Issues with new 306

viper3508 · March 22nd, 2008, 09:29 PM

well I have been fiddling with my engine and I am having some problems with it and I am not sure why... at idle on occasion and not consistantly it sounds like someone is hitting my header with a wrench or rock and it is reverberating all the way through the exhaust piping. I think it has something to do with the timing but I am not really 100% sure.

But the main problem is after the engine sits for a little while and warms up, I put it in gear and move it, then it won't idle by itself I have to give it some gas for it to stay alive.... and if I move it back to the same location it was before trying to move it, it idles perfectly fine. I have replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and have not clue what this is... does anyone know what it could be?

saldoggs · March 22nd, 2008, 11:36 PM

is the car on flat ground when you move the car also is the car an auto or a stick then you also should see if your firing order is correct and make sure your wires are in good shape you might be getting a cross fire

viper3508 · March 23rd, 2008, 12:15 PM

its not on 100% flat ground but it has a fairly full tank of gas... its a stick... and the firing order is right I checked it already and the spark plug wires worked seemingly perfect on my stock engine they are Taylor 9mm wires.

91cobra5.0 · March 23rd, 2008, 12:40 PM

im not the smartest around here but i agree with you on the timing

viper3508 · March 23rd, 2008, 12:53 PM

I forgot to mention that this engine has FRPP B cam and GT-40 (iron) heads on a 302 bored .30 over stock stroke with 6.8cc domed pistons.

I think I may just need to play with the idle screw... what does a B cam normally idle at? because right now when its cold it sits around 800-1000 rpm until it starts to die unless I give it gas... then before it dies it will rock from 1200 to like 200 rpm before killing itself.

fogged306 · March 23rd, 2008, 04:26 PM

ahh.. the good ole surge and die.. check the sticky about setting the base idle and give that a shot.

Also agree with the timing. I'm not sure what the sound is, but it could be an exhaust valve opening too early.. are the headers glowing red at all? (check this when its dark out if you cant tell when its light)

e3sean · March 23rd, 2008, 04:30 PM

sounding like hitting your exhaust with a wrench... deff has to do with timing... sounds like it might be detonating...

vfast · March 23rd, 2008, 06:19 PM

retorque your header bolts then check timing

viper3508 · March 24th, 2008, 04:53 PM

the headers do not glow red as of now... but I have retorqued the bolts. I dont think it is detonation because it doesnt really sound like a bad combustion (Ive heard that before)... but it does send a nice puff of air out the drivers side tail pipe when it does it.

I have worked with the idle a little with no luck but I am going to continue to work with it.

turbodgumby · March 24th, 2008, 06:05 PM

try pulling the dist. and re-stabbing it 180' I had a stang I built do that and I fought it for days. Double check that you are on top dead center on the compression stroke then re-stab. even if you are sure I'd try it again.

viper3508 · March 24th, 2008, 10:05 PM

oh I am 100% sure of that because the first time I started the motor it was straight flames out the tailpipes because it was firing on the valve over lap... I fixed that.

but I am thinking of taking it to a dyno shop and have them set the timing and mess with the idle just so I know everything is perfect and while I am there they can tune the ECU and I will know exactly how much I put down.

viper3508 · March 25th, 2008, 08:19 PM

I followed the tinstruction for setting idle... and it does so perfectly before I try to move it... but now even when I move it just 50' or so it wants to die on me.... could this be because of a bad Throttle Positioning Sensor? what else could it be?

ryans88gt · March 25th, 2008, 08:57 PM

IAC most likely

viper3508 · March 25th, 2008, 10:38 PM

I have already replaced that with a brand new one...

March 22nd, 2008, 09:29 PM	#1
viper3508 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	Issues with new 306 well I have been fiddling with my engine and I am having some problems with it and I am not sure why... at idle on occasion and not consistantly it sounds like someone is hitting my header with a wrench or rock and it is reverberating all the way through the exhaust piping. I think it has something to do with the timing but I am not really 100% sure. But the main problem is after the engine sits for a little while and warms up, I put it in gear and move it, then it won't idle by itself I have to give it some gas for it to stay alive.... and if I move it back to the same location it was before trying to move it, it idles perfectly fine. I have replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and have not clue what this is... does anyone know what it could be?

