8.8" rear end measurements...
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Old October 18th, 2006, 02:53 PM   34 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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8.8" rear end measurements...


I'm wondering, does anybody have the width measurement of a 8.8" Fox box and SN95 rear ends measured from that of the where the wheels mount up? I've read some flange measurements but I've been told that's the flange of the rear end and not actually where the tires mount up, like the outside of the drums. I'm wanting to know the width where the wheels mount up to see if it's going to be correct for the custom project I'm working on.

Also, does anybody know what the measurement is on the 8.8" rear end from the center of the axles to that of the flange the drive shaft mounts to?

Also, how does like a 88 Ford Thunderbird Coupe 8.8" rear end compare? I got a measurement off of it from wheel mounting surfaces width wise of 61.5 inches and from the center of the axle to that of the driveshaft flange of 10". Are the Stang rear end's narrower than the Thunderbird Coupes?

Thanks!

Ted

PS - This is for a custom project that I'm working on so that's why I need these measurements.

Thanks!

Ted
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Old October 18th, 2006, 03:10 PM   #2
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I'll see if I can dig up some widths on the axles. Here is the info I have and hopefully it will help.

1979 and newer Mustang brake facts:



- 11"and smaller brakes fit under 15"+ wheels, 12" brakes require 16"+ wheels, and 13"+ brakes require a 17" or larger diameter wheels

- 1994-1998 Mustang rear axles are 3/4" wider on each side than a 79-93 Mustang.

- 1999 and newer Mustang rear axles are about 1 7/16" wider on each side than a 79-93 Mustang.

- 94 and newer Mustang 8.8 will bolt into a 79-93 Mustang but will require brake line adapters.

- Lincoln Mark7 LSC, SVO Mustang and Fox Body Saleens use a rear axle that is 1.25" wider per side than the 87-93 Mustangs.

- 94-95 spindles share the same track width as 79-93 spindles.

- 96 and up spindles have an 8mm wider track width.

- 79-93 Mustangs all use 9" drums with 7.5 and 8.8 rear axles.

- 4.0 liter Rangers use a wider 8.8 rear axle and 10" drums.

- Explorer 8.8 rear axles are 1" wider per side than a Ranger or Aerostar with a 7.5 rear axle.
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Old October 18th, 2006, 03:20 PM   #3
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Do you have any specs on what the actual width of the rear ends are from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface? I don't have a rear end to compare to so those specs aren't giving me an idea of how wide it is.

Thanks!

Ted
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Old October 18th, 2006, 04:07 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Ted J
Do you have any specs on what the actual width of the rear ends are from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface? I don't have a rear end to compare to so those specs aren't giving me an idea of how wide it is.

Thanks!

Ted
I'm looking thru my notes to see. I'll let you know if I find something.
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Old October 18th, 2006, 04:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Darrell
Originally Posted by Ted J
Do you have any specs on what the actual width of the rear ends are from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface? I don't have a rear end to compare to so those specs aren't giving me an idea of how wide it is.

Thanks!

Ted
I'm looking thru my notes to see. I'll let you know if I find something.
Sweet, thank you so much. I haven't been able to find anything in regards to measurements and the ones I have listed above was from somebody that measured it on the rear end I'm looking to buy from him! :-)
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Old October 18th, 2006, 04:29 PM   #6
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Ted, 79-93 Mustangs use a 57 inch wide rear axle. 94-98 Mustangs use a 58.5 inch wide rear axle. 99 and newer Mustangs use a 59 7/8 inch wide rear axle. Lincoln Mark7 LSC, SVO Mustang and Fox Body Saleens use a 59.5 inch wide rear axle. Hope this helps.
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Old October 18th, 2006, 10:50 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Darrell
Ted, 79-93 Mustangs use a 57 inch wide rear axle. 94-98 Mustangs use a 58.5 inch wide rear axle. 99 and newer Mustangs use a 59 7/8 inch wide rear axle. Lincoln Mark7 LSC, SVO Mustang and Fox Body Saleens use a 59.5 inch wide rear axle. Hope this helps.
You rock Darrell, that's exactly the info I was looking for.

Not counting the fender lips that can be rolled back my crude measurement (meaning a I dropped a plum bob down from the inside of the fender lip and then lined the slicks up behind the car as square as I could) I got a measurement of 56.25" from the wheel mounting surfaces. With each side having a 1/2" lip that can be hammered up it looks like the '86-'93 8.8" out of a fox body will do the trick!

That is if I'm correct in thinking that the '86 - '93's had the 8.8's on the 5 spd 5.0's, right? I thought I read somewhere that the '79-'85's only had the 7.5" when they rolled off the showroom floor.

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Old October 18th, 2006, 10:54 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Ted J
That is if I'm correct in thinking that the '86 - '93's had the 8.8's on the 5 spd 5.0's, right? I thought I read somewhere that the '79-'85's only had the 7.5" when they rolled off the showroom floor.

