in good shape, I do not want to damage them either.

October 28th, 2007, 09:53 PM	#1
nolife Hardcore Enthusiast 91GT, 88GT, 02GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 2,878 Blog Entries: 3 iTrader: 0 reviews	Another header flange question I did not want to hijack the previous header question asked earlier today because my problem is a little different. When taking off my H pipe, one of the studs broke off of the flange on my BBK shorty header. I have not started beating on it yet because I do not want to damage the header flange but is there a "best practice" of removing a broken stud? I do not have any threads left on it either so I can not put a nut on it to prevent the end from mushrooming while I beat on it. I've removed wheel studs before without problems but there is more room and the axle can take a little more abuse then I believe the header flange can. My plan is to keep spraying it with WD-40 and I will try to get my Dremel in there and clean up any rust to "thin up" the remaining part of the stud then start hitting it. If that does not work, I guess I'll have to remove the header and drill it out from the other side. Anyone have a source for these studs or should I just go with stainless bolts. A second question. Will the passenger side engine mount physically be able to be removed out the front or should I take off the starter and push it out the back? Thanks for any advice. __________________

October 28th, 2007, 10:35 PM	#2
Twist it up Regular 1990 hatchback lx Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: north alabama Posts: 227 iTrader: 0 reviews	take it off before you fuc it up! the make stud removers for just that problem. __________________ www.hsvracing.com

October 28th, 2007, 11:18 PM	#3
nolife Hardcore Enthusiast 91GT, 88GT, 02GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 2,878 Blog Entries: 3 iTrader: 0 reviews	All of the stud pullers I've seen are for threaded studs, these are press in friction type. Is there a remover for those? __________________

October 29th, 2007, 01:58 AM	#4
jam77 Enthusiast 1987 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: IL Posts: 685 iTrader: 0 reviews	Another header flange question yeah they make pullers for that. When i worked at my dads machine shop he had one for pulling the pressed in studs out of small block chevy heads so we could put screw in studs in. __________________ 87 GT, typhoon upper and lower,70mm tb, 90mm maf, bbk shorties, bbk x-pipe, flowmaster cat back, 3:73 gear, pro 5.0 shifter, novi blower,afm power pipe, load IO, Trick Flow heads, Anderson B-31 cam, Anderson PMS, 42 lb injectors, t-rex fuel pump.

October 29th, 2007, 08:03 PM	#5
408gt91 Regular Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: ya mudda's house Posts: 204 iTrader: 0 reviews	Tac weld a big skrewdriver to it. __________________ 408stroker/tf track heats/scat crank/h beams/srs fordged/351sportsman block/trick flow rrkrs/msd dist/edelbrock victor5.8intake/aeromotive fuel system/accufab 80mmtb/pro-m80mm,maf etc.

October 29th, 2007, 10:36 PM	#6
nolife Hardcore Enthusiast 91GT, 88GT, 02GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 2,878 Blog Entries: 3 iTrader: 0 reviews	I called BBK and got a part number for a stud kit and also was told that they are screw in studs, not press in. That takes away the thought of beating them out and if I drill them, using another stud is not an option unless I happen to drill perfectly straight and avoid all of the socket threads. I'm going to use a stud extrator on the broken one first and if it seems easy enough, I may or may not try it on the non broken studs as well in an attempt to replace them all. It is a gamble though as my stud extractor is thread destructive and once I put it on one of the non broken studs, there is no turning back. I'm doing everything I can to avoid taking the headers off and since they are in good shape, I do not want to damage them either. __________________

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