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#21 |
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MM Fanatic
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He is talking about when things with coils are turned off, like relays and solenoids etc.. Inductors generate current of the opposite polarity when they are turned off, most larger things already have a diode across the coil to absorb this. I don't know where the +25v figure came from because the voltage an inductor gives off can not be higher than the voltage that charged it up (+12v). The real problem is the reverse polity of the current, not the voltage it is at. This "problem" is not going to be any different with or without a battery in the car. The battery is too far away electrically to be effective at filtering this out.
Another note since I jumped back in this... A voltage regulator regulates a positive lead +12v higher than the ground lead. Without a battery, that ground would now be like a "floating ground". Meaning the ground could drift to +5 volts and the positive would now be +17 volts. It may fluctuate rapidly as well through leakage in the alternator. When measured across the chassis and a positive line, you would still read +12v and everything would work. Problem may be if decide to hook a battery back up during that time. You could probably swap a battery out while the car is running 19 out of 20 times without a problem.
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#22 |
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Enthusiast
1989 Mustang LX
10.98@126.7 NA
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: N.E. Ohio
Posts: 698
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Personal experience from my "formative" years. If you start your 1979 f-150 with a charged battery, then remove said battery to put in a "dead" battery so you can fast charge it because you own neither a charger or jumper cables, before the dead battery can be put in, 5 minutes tops, your truck will shut off. When you reinstall the good battery and try to start your truck, it won't. You now get to spend the day identifying all of the fusible links in the wiring harness that did their jobs and stopped you from destroying the entire electrical harness. True story.
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Never fast enough.
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#23 | |
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MM Ninjas!
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and +1
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ![]() ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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#24 | |
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MM Ninjas!
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Alternators are not designed to charge, they are designed to maintain a charge.
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ![]() ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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#25 |
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MM Fanatic
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Okay, based on the statistics I pulled out of my ass, the next 19 times you do it, you'll be fine
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#26 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
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I swear, whenever nolife and fogged get involved in threads, I feel stupid. Half the time I am like what the heck did he say? Makes me wish I went to college. Not an insult by any means. I would have to say I wouldn't do that with a computer controlled car either. Done it with carbed cars, but probably wasn't the smartest thing to do then either, but didn't hurt anything.
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#27 | |
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MM Fanatic
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... and neverfastenough, Thanks for the compliment, but I'm no wiz at this stuff really, just a 2 yr degree... long time ago. You should see the forum I'm on about ecomodding, there are electrical engineers on that site that make me look silly every time I open my mouth... or should I say, use my keyboard. |
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#28 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
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Glad I wasn't the only one that thought that ground theory was wrong.
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#29 |
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MM Fanatic
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I was thinking more along the lines of a ground loop http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity). Without a battery, what is the reference of "zero" volts? Since there is nothing to ensure the negative of the battery (which is disconnected) at the same reference as the negative side of the alternator (or chassis ground), it can drift. The internal regulator simply adjusts to make a 12v difference between the two sides. If your "ground" was really at +10 volts through leakage, your positive would now be at +22v. The resulting output of the alternator would still be +12v as it is designed to do. I'm not going to try it (based on the story above with the F150) but I think you could test this. Run your car with negative battery terminal disconnected. See if there is ever a voltage difference or a changing voltage between the chassis ground and the negative terminal. There are many different type of regulators though. My experience with AC/DC generators is with 3 phase ungrounded systems many moons ago so my thinking may be wrong.
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Last edited by nolife; March 28th, 2008 at 11:16 PM. |
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#30 | |
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MM Fanatic
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Last edited by nolife; March 28th, 2008 at 11:47 PM. |
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#31 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Ok now I see what you're getting at. Actually a simple point really, and quite possibly a valid one. That would explain what happened in the F-150. The rectifiers wouldn't have any effect on how high the voltage could go, it would just give a DC voltage. The only thing that I can think of is that the actual voltage regulator circuit itself operates at 12vDC. I don't know if the reference to ground went up to, say 10v, if that regualtor would still function or not, and if not, I believe that they go into open loop as default which would bring the voltage back down into the normal operating range with a 0v ground +/- a small tolerance, I'm sure, before it closed again. Good point though, I actually may try to test that out at work when I get some time.
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#32 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2007
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Agreed
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