Smog Pump Delete?

5-0stank · September 28th, 2006, 02:34 PM

On my 1995 i want to get rid of the smog pump and all the nasty piping that comes from it. if i get the delete bracket/pulley...what do i do with the vacuum line that is connected to the line from the pump? also how can i block off the passages that lead into the heads? what else is associated w/ this smog pump delete?

thanks

5-0stank · September 28th, 2006, 02:35 PM

i am also planning on putting aftermarket heads/intake on this winter...any changes for these?

83 5.0 · September 29th, 2006, 11:20 PM

Just went through what you are doing with my 83 convertible and 93 5.0 motor. I bought the FRPP thread in plugs for the heads, don't waste your money on these, the hole has to be tapped and can't be done with the engine in the car.

Older heads use a frost plug type blocker, I just cut the tubes off the manifold that goes into the back of the heads, then flipped these around and bolted them over the hole in the head. Used a some high temp rtv silicone just as a precaution for leaks. There was no gasket originally and there wasn't any leakage.

If you delete the pump why not just remove the hardware and get rid of it, and run a shorter belt? There is a posing on this forum somewhere for the belt installations depending on your accessories.

dcraig8 · September 30th, 2006, 01:20 AM

remove the smog pump and all the piping that goes with it. you can weld the bung on the intake manifold shut and also where it goes into your midpipe. just put a plastic cap (plug) on the 2 vacuum lines that will come off when you remove the pump. get a smog pump delete pulley and install it on the original smog pump bracket. dont go for the shorter belt thing. it will cause you problems down the road. the stock belt will fit with the delete pulley

5-0stank · September 30th, 2006, 02:23 PM

thanks

Zak · September 30th, 2006, 09:58 PM

I read somewhere that smog pumps or air pumps help heating up the air or the emissions in order to allow it flow easily through the catalytic converters.. I think you shouldn't eliminate/delete the smog pump unless you wanna remove the cats - use off road H-pipes..

5-0stank · September 30th, 2006, 11:52 PM

not to be sarcastic but read my sig [o/r h-pipe]

Zak · October 1st, 2006, 03:31 AM

whoa

I had those, but because of the cops & emissions law.. had to purchase Catco hi-flow cats and put them on. Some think that cats may hurt performance a bit, but your engine makes a better use of the H-pipe when the cats are there.

03stanger · October 1st, 2006, 10:11 AM

go to your local parts store and buy belt number K060770 and then you dont have to buy the pulley to delete the smog pump

320hpPony? · October 2nd, 2006, 01:08 AM

I snatched the cats and smog pump put bolts in the back of my heads and put on headers so no need to plug holes in exhaust. Heres the belt routing if u decide just to snatch the pump and get a shorter belt. Mine has been tearin up road for almost 6 months with no problems with the shorter belt.

cooktheworld · October 2nd, 2006, 01:22 AM

hey thats good it helps me out to. I am doing the samething myself.

ChrisJ · October 2nd, 2006, 02:06 AM

Originally Posted by 320hpPony?

I snatched the cats and smog pump put bolts in the back of my heads and put on headers so no need to plug holes in exhaust. Heres the belt routing if u decide just to snatch the pump and get a shorter belt. Mine has been tearin up road for almost 6 months with no problems with the shorter belt.

Thats the exact diagram I was looking for...

My freind deleted his smog pump on his 5.0 and he is very happy with it...He also deleted the A/C at the same time...

cooktheworld · October 2nd, 2006, 02:21 AM

I also pulled out the A.C.

Shadow · October 2nd, 2006, 11:51 AM

I pulled the smog and power steering. Just move your belt tensioner from on top of the belt pressing down to under the belt lifting up. Lift up on the tensioner until you have the propper tension on the belt and tighten down the nut that secures the tensioner. There won't be a spring pressure tightening the belt this way but this is no problem. My friends and I have been running ours like this for over 10 years without any problems. Cars used to put tension on the drive belt like this pulling the alternator until the belt tension was right and tightening it down for 70+ years before they ever made a tensioner. In over 15 years messing with mustangs I have not heard of a single problem running it this way.

cobralini · October 2nd, 2006, 12:01 PM

Hey, I need the AC relay connection and relay on the passager side fender and a half a foot of wire. Also the connector for the dryer too!

5-0stank · October 2nd, 2006, 05:08 PM

about this short belt stuff....i have a 1995 5.0 and i have a tensioner pulley and an idler pulley, not sure if those are the right lengths for me

cooktheworld · October 2nd, 2006, 07:01 PM

Hey I just tried 6 different belt sizes before I got it right and mine was a 74 inch belt size. I got a 93 lx.

Tony_90fox · October 2nd, 2006, 07:01 PM

i never use my a/c, so do i have to have the belt around the a/c pulley? Do i have to get a delete for it, or can i just get a belt that doesnt go around it? If i deleted the a/c, does that bring more horse power or something? I just never use it and would like to free up some more power.

cooktheworld · October 2nd, 2006, 07:26 PM

Yes there is an A.C. delete get one and put it on. I got mine from tommie vaughn ford in Houston. The one I have moves the power steering pump where the A.C. compressor was, and it was so easy to do.

rusty2407 · July 14th, 2008, 01:57 PM

Originally Posted by 320hpPony?

I snatched the cats and smog pump put bolts in the back of my heads and put on headers so no need to plug holes in exhaust. Heres the belt routing if u decide just to snatch the pump and get a shorter belt. Mine has been tearin up road for almost 6 months with no problems with the shorter belt.

where did you get those bolts i need them too...

