[redlinetoys]

We have a 94 Mustang 5.0 with a leaky oil pan. Not only does it appear to be leaking from the overall seal area, but it looks like the pan has become rusty enough to possibly have pinhole leaking through the pan!

The car also needs a clutch, so we will be lifting it soon to pull the trans and figured that would be the right time to try and sneak a Felpro one piece gasket in place, hopefully by just lifting the engine an inch or two. Any experience on this??

Also, Is there a cheap new replacement pan available or is this something that is available as a used part?? I am not familiar with availability of Ford parts so I don't even know what to do... I am definitely not paying the asking price at the Ford dealership (Why do they price themselves out of the market when they could just as easily have a mass captive audience if they had decent pricing...)

Thanks for any help. Bob

[mdvaldosta]

You should be able to find them used pretty cheap.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by redlinetoys We have a 94 Mustang 5.0 with a leaky oil pan. Not only does it appear to be leaking from the overall seal area, but it looks like the pan has become rusty enough to possibly have pinhole leaking through the pan! The car also needs a clutch, so we will be lifting it soon to pull the trans and figured that would be the right time to try and sneak a Felpro one piece gasket in place, hopefully by just lifting the engine an inch or two. Any experience on this?? Also, Is there a cheap new replacement pan available or is this something that is available as a used part?? I am not familiar with availability of Ford parts so I don't even know what to do... I am definitely not paying the asking price at the Ford dealership (Why do they price themselves out of the market when they could just as easily have a mass captive audience if they had decent pricing...) Thanks for any help. Bob

+1. went to the dealer today to get 2 hoses and it cost me over $50.00

30.00 for 1 and 20 for the other + tax.

i almost had a stroke.

try summit. they have there own brand that is made by manufactures you know most likely. bought a summit fuel pump and had no problems. i think there made by Walbro.

[redlinetoys]

So, are there wrecking yards or specialists that typically have used Mustangs that might sell a used pan? I would think the pan would typically go with the engine as salvage. I need a buddy who thinks he needed a 7 quart racing pan and his old pan is just getting dusty on the shelf. Ha!

I guess the other option is to pull the pan and try to clean it up and see how much metal is left...

I am not sure I can even get the pan out by just lifting the engine a few inches. I am hoping I can just unbolt one mount or maybe both and just lift it up slightly. Haven't really thought about how I will do that yet, but I suppose with a engine crane and a couple of front/rear lift points on the engine.


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[REBELPONY]

Most reputable salvage yards will have a pile or room full of individual engine parts. Though it may be hard to find a Mustang pan in there, I have bought several used pans for several vehicles in tha past, and as long as you inspect it welland make sure youre not trading one POS for another, youre good.

I would check JEGS, SUMMIT, your local Hot Rod Shop, etc...

I have bought oil pans from Jegs before, and they can sometimes beat the Summit price.....

Bottom line: a new one is best, but there are ways around it. and the Fel Pro Permaseal Gasket is DEFINATELY the way to go

[FaStStAnG5-0]

i have to do the same thing this weekend.. it's gonna be a bitch gettting that pan out from under there... they shoulda made it a 2 piece! haha

[redlinetoys]

I will look forward to hearing how your weekend went! Please blaze the trail for me and let me know what NOT to do! Seriously, good luck, hope it goes well.

I checked with my local speed shop, summit, jegs, etc. No one really has a cheapo tin replacement pan. At least not by my definition. I am used to being able to buy a new or used small block chev pan for $40! From what I can tell, the 302 pan might be the same for a number of cars though, so perhaps a wrecking yard will have one. I will have to try some research on that.

Ford is a new adventure for us. We had all GM until our recent conversion. We now have my wifes 06 GT and the sons 94 GT. Nice cars! Just a new learning experience...

http://public.fotki.com/redlinetoys/

[REBELPONY]

I hear ya there. Everything on a Ford will just about double the price for the same thing on a Chevy/GM.

Ive built both and the Chevy/GM's are ALWAYS cheaper, sometimes by half.

[83 5.0]

I've never seen the pan on anything later than a 93, but you may need the following if your year of engine has the earlier features.

Just make sure your pan type is a rear sump, some 302's are front. And you need the 2 drain holes for oil changes. Some pans don't have the low oil switch. I don't know but for all the work I would go new.

I've seen a 91 F150 302 and a 87 Marquis pans rust through.

Definitely buy good gaskets or you will be back to where you started with leaks.

[redlinetoys]

It looks like I can buy a new one on ebay for about $60. That is pretty good for a new one if it is a decent stamping... It has both front and rear oil drain plugs and the deeper sump is at the right end. That is probably what I will do. I will have to double check the oil switch sender, but will likely just buy the pan with the hole in it and will fill it if necessary. I believe that Ford actually makes a kit for this, but I would imagine there are several ways to do it.

