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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
94 GT
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91 Gear Swap Help
putting in a new set of 3.73's in the rear end. i have never done a gear job before, as far as i know there are 2 clips that hold the axles inside the gears, i have to pull those c clips and slide the axles out 2 get the gears off???
if im wrong what else am i missing. |
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#2 |
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any help is appreciated
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#3 |
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Regular
90&94 GTs; 79&91 Broncos
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Yep-you need to pull the cover off, pull the center pin out of the diff, push in the axles, remove the c-clips, then remove the axles. That is THE easy part to a gear swap.
Dig around in a shop manual and here Randy's Ring & Pinion for a while and get spun up on what all is involved in doing gears, not to mention the tools you will need access to. After you do some research I'll be happy to answer some questions. I'm not an expert by any means, but I have done a few gear swaps. Oh yeah, I highly reccomend Yukon gears and installation kits--I feel the kits are better than Ford kits because of their Super Shims (you'll see it on the website I linked to). |
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#4 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1988 lx
9.68@142
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badshoeproductions.com get the video
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#5 |
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i have been trying to find the instructions to doing it in my haynes book but cant seem to find it, what might the have it listed as?? ring and pinion doesnt seem to show up
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#6 |
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is it nessecary 2 use a installation kit?
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#7 |
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MM Fanatic
1990 LX hatch
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take the cover off, remove crossbolt, take s spring out, push axels in, remove c-clips, remove cross pin, spider gears, and axles.
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#8 |
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1990 LX hatch
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yes. change the seals too.
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#9 |
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i cant use the old shims and seals if they are good?
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#10 |
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1990 LX hatch
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Your seals, if original, should be replaced.
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#11 |
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Ok well which seals are we talking about?
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#12 |
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Regular
1992 LX 5.0
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axle seals
some install kits include them, some don't. we used this one from summit Ratech Deluxe Ring and Pinion Kits: RAT-3008K - summitracing.com |
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#13 | |
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#14 |
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there are 2 seals, one on each axel, plus the pinion seal in the front. While you are at it just check the bearings at the end of the tube. Make sure you buy a new bolt that holds the cross pin in, they are torqued to yeild so do not reuse or snap she goes... If money is an issue and you are just changing gears but not the carrier, use the same shims and check the back lash and drift with a dial gauge, i think there should be about 0.014" play, 0.012" if they are used gears. take your haines book and toss it because it won't help. and DO NOT reuse the crush sleave
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#15 |
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90&94 GTs; 79&91 Broncos
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Did you go to the link for Randy's Ring & Pinion that I gave you in my first post? If not, then here is the direct link for their instructions: http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...lation_Kit.pdf.
It covers a good number of differentials. The 8.8 uses the pinion crush sleeve (which good for only one use), not the shim like some of the others (the manual covers both). Honestly, if you don't have the money right now to get the correct parts to put the gears in I would wait until you do. Also, if you don't have the tools to set up backlash or pinion preload I would consider having it done. I know that it might be more money--but it's cheaper than screwing something up. |
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#16 |
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no i have access to enough tools, and money is not competely a issue but id rather not buy a lot of unnessecarry parts that kits usually come with, ok so i need to pick up a new bolt to hold the crosspin in and a new crush sleave?
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#17 |
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and i was told (could be incorrect info) that i wouldnt even have to disconect the driveline that i would be a able to just take out the old gears and put the new ones in, granted using old shims and equipment
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#18 | |
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I know I've beat this one to death, but go to Randy's Ring & Pinion and have a look around. They have a basic 8.8 install kit with a pinion seal, shims, marking compound, and crush sleeve for $19.25. Their Super Shims can't be beat, in my opinion. Instead of stacking individual shims and trying to get the whole mess straight with enough preload on you carrier these stach in between two solid pieces, so it goes in as a unit. I would also change pinion bearings (and races) as a bare minimum because they're the hardest to change and you'll already be in there. That and who knows if the old one will survive being pressed off and back on the new pinion? A trick I use is that I took the Dremel tool to an old pinion bearing, honed out the inside, and made a "slipper" bearing out of it. This way you don't have to press the bearing off and on when you are trying to get your pinion depth set with your new gears. Then when you get your depth set you press the new bearing on. |
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#19 |
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with the pinion shims, do they have to be an exact fit to the pinion shaft?
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#20 |
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The pinion depth has to be near perfect or you will have whining gears that could break. In order to set the pinion depth, you need to shim it correctly. You cannot just slap the old shim on there and hope it is right, because it will not be. Also you need to shim the carrier in order to set the backlash correctly. Otherwise you will have a shitty gear install that sounds and operates like crap.
No offense intended, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say you don't know much about the rear end and you don't seem particularly interested in doing research since several links with a lot of useful info have been posted and you ignored them. So, your best bet is not to touch the gears and hire someone to do it professionally. You should be able to get it done for $500 including the gears.
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