September 28th, 2006, 02:34 PM	#1
5-0stank Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: emmaus, pa Posts: 508	Smog Pump Delete? On my 1995 i want to get rid of the smog pump and all the nasty piping that comes from it. if i get the delete bracket/pulley...what do i do with the vacuum line that is connected to the line from the pump? also how can i block off the passages that lead into the heads? what else is associated w/ this smog pump delete? thanks __________________ 1995 GT 5-Speed: 14.4 @ 96.1mph

September 28th, 2006, 02:35 PM	#2
5-0stank Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: emmaus, pa Posts: 508	i am also planning on putting aftermarket heads/intake on this winter...any changes for these? __________________ 1995 GT 5-Speed: 14.4 @ 96.1mph

September 30th, 2006, 02:23 PM	#5
5-0stank Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: emmaus, pa Posts: 508	thanks __________________ 1995 GT 5-Speed: 14.4 @ 96.1mph

September 30th, 2006, 11:52 PM	#7
5-0stank Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: emmaus, pa Posts: 508	not to be sarcastic but read my sig [o/r h-pipe] __________________ 1995 GT 5-Speed: 14.4 @ 96.1mph

October 2nd, 2006, 05:08 PM	#16
5-0stank Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: emmaus, pa Posts: 508	about this short belt stuff....i have a 1995 5.0 and i have a tensioner pulley and an idler pulley, not sure if those are the right lengths for me __________________ 1995 GT 5-Speed: 14.4 @ 96.1mph

September 29th, 2006, 11:20 PM	#3
83 5.0 Regular Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Toronto Ont. Canada Posts: 202	Just went through what you are doing with my 83 convertible and 93 5.0 motor. I bought the FRPP thread in plugs for the heads, don't waste your money on these, the hole has to be tapped and can't be done with the engine in the car. Older heads use a frost plug type blocker, I just cut the tubes off the manifold that goes into the back of the heads, then flipped these around and bolted them over the hole in the head. Used a some high temp rtv silicone just as a precaution for leaks. There was no gasket originally and there wasn't any leakage. If you delete the pump why not just remove the hardware and get rid of it, and run a shorter belt? There is a posing on this forum somewhere for the belt installations depending on your accessories.

September 30th, 2006, 01:20 AM	#4
dcraig8 Regular Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: san antonio texas Posts: 124	remove the smog pump and all the piping that goes with it. you can weld the bung on the intake manifold shut and also where it goes into your midpipe. just put a plastic cap (plug) on the 2 vacuum lines that will come off when you remove the pump. get a smog pump delete pulley and install it on the original smog pump bracket. dont go for the shorter belt thing. it will cause you problems down the road. the stock belt will fit with the delete pulley

September 30th, 2006, 09:58 PM	#6
Zak Regular Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 253	I read somewhere that smog pumps or air pumps help heating up the air or the emissions in order to allow it flow easily through the catalytic converters.. I think you shouldn't eliminate/delete the smog pump unless you wanna remove the cats - use off road H-pipes..

October 1st, 2006, 03:31 AM	#8
Zak Regular Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 253	whoa I had those, but because of the cops & emissions law.. had to purchase Catco hi-flow cats and put them on. Some think that cats may hurt performance a bit, but your engine makes a better use of the H-pipe when the cats are there.

October 1st, 2006, 10:11 AM	#9
03stanger Regular Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 123	go to your local parts store and buy belt number K060770 and then you dont have to buy the pulley to delete the smog pump

October 2nd, 2006, 01:22 AM	#11
cooktheworld Regular Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: houston tx Posts: 204	hey thats good it helps me out to. I am doing the samething myself.

October 2nd, 2006, 02:21 AM	#13
cooktheworld Regular Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: houston tx Posts: 204	I also pulled out the A.C.

October 2nd, 2006, 11:51 AM	#14
Shadow Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Virginia Beach Va Posts: 2	I pulled the smog and power steering. Just move your belt tensioner from on top of the belt pressing down to under the belt lifting up. Lift up on the tensioner until you have the propper tension on the belt and tighten down the nut that secures the tensioner. There won't be a spring pressure tightening the belt this way but this is no problem. My friends and I have been running ours like this for over 10 years without any problems. Cars used to put tension on the drive belt like this pulling the alternator until the belt tension was right and tightening it down for 70+ years before they ever made a tensioner. In over 15 years messing with mustangs I have not heard of a single problem running it this way.

October 2nd, 2006, 12:01 PM	#15
cobralini Regular Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 183	Hey, I need the AC relay connection and relay on the passager side fender and a half a foot of wire. Also the connector for the dryer too!

October 2nd, 2006, 07:01 PM	#17
cooktheworld Regular Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: houston tx Posts: 204	Hey I just tried 6 different belt sizes before I got it right and mine was a 74 inch belt size. I got a 93 lx.

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October 2nd, 2006, 07:01 PM	#18
Tony_90fox MM Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bowling Green, KY Posts: 3,445	i never use my a/c, so do i have to have the belt around the a/c pulley? Do i have to get a delete for it, or can i just get a belt that doesnt go around it? If i deleted the a/c, does that bring more horse power or something? I just never use it and would like to free up some more power. __________________ Suck on it Trebek. Suck it long, suck it hard.

October 2nd, 2006, 07:26 PM	#19
cooktheworld Regular Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: houston tx Posts: 204	Yes there is an A.C. delete get one and put it on. I got mine from tommie vaughn ford in Houston. The one I have moves the power steering pump where the A.C. compressor was, and it was so easy to do.