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Old March 12th, 2008, 04:26 PM   #21
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Laurel Mountain Mustang has a nice set of supports for the upper and lower for a good price and Wild Rides' Battle Boxes - How To - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine has a write up and pictures.

Instead of the kits, some people just weld up around the seam.
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Old March 12th, 2008, 08:32 PM   #22
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heres a video of the upper control arm with me rocking it.

looks like the bushings may be shot?

would this cause the problems im having?

time to get upper and lowers.

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Old March 12th, 2008, 09:12 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 2001kx View Post
heres a video of the upper control arm with me rocking it.

looks like the bushings may be shot?

would this cause the problems im having?

time to get upper and lowers.

YouTube - upper
That is typical for stock bushings. The noise you are hearing is the axles moving in the housing. With the factory c-clips there is a small amount of play in the axles.
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Old March 12th, 2008, 10:26 PM   #24
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i had a car that did that the tq boxes were shot the bolt holes for the lower control were ovaled and the boxes were cracked and fallin out when i made turns you could see the hole rear slide from side to side i ended up junking the car
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Old March 14th, 2008, 03:45 PM   #25
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ok i bought a set of TRZ adj / solid uppers and non adj lowers.

next is battle boxes....well see if it helps.
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Old March 14th, 2008, 04:10 PM   #26
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Lot of extra weight up front with the big block. I noticed that the core support has been modified / gutted on top. Did they gut the bottom section as well? The uni structure in these fox bodies are flimsy and flex alot as it is. I couldn't tell from the photos but it looked like there was some paint cracking where the core support kicks back. Did you see any stress cracks up front anywhere in the uni structure?
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Old March 14th, 2008, 04:40 PM   #27
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i dont know what / where that is?
i dont see what your talking about?
can you explain further so i can look into it?
thanks
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Old March 14th, 2008, 04:42 PM   #28
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do you mean around the radiator?

if so yes i did that to fit the radiator.
i removed the whole bottom section as well and welded in a new c- channel section on the bottom.
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Old March 14th, 2008, 08:00 PM   #29
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That whole front section is the radiator core support. It is a structural part of the unibody. If it can flex / deflect it can cause handling problems up front.
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Old March 14th, 2008, 08:07 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 2001kx View Post
do you mean around the radiator?

if so yes i did that to fit the radiator.
i removed the whole bottom section as well and welded in a new c- channel section on the bottom.
That isn't good. Did you take any reference measurements before you cut it and after you replaced it to make sure strut towers and front end is still square? That could be a major problem.
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Old March 14th, 2008, 08:43 PM   #31
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it drove like this before i cut anything.
and there was no weight on the front (motor was out ) when i did this.
the problems i have feel like its in the rear end?
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Old March 14th, 2008, 08:58 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 2001kx View Post
it drove like this before i cut anything.
and there was no weight on the front (motor was out ) when i did this.
the problems i have feel like its in the rear end?
It doesn't matter if it drove like that before and if the engine was out when you cut the core support. It is a structural part of the front end. The strut towers probably moved. A body or frame shop should be able to help you with the factory measurements so you can see if and how much the strut towers or anything else is out of whack. Even if it drove this way before, you really can't do anything until you get the front end square because you will be fixing a problem with a problem. Start with getting the front end square so you can rule that out. If the front end isn't square you can fix the original problem and the car still won't drive correctly so start with that.
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Old March 31st, 2008, 12:43 AM   #33
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well i installed my uppers / lowers - new bushings in the rear and torque box kit (upper and lowers)
and it made a world of difference.
way better now!!
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Old April 1st, 2008, 10:44 AM   #34
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sweet car..... whats the e/t for a 1/4 mile
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Old April 2nd, 2008, 05:01 PM   #35
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i dont know but the guy who built the motor said it should run 11's?
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