[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by Devine What kind of CFM are you looking for out of a fan setup? Searching for something now, but most of the slimline stuff is pretty weak.

I figure around 3000 CFM should be good enough for me. With a better radiator I don't think I'll need much. I ran m car without a fan for a week once. It only got hot when it was not moving for more than 30 seconds.

[baine21225]

how much does that stock one push do you know?

[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by baine21225 how much does that stock one push do you know?

not much at idle...

[ryans88gt]

Well, I solved my electrical problems. Turns out I didn't do anything wrong.

Two problems were present.
1) the driverside visor mirror light was stuck on, but I couldn't see it
2) The previous owner cut a positive wire for the glovebox light and just left the hot wiring hanging free with an exposed end and it was grounding out near the computer.

Everything works good now

[baine21225]

get anything running yet?

[ryans88gt]

Nah, still have to upgrade the fuel system and figure out the fan issue on my 89.

The 88 is still in the body shop....gotta get those guys motivated.

[baine21225]

what are you doing for a fuel system?

[ryans88gt]

Right now the plan is to keep my 30 lb injectors and matching C&L. I have a 7:1 FMU with bleeder valve. I'm planning on getting a 255 external pump and at least checking out the internal pump (I don't know what is in there now).

Then I'll see how she goes and get her tuned. If it doesn't work out real well, I'll probably upgrade to 42 lb injectors, get a chip burned, and go with a PMAS MAF.

[baine21225]

good plan, wish i had the money to finance that

[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by Devine What kind of CFM are you looking for out of a fan setup? Searching for something now, but most of the slimline stuff is pretty weak.

Hey, mocked up my radiator and I have slightly less than 3.5 inches. Flexilite has a trim line that is 3.18 inches, Zirgo has a 3.5 inch fan that is thickest in at the motor. The bolt to my tensioner pulley only has about 2.8" clearance. But I think I can mount the fan so it isn't in the way of the tensioner.

I think I am going with the Zirgo and if that doesn't work, I'll sell it and go with the trim line.

[Devine]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt Hey, mocked up my radiator and I have slightly less than 3.5 inches. Flexilite has a trim line that is 3.18 inches, Zirgo has a 3.5 inch fan that is thickest in at the motor. The bolt to my tensioner pulley only has about 2.8" clearance. But I think I can mount the fan so it isn't in the way of the tensioner. I think I am going with the Zirgo and if that doesn't work, I'll sell it and go with the trim line.

I've found several that will fit, but none over 2750cfm, most around 2500cfm.

[ryans88gt]

Yeah, 2500 is probably enough...I guess. I doubt the stock fan flows that much. I ended up buying a 3" thick procomp fan that is rated at 2500 cfm and only costs $30.

The black magic fan only flows like 2800.

I bought a flexalite thermostat/relay for $50.

[ryans88gt]

Well the buildup is coming along smoothly, but it is taking awhile due to working 50 hrs a week and it being cold here still. I did make a lot of progress last weekend pulling the gas tank and rebuilding the Trac-lok...see sticky

I also got a fan that fits finally. It is supposedly a Pro-Comp fan, but I got it off ebay. It is only 3.5 inches thick at the bearing and about 3 inches thick at the motor and supposedly flows 2500 cfm while only drawing 10 amps. Fits perfect anyway.

[ryans88gt]

Also got some new parts. Walbro 255 inline fuel pump, external pump wiring kit from summit, some -6AN line to plumb it, and a ceramic coated MAC diff cover.

[e3sean]

looks good

[ryans88gt]

It's been awhile, but I got a lot done this week.

I finished my rear end rebuild with new brakes, a trac-lok rebuild (see sticky), and a diff cover. Everything else checked out OK.

I finshed a lot of my vacuum/boost hose routing, like to the BOV, MSD-6A, and FMU (pics coming).

Mounted the FMU and hooked up the fuel hose

I finished all the wiring for the external fuel pump (Walbro 255), with a summit relay kit. The kit was nice and came with almost enough wiring. I mounted the relay next to the back shock tower and feed the wiring though the stock fuel pump wiring harness. I didn't like the way the suggested T-rex wiring had the relay mounted next to the spare tire...anyway...
Replaced the feed line with -6AN braided line (which will slip right over the stock nylon tube fittings if you leave the nylon line on the fittings and cut it off at the end of the fitting). Mounted the external pump and plumed the fuel lines. Also replaced the fuel filter while I was back there.

Put the gas tank back up into place and put a few gallons gas in it and pressure tested the system...no leaks...

Finished plumbing my FMU

Bled the whole brake system.

I also bought a set of used inner fender liners b/c removing them was the pervious owner's idea of weight reduction . It has taken a lot of work to undo some of the interesting things this guy decided to remove.

[ryans88gt]

OK so anyone got any suggestions with this. My fuel pressure is 50 PSI with the FMU in place (no boost). When I bypass the FMU the fuel pressure is 40 PSI, but I can't turn it down and it is 40 PSI regardless of if the vacuum is connected or not. I am thinking my return line is now too small with the external pump. I have the stock feed line a 255 intank and 255 external pump. The car is running rich with the FMU in place and it is running OK without it, but the idle is hanging.

[nolife]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt OK so anyone got any suggestions with this. My fuel pressure is 50 PSI with the FMU in place (no boost). When I bypass the FMU the fuel pressure is 40 PSI, but I can't turn it down and it is 40 PSI regardless of if the vacuum is connected or not. I am thinking my return line is now too small with the external pump. I have the stock feed line a 255 intank and 255 external pump. The car is running rich with the FMU in place and it is running OK without it, but the idle is hanging.

This is a LOOOOONG shot but...
What are you using to measure the fuel pressure? I have a Autometer electric gauge with the sender attached to the sensing port on the FRP because my inlet pipe for the SC crowds up the stock fuel rail schrader valve. It reads a constant pressure when first attached and after periods of not driving the car. Maybe my sender is broke, maybe the FPR is not a good place to attach the sender, or maybe I have other problems. Either way, it made my initial testing a big confusing pain in the ass. Make sure what ever you are using is accurately reading the actual pressure. I have a Trex inline with an unknown intank and stock lines.

Could you safely dump the return into a bucket after the FMU for testing or maybe your return line around the FMU are kinked? I know mine hang pretty low underneath to maintain a shallow arc.

I guess I'm just pulling shit of of my ass that you probably already thought of.

[ryans88gt]

I do have an autometer electronic gauge. It is hooked up to a -4AN line coming from the shrader valve. It was working fine before and when I prime the pump by turning the key it goes up to 40 and then back down to 30 PSI and sits there where it should.

Maybe I will try running the car with the return line disconnected, but it seems a little dangerous...running car, 255 lph of gas pouring out??

I'm thinking my FMU might be jacked up, but maybe the pump is just outflowing the return line. My pump is bigger than the vortech T-rex. It is the walbro big pump. Maybe I'll by pass the pump or reduce the voltage to the pump and see if things come back down to normal.