I bought a Felpro $30 one piece rubber (silicone?) gasket. The only thing I do not like about it is that is says to install it dry. I would feel a lot more comfortable with at least a very thin skin of RTV on both sides of the gasket. Will have to think that one over!

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[Zak]

If you want stock replacement 5-Quarts oil pan kit (comes with pick-up tube and dipstick), you can check with Jegs for $92 (I checked Summit's online catalog but they don't seem to have it anymore).. go to Jegs.com and use this part number to search:
397-M-6675-A50

If you want performance pans, you can check Kevko 9-Quarts for $140 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...04&CtgID=12399

There's 7-Quarts Moroso 20511 for $200 at Summit, also Milodon & Canton, but the prices are a bit higher.. remember that you need to buy a rear sump oil pan..



I haven't changed the rear main seal while the motor is in place.. but I guess you need to remove the bellhousing, flywheel/flexplate and even the engine block plate in order to access it with a seal puller.. you dont need RTV sealant to install the new piece, just oil the lips with assembly lube so it wont burn at start-up.

[REBELPONY]

NO!! Dont silicone the Permaseal gasket! It wont work, and the RTV eats it and it will deteriate and be worthless.

I have seen this first hand (eh-hem) and it is no good. Install it dry and use the little clips they give you to line it up, it really helps.

Make sure all of the rtv is gone from the engine too.

The gasket makes the seal because it is made to squash into the cracks and imperfections of the block and oilpan, it doesnt need silicone. The aluminum inserts keep you from overtightening it [unless you have a case of the gorilla arm and strip your bolts(eh-hem)]

Do it like the package says, Ive been using these gaskets since they came out, installed DOZENS and never had a leak from NOT ONE of them, except in the case of a crappy pan, which I replaced and re-used the same gasket and no leaks. I swear by those things.

[88BlueGT]

I am not positive how the oil pan is positioned on the SN-95 but I know with a fox body with a little tricks you can get the pan out with only jacking up the motor a few inches. I am not exactally positive about your car though, it should be pretty much the same setup.

[redlinetoys]

Hey, I really, really appreciate the comments. I have one of the Felpro 1 piece gaskets on my chev but it was installed by the race shop that did my short block. Good to hear that you have had very good success installing them dry. Also good to hear the other comments.

On our 55 Chev, we would just tear into it and have it done in a few hours. I am just a little more apprehensive on this newer unknown (to me anyway) model!

I appreciate the links to the oil pans as well. After I found the one on ebay for about $60 shipped (just a stock or chrome factory replacement oil pan), I am pretty sure I will pick one of those up. We really don't have a need for anything other than stock.

We may go ahead and put in a high volume Mellings pump at the same time though.

Any more thoughts, just keep em coming!

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[redlinetoys]

Thought I would provide an update...

We bought a pan on ebay for less than $60. Fit like a glove. Used a Felpro one piece silicone gasket. Very nice part. Went ahead and put in a new Melling pump while we were there.

I bought a high volume pump which would have required beating the oil pan some, but after surveying the situation, decided not to beat the hell out of a perfectly new oil pan, so we used a std Melling pump.

After pulling the trans, bellhousing and starter (clutch replacement at the same time), we were able to unbolt the engine and lift it about 5-6 inches to get the oil pan out. The pump must be unbolted and brought out with the pan. It is said that you can get by with only raising the engine about 2 inches if you unbolt the steering rack and pull it forward, but a rusted tight bolt prevented that. It was unnecessary if you lifted the engine high enough and there was nothing to prevent that other than just watching to make sure lines were ok... Besides, it is a LOT easier to get the oil pump out and back in with the engine higher in the air...

We put in a new King Cobra clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and a roller pilot bearing. Dealing with the self adjusting clutch mechanism under the dash is a pain in the #$%&!!! We ended up taking the drivers seat out which didn't help much.

While we were under there, we decided to address some floor pan surface rust starting to show up. We wire brushed and scraped the rust and custom blended some Rustoleum to match the original pea green sealer. (Used 3 quarts of flat white Rustoleum and a splash of gloss black and gloss yellow to get a near exact match...) The floor was coated from the front frame to the rear suspension mounts and looks REALLY nice. We also used spray on undercoating around the rear wheel wells, rear end area and gas tank area. Should hold up well now and looks good.

It sure is nice to look up and see zero oil dripping and everything is nice and clean!!!!!!

Just as a heads up: This is a fairly difficult job if you do not have a reasonably extensive set of tools with various swivels, extensions, 6 and 12 point shallow and deep sockets, etc.

Anyway, we got it done and I don't feel like working on it again for awhile!!

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