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Discussing Some Progress... in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. ok so the 2 big things i have wrong fuel pump wouldnt turn on and ...

       

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Old March 4th, 2008, 02:36 PM   #1
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Some Progress...


ok so the 2 big things i have wrong fuel pump wouldnt turn on and engine wouldnt turn over...

wel i got it to do both but nither at the turn of the key....

i was able to jump the selnoid and get it to turn over so i am pretty sure i have the wires hooked up wrong to the selonid.

i took the drivers seat out and was able to jump the hot wire to the two pink ones that go to the fuel pump and it turned on and pressureized the system to 30 psi now i have to figure out if the relay is bad or if the wire that triggers the relay is bad. how does the system shut off is it controlled by the computer or inside the fuel pump? or does it run constantly while the car is running?
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Old March 4th, 2008, 03:10 PM   #2
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Did you get a key on 12V pulse at the relay activation wire when cycling the key?
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Old March 4th, 2008, 03:13 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt View Post
Did you get a key on 12V pulse at the relay activation wire when cycling the key?
what do u mean?? that it isnt constantly 12v... the voltage would go up and down...
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Old March 4th, 2008, 03:15 PM   #4
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or do u mean the green and i think yellow wire? i wasnt getting anything from that as far as power..
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Old March 4th, 2008, 06:01 PM   #5
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when you look at the relay plug there should be 1 wire that is constant hot it is a heavier gauge then you will see another wire same gauge that feeds the pump there will be 2 smaller gauge wires 1 is a ground the other get power when the key is turned on to cycle the fuel pump when the engine is running that wire will have power on it to keep the relay closed thus keeping the fuel pump running all you need is a test light or a meter can you can check the plug
 
Old March 4th, 2008, 06:16 PM   #6
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if you can't start the car with the switch and the fuel pump won't come on by the switch, I would be looking at replacing that switch. It almost has to be that or the eec relay i would think.
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Old March 4th, 2008, 06:18 PM   #7
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the thick orange light blue wire should get a constant 12 V source

The thin red black wire should get a 12V spike for about 1 second when you turn the key from the off to the on position (this is how your fuel pump normally primes when you turn the key on).

You should get continuity with ground on the tan light green wire when the key is cycled as well.


Actually come to think of it the thin red/black wire might be positive all the time when the key is on and the ground only cycles for 1 second....not sure but you should definitely get 12V at the red/black wire for the first second when you turn the key and then maybe after that.
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Last edited by ryans88gt : March 4th, 2008 at 06:22 PM.
 
Old March 4th, 2008, 08:09 PM   #8
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the orange lt blue is the constant then there is 2 pink wires that when jumped from the orange the pump turns on.. then there is a red/black wire and a green/something wire

so when the ey is on the tan/green becomes ground? ill try that out...
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Old March 4th, 2008, 08:47 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by e3sean View Post
the orange lt blue is the constant then there is 2 pink wires that when jumped from the orange the pump turns on.. then there is a red/black wire and a green/something wire

so when the ey is on the tan/green becomes ground? ill try that out...
Are you listening to me?

You are jumping from the hot side to the pump and have verified that circuit is good. Congrats. Now you need to check the relay activation circuit. the red/black wire is the postive that turns the relay on and the green/tan wire is the ground. If you are not getting 12V at the red/black wire for at least 1 sec at key on that is your problem. If you are not getting ground for at least one second at the green tan wire at key on, that is your problem. Got it? The relay has two complete circuits. Two hots, two grounds (one ground is the pump, the other is the computer).
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Old March 4th, 2008, 08:55 PM   #10
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gotcha.. so ill stick my multimeter in there and see if i can get anything thanks..
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Old March 5th, 2008, 02:20 AM   #11
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ok just tested it... the tan/green one is ground the red/black one gets nothing when the key is cycled.... i think i have a bad computer... i went ahead and pressureised the system turned the key to the on position and turned the engine on and i got nothing not a ping not an attempt to start ... so i am pretty sure i have a bad computer or bad ecu harness..
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Old March 7th, 2008, 02:12 AM   #12
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Are you getting power to anything when you turn the key? Just wondering if have ingition switch (the box with the connector-not the lock cyl.) issues.

BTW, can you get to here from work???
 
Old March 7th, 2008, 02:16 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt View Post
Did you get a key on 12V pulse at the relay activation wire when cycling the key?
yeah thats what i was thinking
 
Old March 7th, 2008, 03:23 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by p-351 View Post
Are you getting power to anything when you turn the key? Just wondering if have ingition switch (the box with the connector-not the lock cyl.) issues.

BTW, can you get to here from work???
yes i can
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Old March 7th, 2008, 04:16 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by e3sean View Post
yes i can
What the hell is up with that??? You're on a super-anal AETC active duty base where you can get to a "forum" website-----and I can't get there from a guard base People have been saying that we're getting more and more like the active duty all the time--I just didn't know we'd actually get more anal retentive.

How's the troubleshooting coming???
 
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