[woody1]

Hey guys, I am the owner of http://www.fordstrokers.com and I see some of you hitting my store, so I thought I would drop in and help in anyway in regards to building a 347.

There are 2 different 347 kits available the first being the 347GT which uses a 3.400 crank, 5.400 rod and a probe forged piston with a compression height of 1.090. This is the kit that has the piston pin intersecting with the oil ring land in the piston. It's not a problem and have been like this for decades. Shown here


The second 347 is the street fighter which uses a 3.400 crank, 5.315 rod and a probe forged piston with a 1.175 compressin height. Coasthigh made this change to please people that didnt like the piston pin intersecting the ring lands.

As for building a 347, its really straightforward, you will do your regular machine work just like building a 302-306-331-347. The only difference with the 347 is you will need to notch the bottom of the cylinders to clear the connecting rod bolt. This is not a big deal and takes 30 minutes with a dremel as seen here

I am a fairly large Coasthigh dealer and offer tech support that cant be touched in this day and age. Call me, email me, use live support at my store, stop by my forum, send smoke signals. Im very easy to reach. If I can help let me know

So in the end you need a 3.400 crank, 5.400 or 5.315 rod and pistons with the correct compression height, either 1.090 using a 5.400 rod or 1.175 using the 5.315 rod

Jim aka woody

[Tony_90fox]

Hey Woody, is the link I left one of your products? mine is bored 30 over already. I guess i'll get the kit, take it to a shop and have them do the work.

[Darrell]

#3 347 = 4.125 bore x 3.25 stroke

[woody1]

Originally Posted by Tony_90fox Hey Woody, is the link I left one of your products? mine is bored 30 over already. I guess i'll get the kit, take it to a shop and have them do the work.

ya thats how I knew people were coming from this site. Feel free to call me 630-293-5439 or you can PM me your number, any way you like to do it bud.

[woody1]

Originally Posted by Darrell #3 347 = 4.125 bore x 3.25 stroke

Definately, but I got the impression noone here in this thread was doing a dart block big bore 347

[ken5_0]

So Darrell what if you lived next to chp? Would you buy one of there engines? I also Love dealing with local shops. But I have torn down quite a few "Builders" engines! Never had to tear out a CHP motor yet. Done a few. Shiny ads dont make good engines. But CHP does! Cant say I know how they deal with "problems" cause I have never had to talk with them about one.

[Tony_90fox]

I dont want to bust in but I think Darrell said that he uses a 32 year old block and that there is no point in buying a new block.

[95opal]

Originally Posted by Tony_90fox I dont want to bust in but I think Darrell said that he uses a 32 year old block and that there is no point in buying a new block.

There is no point in buying a new block if.. you dont have plans to push your combo past the limits of the stock block, otherwise you should upgrade to something like a Dart, or Man O War, or wait for the new Boss 302 block. My thoughts are if your going through all the trouble to build a stroker than you might as well upgrade the block and have a balanced assembly. This way it will give you room to grow in the future incase you go with a power adder.

[Darrell]

Originally Posted by ken5_0 So Darrell what if you lived next to chp? Would you buy one of there engines? I also Love dealing with local shops. But I have torn down quite a few "Builders" engines! Never had to tear out a CHP motor yet. Done a few. Shiny ads dont make good engines. But CHP does! Cant say I know how they deal with "problems" cause I have never had to talk with them about one.

That is hard to answer Ken. I have all my machine work done by a local guy and he has been doing all my work for years. I normally do all the assembly myself. Probe/CHP does have some good parts. The only thing that gets me about mail order engines is the assembly line type of assembly. Its like a production job. But like was mentioned earlier Probe/CHP has made good with errors in the past so that is definitely a plus.

Originally Posted by Tony_90fox I dont want to bust in but I think Darrell said that he uses a 32 year old block and that there is no point in buying a new block.

I make 700+ horsepower at the flywheel with a production 1974 Windsor block. No issues at all. This engine has been abused for 3 years and 300+ 1/4 mile passes and thousands of street miles and never been opened up. The only thing I've changed were valve springs because that is normal twice a year maintenence for me. 5 liter blocks are weak but until you make over 500hp with them they are damn near fail proof. The 347 in my brother in laws Cobra makes almost as much horsepower as my engine and is in a production 1991 block out of my old Mustang. That engine has been abused equal to my engine in my notchback. An aftermarket block is a waste of money unless you have a hardcore racing program.

[Tony_90fox]

When i go to get the kit put in, i am gonna have them just check the block and such. I seriously doubt anything is wrong with it.

And fellas, i am a 19 year old student. I am gettin all of my car stuff with a loan. the loan isnt gonna be in my name, i am gonna pay it off in my uncles name. I just dont have the cash to pay off a new block too. I think my block will hold up for my HP and the mods i am gettin. when i need a new block after my HP increases, i will then hopefully get a new block.

Thanks for the info, hopefully i get this all worked out. I have Jim calling me tomorrow and i hope to get this straightened out to where i can know the right stuff to buy and what combo i will need.

I got a good combo lined out to make some good HP for my age and experience. I will definately keep all of you informed and will post some pics of the transition to weak to awesome!

[HM26]

From what I hear stock blocks are only good up to 550 ish, so a new block would not be in the cards unless you plan on making more than that.

[Tony_90fox]

Nope, I need nothing that high in this car. At least, not yet...

[HM26]

You will be more than fine with a stock block. Sounds like you are going to be having some fun with this build... good luck

[Tony_90fox]

thanks, i know i will. it will be good to actually have a "real" mustang, not this stock thing i drive around now!

[Modified88Dreamer]

Tony_90fox, a way to compliment a 347 stroker is with a K-member. Unless you have one already. I just figured that if you were to pull the motor out, might as well lighten the front by 60-70 lbs using a K-member.

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/10918/

http://www.modulardepot.com/product_...products_id=38

[Tony_90fox]

actually i may have an extra $300 in my loan, well I am gonna take out $500 extra in case shit happens, but yes, if i have the extra dough, I'll definately pick one up. Thanks for that lil tid bit. I never even thought of getting one. Thanks!

[ProDetroit]

Originally Posted by woody1 So in the end you need a 3.400 crank, 5.400 or 5.315 rod and pistons with the correct compression height, either 1.090 using a 5.400 rod or 1.175 using the 5.315 rod Jim aka woody

^ I'm glad someone mentioned the notching of the block for woody1 to understand what all is involved with a 347ci stroker

[woody1]

Originally Posted by ProDetroit Originally Posted by woody1 So in the end you need a 3.400 crank, 5.400 or 5.315 rod and pistons with the correct compression height, either 1.090 using a 5.400 rod or 1.175 using the 5.315 rod Jim aka woody ^ I'm glad someone mentioned the notching of the block for woody1 to understand what all is involved with a 347ci stroker

Not sure where your going but, after building these small blocks for the last 17+ years, Im quite familiar with the process. Hell back in the day we were using old pinto rods