[gotboost562]

I am looking at doing a disc brake conversion to the back of my 93 LX. I have seen kits that come with a new master cylinder and others that don't. Is the master cylinder really necessary? Upon asking the question to one company that doesn't include it, this was their response:

Most of the time people use the stock MC. The factory distribution block must be gutted but that is all most do. If you plan to road race the car etc. then a better MC would be needed.

This would be on a daily driver that may see occasional trips to the drag strip. I also noticed some kits utilize hard line to connect to the caliper and others use a soft line. What is the opinion on that? I thought the caliper needed the soft line to allow the movement needed when the pad wears. What is the best kit for the money?

[Twist it up]

change the distribution block to an adjustable one, use steel braided lines not hard lines, the rubber lines expand under braking, steel braided lines flex and don't swell up.

[Haggis13]

I bought a MC from a 95 Mustang when I did my rear discs. It's an easy swap and all you need is a 3-2 converter. Pedal feel is stiff, but the brakes work way better than stock.

[gotboost562]

Originally Posted by Haggis13 I bought a MC from a 95 Mustang when I did my rear discs. It's an easy swap and all you need is a 3-2 converter. Pedal feel is stiff, but the brakes work way better than stock.

What rear kit did you use? Or did you piece it together?

[White Thunder]

these will work...if you use the stock on big brakes it doesn't work well..

Master Cylinder
'94-98 V6/GT
'99 V6

cobra to but your gonna have a prob finding them

[gotboost562]

Originally Posted by White Thunder these will work...if you use the stock on big brakes it doesn't work well.. Master Cylinder '94-98 V6/GT '99 V6 cobra to but your gonna have a prob finding them

I meant for the brakes, not the mc. Thanks.

[Evil Intent]

When i swapped out my rear brakes (i swapped out the entire rear end) i took the master cylinder and Proportioning Valve from the 95 GT that the rest of the parts came from...

the problem i encountered was a mushy brake pedal. I cured this by buying a Brake Booster for the 1993 Cobra R ( $100 at Autozone). Mustangs are notorious for not stopping, why half-**s the best chance you have to avoid ANYTHING?

My current setup has a brake booster from a 1993 Cobra R and a master cylinder from a 1995 Cobra R. I also have an adjustable Wilwood Proportioning Valve. I would do this at the very least (about $300 total for all three). I also upgraded to the 13" rotors and calipers from the 1995 Cobra R and the 11.65" rear rotors from the 1995 Cobra R. I would not change this setup for the world (unless I was going bigger). If you keep the stock size brakes from the SN-95 cars then you can run 16" wheels, if you go bigger in the front, 17" wheels are needed to clear 13" rotors, and 18" wheels are needed to clear 14" rotors... in the end it is up to you, but why skimp on the safety? let me know if you have any other questions...

Peter

[blackcherry90]

i did a 5 lug conversion on my 90 used the stock rear end housing with 97 axles and brake hardware cheap to do and works well still using the stock booster got proportioning valve out of sn95 without antilock this will give you four places to run lines only had to do slight work to brake lines going to back of car cheap way to do it if that's what your looking for and pretty easy to do the only downfall is those axles have a shoulder before the flange for the antilock gear it pushes axles out from rear end 3/4 of an inch north race cars makes a flange adapter to run ranger axles and use the sn95 brake hardware

[Overkill]

I did the Motorsport Cobra brake kit (M-2300 ?)on my '86 GT. It stops now. It comes with a new Cobra R M/C and all the brake lines, calipers, rotors, parking brake cables Wilwood proportioning valve and everything needed. Granted I got mine a few years ago when it was a thousand dollars cheaper than it is now, but I gotta say, it is one slick setup and it works.

The only thing. The instructions said "minor relieving of the inner fender may be required for installation of the master cylinder and booster." Minor relieving, my ass! An hour and a half with a twelve pound sledge hammer is more like it. Other than that it's pretty much a piece of cake to install, it really stops my GT - NOW! It looks pretty cool, too.

I like to use kits and matched parts for this kind of thing mainly because they are designed to work properly together. I know you can get a M/C from this, calipers from that, and rotors from something else and save some bucks, but unless you are an automotive designer or a real die-hard, you can make life miserable for yourself if something doesn't work right. Bad thing to find out hitting the off-ramp a little too fast and seeing heavy traffic ahead that the line size isn't compatable with the M/C and caliper combo you just installed at high pedal pressure. Brakes are not something I want to cut corners on. Last thing in the world I want is to slam on the pedal at slightly over the national speed limit and have them start to fade with 30 mph to go. That sucks. It can also kill.