[feedmeurskinnyppl]

hopefully i dont need this sticky as the rear end was rebuilt with frpp 4.10s right befo i baught car...but it feels like its strugglin already to keep both spinnin...maybe i need carbons...but im only runnin a stock 93 5.0 H.O motor with bbk equal length shorties and 70 mm edelbrock TB and EGR spacer...and a aod with stage 1 shift kit...and the torqe bars...any suggestions would be much appreciated...

[relentless]

2.0t MKV volkswagens are still faster

[AgPete139]

Do the pics no longer work?

[BillBuckley]

Ryan,
GREAT HOW TO.. took half an hour to completely tear it down, although I couldn't open the photos. The complete used stacks measured .641 and .643 The new stack with the added, used, outside and flipped clutch measures
.631 with no shim. Thinnest shim in the rebuild kit is .030, which gives me .660 total thickness. Is this too tight and if so where can I get .020 shims? BTW the old clutches were worn VERY thin so .660 may or may not be right on. Your thoughts please.
Thanks
Bill

[ryans88gt]

Try it and see if it fits. If you can't get the cross pin in there easily, then it is too tight. The kits I have used in the past came with shims as small as 0.010...

[ryans88gt]

PS, sorry about the pics, don't know why they don't load anymore. I still have them, maybe I'll repost them if I get bored.

[50GT23]

nice how to. question will a 2000 gt 8.8 rearend fit in a 95 gt's spot or do i have to get a 94-95 axle

[50GT23]

figured it out thanx everyone

[bigal4773]

This a nice write up, but I guess over time the pics faded away LOL. any way you could repost them?

[R3dFyre02]

PLEASE REPOST te pics!! PLEASE! I have to do this this weekend and I sure would love the pics to go with your write up as Im working on it....

[ryans88gt]

I reuploaded the pictures

After cover removal


Remove center pin bolt


Remove Center pin


Push in axles, Remove C-clips


Pull out axles


Remove S spring


Rotate using one axle to remove planetary gears


Remove clutch packs and side gears

[ryans88gt]

Clutch Packs


Reinstall repacked clutches and side gears together with shims


Use center pin to line up planetary gears


Rotate planetaries into place using one axle




Use worm gears to clamp S-spring


Reinstall S-spring


Remove worm gears using a combo of vice grips and small screwdriver





Axles back in


C-clips back on and center pin back in


Tighten center pin bolt


Add a nice cover

[50GT23]

man lovin the writeup more and more how hard is it to remove the gears???? the one that will be the b***h is the little one right???

[1988MustangGT]

cool

[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by 50GT23 man lovin the writeup more and more how hard is it to remove the gears???? the one that will be the b***h is the little one right???

To remove the planetary gears, put the car in gear with the S-spring and center pin removed. Push one axle back into the trac-lok unit and rotate the axle which will rotate the gears out of the carrier.

[Rayraytdog]

Don't mean to ask question that night have already been answered, but can you rebuild these without taking out diff in about all mustangs.? I have 2002 Saleen S281, need to rebuild.

[331gt]

Very Very good writeup, I was looking for a how-to, since my posi needs a rebuild. Thanks very much for your help! BTW, awesome pictures as well!

[Cudascious]

Great write up! I am doing this very thing this week, I already did it this weekend but used the existing used clutch pack, it was unsuccessful as they were just too worn. So I have new clutch packs on the way.

I just wanted your thoughts on eliminating the S spring. My Drag racing buddy used to work for a performance Ford magazine. And has done this build for years.

So, the idea is if the car will never be driven on ice or used on a surface that would require preload on the clutch packs, the S spring is not necessary. As long as it is tight without the S spring, then for Drag use or performance use, there is no need to preload the packs. The engine torque will over-ride the S spring preload.

If the pin is snug against the axles then only a miniscule amount of torque will force the clutches to lock.

I have it apart again right now, and am considering not preloading with the S spring. The main idea is there is unnecessary preload under no torque conditions (such as ice) and actually causes the clutch packs to wear faster under normal driving.

What are your thoughts on this? Thanks

[ryans88gt]

I would leave the S-spring in there. As the clutches wear, you will need the S-spring to keep tension on the clutches because even if it is tight when you put it together, 1000 miles from then, there will be some space that needs to be taken up.

[Cudascious]

Sounds reasonable. Ill put the dreaded spring back in.

Again, excellent write up.

The most difficult things about this rebuild are jacking up the car and taking the wheels off, oh and the scraping. I notice this write up was written quite a while ago, are you still using this rebuild?