Ted
that is correct. all 79-85 cars had 7.5's in both the v8 and inline cars. The 86 & up V8 cars had 8.8's. the 4cyl cars still had 7.5's
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Old October 18th, 2006, 11:19 PM   #9
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Ted, you can shorten the axle if need be and still keep the stock mounting points. I assume you will be getting aftermarket axles since you are running slicks? If so, order them about an inch shorter than stock and have a reputable chassis shop jig up your housing and shorten it accordingly. That's what they did to my rear end when they built it.

When you roll the fender lips use a wooden baseball bat. It is the only sure way to not damage the quarter panels. Using a hammer and dolly will kink the quarters believe it or not. Stick the bat between the tire and fender lip. Have someone (the heavier the better) sit on the car over the tire and have someone else push the car back and forth. You control the bat and direct the guy pushing the car. Keep the bat on a sharp angle toward the ground. After about 10 passes back and forth the lip will be rolled up real nice like it came that way from the factory. If you have good paint and don't want any chips, take a razor blade and cut a line thru the paint to bare metal down the middle of the fender lip. This will help keep the cracking and chiping toward the inside where nobody will see it.
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Old October 19th, 2006, 07:36 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Darrell
Ted, you can shorten the axle if need be and still keep the stock mounting points. I assume you will be getting aftermarket axles since you are running slicks? If so, order them about an inch shorter than stock and have a reputable chassis shop jig up your housing and shorten it accordingly. That's what they did to my rear end when they built it.
I think I might have gotten lucky and won't need to shorten the axles or the run wheels with different back spacing. I'm trying to keep the parts as stock as possible for with the plan of doing WOT launches I might end up breaking things!

I won't be using any of the stock mounts that I'm aware of. Looking into maybe doing a 4 link or a ladder bar type set up. Again, this is a all custom project and it's not being put into anything that was made in america so it won't just bolt right up. I'm going to have to fabricate up the rear suspension.

I might just borrow a 7.5 rear end from a friend who has an early 80's stang and bolt the slicks up to it and see how it fits in the car. That is if hte 7.5's have the same width as the 8.8's which it sounds like they do.


Originally Posted by Darrell
When you roll the fender lips use a wooden baseball bat. It is the only sure way to not damage the quarter panels. Using a hammer and dolly will kink the quarters believe it or not. Stick the bat between the tire and fender lip. Have someone (the heavier the better) sit on the car over the tire and have someone else push the car back and forth. You control the bat and direct the guy pushing the car. Keep the bat on a sharp angle toward the ground. After about 10 passes back and forth the lip will be rolled up real nice like it came that way from the factory. If you have good paint and don't want any chips, take a razor blade and cut a line thru the paint to bare metal down the middle of the fender lip. This will help keep the cracking and chiping toward the inside where nobody will see it.
I hear ya on the rolling of the fender lip with a bat. Was going to look into doing that later once I have an idea of if the set up will even fit in the back of the car yet. I guess I could always try running smaller slicks but the ones I've borrowed from a friend of mine seem to be a nice size. They are close to stock size for the tires on a stang stock and fit in the fender wells nicely but they also seem like they should be good to hook some nice 60' times and hopefully give me at least 10's if not maybe hitting that oh so sought after single dight 1/4 mile time! Time will tell if that will happen or not though, and if I have enough money to do it! ha ha

Thanks again for all of the info!
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Old October 19th, 2006, 08:15 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Darrell
Ted, 79-93 Mustangs use a 57 inch wide rear axle. 94-98 Mustangs use a 58.5 inch wide rear axle. 99 and newer Mustangs use a 59 7/8 inch wide rear axle. Lincoln Mark7 LSC, SVO Mustang and Fox Body Saleens use a 59.5 inch wide rear axle. Hope this helps.
With that info you just posted up, does that mean the wheels for the Fox Body Saleen's have different backspacing I'd assume? The 15" aluminum fox body wheels my friend has the slicks mounted on has 5" of back spacing, does that sound right? Was thinking maybe if the rear end is wider on the saleen fox body's that I might be able to use those wheels to get the slicks in the right spot if needed. Just an idea.
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Old October 19th, 2006, 08:26 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Ted J
That is if hte 7.5's have the same width as the 8.8's which it sounds like they do.
Yes they are.



Just remember, stock parts + fast = alot of broken parts.
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Old October 19th, 2006, 09:03 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Darrell
Originally Posted by Ted J
That is if hte 7.5's have the same width as the 8.8's which it sounds like they do.
Yes they are.



Just remember, stock parts + fast = alot of broken parts.
stock parts + fast = alot of broken parts
custom sized parts + fast = hopefully strong enough rear end but if things do break then custom parts will have to be made to replace them.
stock sized parts replaced with stronger ones + fast = hopefully strong enough rear end but if things do break I won't have to be custom made
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Old August 7th, 2011, 11:30 PM   #14
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I know this thread is old but where do you measure to find out the width of the rear end? I just picked one up from a guy for $80 and was told it was out of a 99-04 gt but the tag says different. any help would be appreciated.
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Old August 8th, 2011, 07:05 PM   #15
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Bump....
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