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Old September 6th, 2006, 03:59 PM   #1
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Need Suggestion On What Type Of Rods And Pistons


so i have a ? for any one who has built a motor? im rebuilding a 5.0 motor for reliabilty as far as daily driver and applying a kenny bell supercharger. what brand would yall recommend on rods and pistons. of course they are going to forged for long life so please let me kno.. a couple of ideas been going through my head of Eagle, and ive been hearing about skat ? please let me kno?
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Old September 6th, 2006, 06:10 PM   #2
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Stock rods and the cheapest forged pistons you can find. In a mild performance application you don't need to get crazy with high dollar parts. The stock rods and crank will out last the factory block. Stock replacement pistons will work fine too. A friend of mine is going low 10s and making 580 hp at the wheels with a stock 5 liter short block.
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Old September 7th, 2006, 11:09 AM   #3
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i am personally attatched to JE rods and pistons
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Old September 7th, 2006, 02:32 PM   #4
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Darrel, I thought the stock 5.0 block could only safely hold about 500 horse? I'm not doubting you at all, just wondering what he used to get this much without failure. Kyle
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Old September 7th, 2006, 11:32 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by KJeezy
Darrel, I thought the stock 5.0 block could only safely hold about 500 horse? I'm not doubting you at all, just wondering what he used to get this much without failure. Kyle
Failure is a matter of time on any stock 5.0 block over 500 hp. Could be a week could be a year but rest assured it will happin.

Like Darrel said most stock 5.0 parts will out last the block. You want to make any real power invest in a real block first.
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Old September 8th, 2006, 06:33 AM   #6
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Keith Black forged pistons with your stock forged I-beam con rods are the most economical yet reliable options you can have as long as you wont rev your engine much beyond the redline 6k rpm..

do not forget to use new HP Clevite 77 or equivalent rod & main bearings, and do not forget to change the con rod bolts to ARP wave-loc. Use Fel-Pro or a quality brand head & intake gaskets.

I'm assuming your Kenne Bell will only compress the air 6 psi or 9 psi max
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Old September 8th, 2006, 11:37 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by HORSMEN1995
i am personally attatched to JE rods and pistons
JE makes rods???


Originally Posted by KJeezy
Darrel, I thought the stock 5.0 block could only safely hold about 500 horse? I'm not doubting you at all, just wondering what he used to get this much without failure. Kyle
Some 5 liters only handle a handfull of 350 hp passes and blow up. Its hit or miss. Mark has been running his motor for years and has hundreds of passes on it. He spins it to 7000rpm too. Stock pistons, stock rods, stock crank and stock block. Either way, if you plan on any more than 450-500hp you need an aftermarket block. The crank and rods will always outlast the production 5 liter block. Anybody that spends money on aftermarket pistons, rods and/or crank for a production 5 liter block is money wasting fool unless a piston, rod or crank was damaged.
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Old September 8th, 2006, 02:02 PM   #8
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well its mainley gonna be a daily driver and i was going to order 302
block from summit and was lookin for 450-500 and wanted the best setup with no complications thats witht the supercharger. and i know forged products will help in life but it seems like stock appications are better than the block. so what type of block should i get?
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Old September 8th, 2006, 02:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Darrell
Stock rods and the cheapest forged pistons you can find. In a mild performance application you don't need to get crazy with high dollar parts. The stock rods and crank will out last the factory block. Stock replacement pistons will work fine too. A friend of mine is going low 10s and making 580 hp at the wheels with a stock 5 liter short block.
so what would be the best thing for me to do cause im only lookin for 450-500 hp with s/c
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Old September 8th, 2006, 06:12 PM   #10
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Dart or World Products
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Old September 8th, 2006, 06:56 PM   #11
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Thanks Darrell..

I checked.. they are different, compared to production blocks..

http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/087110.htm
http://www.dartheads.com/fordiron.aspx

They're both 4 bolts mains
Man'o'War has one piece rear main seal
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Old September 8th, 2006, 07:01 PM   #12
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what the hell...

a production Toyota Supra 6 cylinder block can withstand as high as 800 horsepower no sweat

while I can't go more than 500 on a Ford V8 small block Windsor?!
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Old February 12th, 2008, 01:56 AM   #13
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on an inline motor most of the force goes to the mains,
on a V style engine the middle of the engine pulls its self apart because the pistons are going in different directions. 4 bolt mains along with a good main girdle like the ones from dss racing will help reduce the risk of breaking your block also if you can find a Mexico block they are a little tougher because of the metals i think it is because of the higher nickle content

i have heard numbers of 600 on these blocks but i would go with 500 and have her last a little longer then a north American block.
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Old February 12th, 2008, 02:01 AM   #14
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this is a really old thread lol just about a few years but this might help someone i found it in my list of over 200 bookmarks....
How to Identify a Mexican Block...
Old West Racing
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Old February 12th, 2008, 10:14 AM   #15
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wow i didnt even realize how old the thread was until you said something.......how do people even find these
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Old February 12th, 2008, 01:27 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 94stang View Post
on an inline motor most of the force goes to the mains,
on a V style engine the middle of the engine pulls its self apart because the pistons are going in different directions. 4 bolt mains along with a good main girdle like the ones from dss racing will help reduce the risk of breaking your block also if you can find a Mexico block they are a little tougher because of the metals i think it is because of the higher nickle content

i have heard numbers of 600 on these blocks but i would go with 500 and have her last a little longer then a north American block.
A main girdle isnt going to protect the block from its inevitable failure. It wont even prolong it. If the block is going to split, its going to split with, or without the girdle. The only thing the girdle is going to do is keep everything neatly tied together when it breaks.

Why are you guys digging up old ass threads from 05-06???
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Old February 12th, 2008, 01:38 PM   #17
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i was drunk and board did a google search for something way diff and found it thought what the hell im sorry lol i understand it just holds it together but if you are running that through a stock block i think it is a must. but its the builders/owners choice
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Old February 12th, 2008, 01:53 PM   #18
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Drunk and bored... your not married i assume?

I can see a main girdle helping to stabilize the mains in high rpm situations, but thats about it. I certianly wouldnt buy one for the "added block integrity" factor. Thats just hogwash.
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Old February 12th, 2008, 02:26 PM   #19
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im 18 and lovin it but i think your right i guess when i was looking at building i was going to rev to 6500-7000rpm so i bet that why i was told to run it...and i think thes thread should now be marked dead because i need info on my newest question and this is blocking up great minds like yours lol
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