March 23rd, 2008, 04:30 PM	#7
e3sean I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1988 lx 9.68@142 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: goldsboro NC Posts: 5,609 iTrader: 0 reviews	sounding like hitting your exhaust with a wrench... deff has to do with timing... sounds like it might be detonating... __________________

March 23rd, 2008, 06:19 PM	#8
vfast Banned Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: shimmy shack takeout Posts: 1,084 iTrader: 0 reviews	retorque your header bolts then check timing __________________ EVERYONE IS ENTITLED TO MY OPINION:cool: 6'ers are for kids 1965 chevelle SS 421 sbc 6 speed, 3.90 gears,alum d-shaft, brodix heads,roller cam,925 AED carb...grocery getter[COLOR="Red"]RIP[/COLOR]

March 24th, 2008, 06:05 PM	#10
turbodgumby Regular 95 Lightning-Twin Turbo 10.66@126 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Port Arthur Posts: 137 iTrader: 0 reviews	try pulling the dist. and re-stabbing it 180' I had a stang I built do that and I fought it for days. Double check that you are on top dead center on the compression stroke then re-stab. even if you are sure I'd try it again. __________________ '95 Lightning-842rwhp/936rwtrq pumpgas Twin T-70 Turbos 393w stroker(stock block) TFS CNC heads Cam Motion Custom Grind Hyd Roller cam BBRC EFI Spyder intake FAST Stock 185,000 trans(PI3000 converter,PUNISHER VB) Drag Radials always

March 25th, 2008, 08:57 PM	#13
ryans88gt MM Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 4,737 iTrader: 0 reviews	IAC most likely __________________ 88 GT CHI headed 351w 10.8 @ 125 - still figuring it out. 03 Cobra 2.3 whipple 10.7 @ 129 - sold it 04 Mach 1 12.7 @ 109 mostly stock - sold it 89 LX procharged 302 515 hp 497 ftlbs 10.7 @130 mph - sold it

March 22nd, 2008, 11:36 PM	#2
saldoggs Regular 1993 mustang lx convertib Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: staten island nyc Posts: 146 iTrader: 0 reviews	is the car on flat ground when you move the car also is the car an auto or a stick then you also should see if your firing order is correct and make sure your wires are in good shape you might be getting a cross fire

March 23rd, 2008, 12:15 PM	#3
viper3508 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	its not on 100% flat ground but it has a fairly full tank of gas... its a stick... and the firing order is right I checked it already and the spark plug wires worked seemingly perfect on my stock engine they are Taylor 9mm wires.

March 23rd, 2008, 12:40 PM	#4
91cobra5.0 Hardcore Enthusiast 98 Cobra Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Bay Area, Ca Posts: 2,057 iTrader: 0 reviews	im not the smartest around here but i agree with you on the timing

March 23rd, 2008, 12:53 PM	#5
viper3508 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	I forgot to mention that this engine has FRPP B cam and GT-40 (iron) heads on a 302 bored .30 over stock stroke with 6.8cc domed pistons. I think I may just need to play with the idle screw... what does a B cam normally idle at? because right now when its cold it sits around 800-1000 rpm until it starts to die unless I give it gas... then before it dies it will rock from 1200 to like 200 rpm before killing itself.

March 23rd, 2008, 04:26 PM	#6
fogged306 MM Fanatic 89 GT Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: NY Posts: 4,875 iTrader: 2 reviews	ahh.. the good ole surge and die.. check the sticky about setting the base idle and give that a shot. Also agree with the timing. I'm not sure what the sound is, but it could be an exhaust valve opening too early.. are the headers glowing red at all? (check this when its dark out if you cant tell when its light)

March 24th, 2008, 04:53 PM	#9
viper3508 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	the headers do not glow red as of now... but I have retorqued the bolts. I dont think it is detonation because it doesnt really sound like a bad combustion (Ive heard that before)... but it does send a nice puff of air out the drivers side tail pipe when it does it. I have worked with the idle a little with no luck but I am going to continue to work with it.

March 24th, 2008, 10:05 PM	#11
viper3508 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	oh I am 100% sure of that because the first time I started the motor it was straight flames out the tailpipes because it was firing on the valve over lap... I fixed that. but I am thinking of taking it to a dyno shop and have them set the timing and mess with the idle just so I know everything is perfect and while I am there they can tune the ECU and I will know exactly how much I put down.

March 25th, 2008, 08:19 PM	#12
viper3508 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	I followed the tinstruction for setting idle... and it does so perfectly before I try to move it... but now even when I move it just 50' or so it wants to die on me.... could this be because of a bad Throttle Positioning Sensor? what else could it be?

March 25th, 2008, 10:38 PM	#14
viper3508 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	I have already replaced that with a brand new one...

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