[matt0114]

what would it take, and would it be beneficial, or any point to it?

[mdvaldosta]

beneficial from a cost standpoint, but fuel injection is more tuneable, better drivability, more power, etc.

But, it's alot cheaper to go carb'd if you plan on doing serious mods. Instead of injectors, maf, tb, ecu, tune, etc. all you need is a carb

You'd have to change the tank, or at least the fuel pump and sender, intake, buy a carb, and some misc hardware.

[matt0114]

i was thinkin it'd be cheaper possibly, a guy i work with just bought a camaro (89 w/ a 305) its the same guy i raced go karts with, cant do that anymore due to some medical problems he has been having. anyways, he said it would be too bad to do and i thought i'd ask yall. what kinda fuel pump (mechanical i guess) and sending stuff would be needed. and what would be a good, but inexpensive intake and carb combo. also would the computer need to be removed from the car? and what drivability wouldn't be as good? thanks

[Twist 2 Go]

, I have also heard that a low buck method of doing it, would be to just leave the stock efi pump and lines on the car and use an adjustable return-style regulator and just back the pressure down to 6 to 7-1/2 psi. The excess fuel is then just looped back to the tank.

[IcantDo55]

Originally Posted by Twist 2 Go , I have also heard that a low buck method of doing it, would be to just leave the stock efi pump and lines on the car and use an adjustable return-style regulator and just back the pressure down to 6 to 7-1/2 psi. The excess fuel is then just looped back to the tank.

My 1st N2o kit was a adapted carb kit to fiit a 5.0 using a regulator to knock the pressure from 40 to 7. I went through 3 regulators...they leaked! Not safe. I say don't do it.

[Bossman351]

On the maro he wouldnt even have to change the tank. Just find an old carbed model and change out the tops and sending units. I know its close to the same thing but on the maros the difference between lowering and removing the tank is a lot of disassembly and work. After that just change out the intake and plug or delete any unnessecarry vacuum lines and plugs. If it has the computer controled timing advanc, I would recomend changing the distributor to an older style HEI with vacuum advance.

[matt0114]

so could any of you great folks make a complete list of exactly what i would need to do this swap? it would be much appreciated...

thanks in advance.

[redsMULLT1]

I'm kinda confused on this one... is it for a mustang or the camaro? If its for the Camaro I can have you a parts list with part numbers and prices tomm.

[matt0114]

sorry..... its for the mustang. i've got someone coming to buy my go kart tomorow and hope to start buying parts soon.

[Bossman351]

Off the top of my head, it seems like all you would need is the following:

intake
carb
fuel pump
distributor
Ignition box

Im sure you could keep some of the factory sending units and guages like temp, amps, oil pressure and fuel. The only factory guages I still have operational in mine are the amp guage and the fuel guage which Im having problems with getting to work right.

As for the price list, It depends on whether or not you want to save money and do a junkyard conversion or buy everything new. Im sure you could find all the parts you need on eBay or at a local swap meet or even a local performance shop. Or you could buy everything new from Summit or Jegs.

For the intake/carb combo I would reccomend an Edelbrock Torker II intake with a Holley 650 cfm "double pumper". This seems to be a good combo for the 5.0. I know a bunch of guys that run this combo and love it. The Performer intake is fairly popular but you wont get the top end performance out of it that you will with a Torker II. ON the distributor a factory sbf non electronic distributor will work but I would also reccomend going with an MSD. Again, this seems to be the distributor of choice for the guys I know. You can use the factory ignition box with your distributor but an MSD would do worlds of good. Finally, for the fuel pump, I would just use a Holley "red" pump. These are good for street/strip use for carbed applications.

Shop the list I just gave you on eBay. They should have everything I listed for a decent price. It would save you alot of money as opposed to buying everything new. You might also find that it would be cheaper to just fix the EFI too.

[redsMULLT1]

I'll be the first to tell yas I know jack shat about a 5.0. But I wouldn't reccomend a holley unless you have a little experiance with them. Would be a PITA on a daily driver. I know my 1st one was. I don't like Edelbrock but it is the easiest street freindly carb I've messed with. Also, unless you have a 5 speed to get the revs up, the low end grunt will be shat with a torker 2. I'd go with a Performer or a Holley Street Dominator intake. Range on the dominator is idle to 7200 on a SBC. Not sure about a SBF. Just spouting off my experiance with chebbys.

[matt0114]

thanks bossman. and no it wouldn't be a daily driver. 60+ miles a day ......nah i'd go broke in a month. LOL...... would the computer in the car need to be removed?? if so what kinda troubles is involved with that??

[Bossman351]

The only thing you would really want to do to the computer is make sure that it doesnt get power anymore unless you want to put it up for sale. then you would want to pull it out.

As for the Holley arguement, Holleys are not hard to work with once you learn to set the needle and seat and they will make more powah than the Performer carb. Also, trust me on this one the torker II is the way to go for the 5.0. Ive driven converted 5.0s with both the performer and the TorkerII. The performer is a street manifold. It even comes with a port for an EGR valve. If your building a race car/ weekend warrior, you will want the TorkerII/ Holley 650 combo. If your worried about bottom end lug with an auto, add a 3000/3500 stall.

I could explain the differences and the pros and cons of each but it would be long and its soo much easier to just give my opinion.

[matt0114]

bossman, i went to a perfomance shop in town, and they said the Torker II was about out of date.

[Bossman351]

There are other choices out there, thats just one of my personal favorites. Something that I totally overlooked that will be important is your transmission. If you have an auto, you will need to switch to a transmission controller which can be pretty expensive. If its got a 5 speed, youre good to go without changing anything.

[matt0114]

its 5 speed tranny

[redsMULLT1]

Check these out Matt.. these are from Jegs

Weiand Stealth.... part #925-8020 Idle to 6800 RPM



Weiand Action Plus Lo Profile.... part #925-8011 Idle to 6000 RPM



Weiand X-CELerator.... part #925-7515 1500 to 7000 RPM



I know a few guys that have ran Weiand manifolds, they liked them.

I would look into Edelbrock carbs or maybe even a Road Demon.



(Damn I've edited this like 6 times... I gotta quit drinkin)

[matt0114]

thanks guys. your a lot of help.....if i ever meet yall, if i ever go to joes for a meet.......(i'll make it eventually) you can both (bossman, and redsmullet) take the car for a ride. i posted the same thing at mf.com and all i got was critisizm.... its great, like 1/10000 of the members here as there and i still get all the best info here.

[Bossman351]

Glad to know we could be of some help even if it were only a little bit. :wink

[redsMULLT1]

Sweet man. I can't beleive it almost took me a hour to make that last post. If you need anything else man, just holla. PM, post it, email me or whatever bub!