[89LX347]

i am getting an anderson custom cam for my car this christmas and i was needing some advice/tips during installation and use

1.do you reccomend taking the heads off/fully dissassemble them?
2.pretty strait foward process on teardown taking out and putting cam in?
3.best lubrcation oil for cam and what oil to use for start up and running and how long to run that oil
4.reccomend changing valve springs/pushrods/lifters while im there?

thanks in advance and if theres anything else you could add i appreciate it

[nba1341]

4. yes :wink

[White Thunder]

you picked the right one to ask...i would like to hear how the cam treats ya....

[1slo5.0]

1. You will need valve springs to match the cam. You can change the springs on the car or off the car. It can be tricky changing the springs with the heads still on the car. As far as swapping cams though, the heads can being on or off the car won't make a difference either way.
2. Cam changes are pretty simple. The main thing is to double check your timing marks. Once you put that timing cover and balancer back on its a real bitch to take it all apart and check timing marks if you are unsure. Double check before reassembly.
3. Regular motor oil for roller cams. There isn't a major break in cycle like there is with flat tappet cams.
4. You will need to change valve springs to match the cam. The lifters will probably be ok. Hardened or chromoly pushrods would be nice. If you have aftermarket heads with guideplates hardened or chromoly pushrods will be a must.

[TENGRAM]

some people install cams "dot to dot" but depending on the parts used this can be off +/- 4*. for this reason you should degree the cam. check the info here: http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.php

also, at the very minimum you should change valvesprings (stock ones are inadequate for even a stock cam + depending on the cam specs they may bind, which equals broken parts) and different length pushrods. lifters are highly recommended while you are in there.

[89LX347]

when your talking about timing marks are you talking about putting the balancer on the exact same as it was ?and also the rotor direction on the distributor?how will i know the perfect lash to put the springs at? and ive heard that you adjust them by bumping the starter and when you get them all adjusted start the car let it run and then readjust them and re torque the head bolts

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 89LX347 when your talking about timing marks are you talking about putting the balancer on the exact same as it was ?and also the rotor direction on the distributor?how will i know the perfect lash to put the springs at? and ive heard that you adjust them by bumping the starter and when you get them all adjusted start the car let it run and then readjust them and re torque the head bolts

Timing marks on the crank and cam gear of the timing chain set.

Are you running a hydraulic or solid cam? Hydraulic cams are zero lash. Solid cams have the recommended lash on the cam card.

[89LX347]

oh ok..
i am running a hydraulic cam

[Overkill]

If you have the time and the heads have any mileage on them I would pull them, and have a good three angle valve job done, change out the springs and pushrods as Darrell recommends, check the guides and all that stuff. I personally would also recommend new retainers. Finally, I would do a piston to valve clearance check. Rick Anderson knows his stuff and 99.9% guaranteed if he says the valves will clear, they will clear. But if it's my motor, I'm checking the clearance anyway. Very cheap insurance.

[89LX347]

actually less than a year ago i had my heads resurfaced,vatted, replace seals and guides if neccesary and alll that stuff

[TENGRAM]

definately check PTV clearance, ESPECIALLY if you don't take the time to degree the cam. if AFM says that cam will clear he means it will clear if the valve events are timed right. if you don't degree the cam the events could be off enough to do damage.