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Discussing Any Tips To Welding In A New Floorpan? in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. I have no driver side floor, and the pass side is probably pretty bad, too. ...

       

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Old September 6th, 2006, 01:00 PM   #1
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Any Tips To Welding In A New Floorpan?


I have no driver side floor, and the pass side is probably pretty bad, too.

I know where the good metal starts, but has anyone done this and documented it?

Looking for tips, and if noone has took pics and documented it, I will be the guinea pig and get it done...

Is there an aftermarket for floorpans or do I have to go get it from a junkyard? I looked and found nothing so far on the net....

Any help is very much appreciated in this, Ive never had to weld in a floorpan before now, was always lucky I guess....lol


Ill post a pic tonight, Cant get to the car right now....
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Old September 6th, 2006, 02:18 PM   #2
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Any Mustang parts supplier carries sheet metal. National Parts Depot, Dallas Mustang, etc. They have full floors or each side. I found a wealth of info on these installs just do some searching. I will check to see if I still have any of the links and post them later if you don't find any.
 
Old September 6th, 2006, 02:45 PM   #3
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THANKS!

I found the floor pans at DALLASMUSTANG, and they are alot cheaper than I thought they would be, welding them in is no problem, but if there are any tips out there to share, let me know.

This is looking better at every turn.

Thanks again
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Old September 6th, 2006, 04:22 PM   #4
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Here are a few links I had bookmarked:

http://www.mustang123.com/databases.asp

Couple of good ones on classics - lots of pics
http://bellsouthpwp.net/n/y/nylhtak/index.html


http://eolson1111.tripod.com/mustang2/id21.html
 
Old September 6th, 2006, 06:16 PM   #5
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When I think of rusty floor pan, I think of a Classic.
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Old September 6th, 2006, 06:45 PM   #6
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A good flanging tool, spot welds or rivets and seam sealer will do the trick. I'd also recommend making a "test panel" from a sheet of posterboard so you don't ruin the new panel by cutting it wrong
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Old September 6th, 2006, 09:19 PM   #7
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just a thought but have you talked to a body shop, i know alot use a glue to replace body panels. might be a huge time saver?
 
Old September 7th, 2006, 06:50 AM   #8
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I can see parts falling off when he goes 120 hahhaha
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Old September 7th, 2006, 07:14 AM   #9
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tgunner: Good idea, I will get some more info on that.

Horshoeing:

lol I can see the same thing.
When I sat in the seat if fell through and the carpet was the only thing holding me off the ground. it sat withno drivers window forGod knows how long before I got ahold of it.

Twiast 2 Go:

Do I want to put the new panel on the top or bottom of the old floor? I would say top, but I want to do this right so I am not afraid to ask questions.

Thanks for the tips, yall, keep 'em coming
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Old September 7th, 2006, 08:40 AM   #10
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I'd do the top. It probably don't matter but it might be easier to do that way.
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Old September 7th, 2006, 10:00 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Twist 2 Go
I'd do the top. It probably don't matter but it might be easier to do that way.
I'd have to agree, put the new metal on top. I know you already found sheet metal but take a look at CJPony Parts. They have sheetmetal 15% off on Mondays if ordered online. I haven't seen it mentioned before but if you can get your hands on a plasma cutter it will make life a hell of lot easier.
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Old September 7th, 2006, 11:40 AM   #12
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Roger that on the plasma cutter, but I am stuck with a reciprocating saw and a pnumatic cuttoff wheel

Top it is, I figured so, but always good to ask.

I will check out CJPony parts, might get a deal there.

Thanks yall, Keep em coming

I promise pics tonight, I just got the dash and everything else out today, so I can survey the damage. Not too bad so far.
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Old September 7th, 2006, 01:02 PM   #13
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The sawzall will do the job just fine and no chance of starting a fire. Leave a half inch overlap and clean the metal of all paint, glue and rust. Then tack weld about every inch all the way around. After tacking go back and weld between tacks until you have a solid weld. Treat the bare metal with metal conditioner before painting. Go underneath the car after all of this and seal the seam from the bottom side with a non hardening seam sealer. Then paint and undercoat.
Be sure to cut back to good solid metal.
Have a fire extinguisher handy while welding
 
Old September 7th, 2006, 01:42 PM   #14
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OK, Here's the pics:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_0519web_199.jpg (93.2 KB, 143 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0510web_453.jpg (95.7 KB, 142 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0509web_188.jpg (97.2 KB, 142 views)
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Old September 7th, 2006, 01:46 PM   #15
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some more pics:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_0513web_718.jpg (94.7 KB, 142 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0512web_158.jpg (99.7 KB, 142 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0517web_237.jpg (105.3 KB, 142 views)
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Old September 7th, 2006, 01:49 PM   #16
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OK last pictures, lots of dirt, but no rust except on the floor pans...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_0518web_433.jpg (85.6 KB, 141 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0520web_918.jpg (97.8 KB, 140 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0511web_121.jpg (108.7 KB, 141 views)
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Old September 7th, 2006, 01:57 PM   #17
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Not bad for 500 bucks....
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Old September 7th, 2006, 02:10 PM   #18
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looks like you got alot of work ahead of you but a good looking project car. You going to weld up all the little holes in the engine bay? Several local guys have done that on their coupes and they looked awesome when completed. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

What engine combo you going to put there?
 
Old September 7th, 2006, 03:10 PM   #19
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I hadnt thought about that, good idea!

That would look tons better when done.

It took me about 8 hours so far. I go to Iraq in OCT for 4 months and it will set ide while Im gone, but when I get back Ill have some change to spend

Hopefully I can get rid of the rust and maybe get the floor fixed before I go.

Thanks!
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Old September 8th, 2006, 08:23 AM   #20
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Thanks STANGINFECTION! Thats the stuff I was looking for!

Gracias amigo.
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