Valve lash adjustment

shurb125 · March 9th, 2008, 12:39 PM

Yesterday I finally got time to readjust the valve lash, I started with cylinder #1 and followed the directions in the sticky for "Tech article directory" subtitle "valve lash adjustment." I backed off the adjusting nut and let the lifter and pushrod sit with no pressure for about two minutes and then start to tighten the adjusting nut while turning the pushrod and once I felt a slight resistance then from there I turned the adjusting nut 1/4 turn. I did all the valves this way, then started the car and it sounded terrible so I quickly turned it off, checked the oil and it was about a quart low so topped of the oil started it back up and still didn't sound good, then tried it a couple more times and then it quitend down. Now the thorttle respose is much different and it sounds different but a good different. Was the reason for the initial noisey start up is that the lifters had build up oil pressure to tighten up the lifter and pushrod???

shurb125 · March 9th, 2008, 10:02 PM

Any ideas???

ryans88gt · March 9th, 2008, 10:28 PM

You did each valve when they where completely closed and not all at the same time, right?

Can say that I know why it would sound bad after adjusting the valves unless you messed something up??

shurb125 · March 10th, 2008, 05:06 PM

Originally Posted by ryans88gt

You did each valve when they where completely closed and not all at the same time, right?

Can say that I know why it would sound bad after adjusting the valves unless you messed something up??

This is how I did it cylinder by cylinder:

The only method to adjust valves properly is as follows
1 Turn the motor over till the exhaust valve just starts to open.
2 Adjust the intake valve on that cylinder (I loosened the rocker so that the lifter could adjust 1.5-2 minutes just in case there was to much preload to begin with, then just turn the pushrod with my thumb and pointing finger untill I felt a slight resistence then went 1/4 round)
3 Turn the motor over till the intake valve starts to close
4 Adjust the exhaust valve
This will work on any motor and any cam.

This is what I did on all the valves

The engine seems to rev much quicker and the throttle response seems very resposive. By doing these adjustments, would it affect the A/F ratio???

1slo5.0 · March 10th, 2008, 06:23 PM

Sounds like you have a bit of valve train noise from the lash being a bit on the loose side. Probably not a big deal.

shurb125 · March 10th, 2008, 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by Darrell

Sounds like you have a bit of valve train noise from the lash being a bit on the loose side. Probably not a big deal.

Do you think I should go back and maybe go another 1/4 turn to make it a 1/2 turn total??? Didn't you say you if my rockers were to tight that was probably what caused the rpm's on the dyno sheet to be lower than what you expected??? (Dyno sheet 5250-5500 vs. your suggetion 6200-6250)

1slo5.0 · March 10th, 2008, 08:04 PM

Originally Posted by shurb125

Do you think I should go back and maybe go another 1/4 turn to make it a 1/2 turn total??? Didn't you say you if my rockers were to tight that was probably what caused the rpm's on the dyno sheet to be lower than what you expected??? (Dyno sheet 5250-5500 vs. your suggetion 6200-6250)

Its hard to tell without physically seeing the car but from the sounds of it I'd just leave it unless the valve train noise bothers you. Too tight is going to hurt you more than too loose will.

shurb125 · March 10th, 2008, 08:19 PM

Sounds good, thanks for your help Darrell and Ryan

ryans88gt · March 10th, 2008, 09:52 PM

Yeah, a little valve lash isn't going to hurt anything, it is just going to make noise.

March 9th, 2008, 10:02 PM	#2
shurb125 Regular 1993 Mustang LX Vert Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: South Carolina Posts: 437 iTrader: 0 reviews	Any ideas??? __________________ 306 TFS heads stage 3 port & polished, TFS stage 2 cam, TFS Track heat intake, DSS pistons, 24# injectors, 76mm MAF, 70mm BBK/Edelbrock TB and spacer

March 9th, 2008, 10:28 PM	#3
ryans88gt MM Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 4,737 iTrader: 0 reviews	You did each valve when they where completely closed and not all at the same time, right? Can say that I know why it would sound bad after adjusting the valves unless you messed something up?? __________________ 88 GT CHI headed 351w 10.8 @ 125 - still figuring it out. 03 Cobra 2.3 whipple 10.7 @ 129 - sold it 04 Mach 1 12.7 @ 109 mostly stock - sold it 89 LX procharged 302 515 hp 497 ftlbs 10.7 @130 mph - sold it

March 10th, 2008, 06:23 PM	#5
1slo5.0 MM Ninjas! 1990 Mustang LX 9.36@143 mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: North Fond du Lac, Wisconsin Posts: 11,375 iTrader: 1 reviews	Sounds like you have a bit of valve train noise from the lash being a bit on the loose side. Probably not a big deal. __________________ My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost

March 10th, 2008, 08:19 PM	#8
shurb125 Regular 1993 Mustang LX Vert Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: South Carolina Posts: 437 iTrader: 0 reviews	Sounds good, thanks for your help Darrell and Ryan __________________ 306 TFS heads stage 3 port & polished, TFS stage 2 cam, TFS Track heat intake, DSS pistons, 24# injectors, 76mm MAF, 70mm BBK/Edelbrock TB and spacer

March 10th, 2008, 09:52 PM	#9
ryans88gt MM Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 4,737 iTrader: 0 reviews	Yeah, a little valve lash isn't going to hurt anything, it is just going to make noise. __________________ 88 GT CHI headed 351w 10.8 @ 125 - still figuring it out. 03 Cobra 2.3 whipple 10.7 @ 129 - sold it 04 Mach 1 12.7 @ 109 mostly stock - sold it 89 LX procharged 302 515 hp 497 ftlbs 10.7 @130 mph - sold it

March 9th, 2008, 12:39 PM	#1
shurb125 Regular 1993 Mustang LX Vert Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: South Carolina Posts: 437 iTrader: 0 reviews	Valve lash adjustment Yesterday I finally got time to readjust the valve lash, I started with cylinder #1 and followed the directions in the sticky for "Tech article directory" subtitle "valve lash adjustment." I backed off the adjusting nut and let the lifter and pushrod sit with no pressure for about two minutes and then start to tighten the adjusting nut while turning the pushrod and once I felt a slight resistance then from there I turned the adjusting nut 1/4 turn. I did all the valves this way, then started the car and it sounded terrible so I quickly turned it off, checked the oil and it was about a quart low so topped of the oil started it back up and still didn't sound good, then tried it a couple more times and then it quitend down. Now the thorttle respose is much different and it sounds different but a good different. Was the reason for the initial noisey start up is that the lifters had build up oil pressure to tighten up the lifter and pushrod??? __________________ 306 TFS heads stage 3 port & polished, TFS stage 2 cam, TFS Track heat intake, DSS pistons, 24# injectors, 76mm MAF, 70mm BBK/Edelbrock TB and spacer

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