[galzamar]

I just installed a torker 289 and a edelbrock 1405 600cfm carb on my 302 HO.
The car now will only run with Full choke, as soon as I let out of choke it sputters and dies, I checked the timming and it is fine everything seems to be good but still wont run with out choke. any ideas what is the problem I have tired to make the mixture as rich to as lean as I can go no change.

[e3sean]

getting too much air maybe

[galzamar]

I checked for leaks only thing is the evap canister and the advance for the distributor everything else is fine no leaks. I am going to try and retime it to tomorrow, right now I have it set at base of 10 BTC, the carb is not new also so I might have some tarnish buildup on the jets maby, (I hope not I dont want to rebuild the carb).

Also when it did run with full choke it was burring white smoke.

I also have read that the ballencers have a dendency to move and might make it hard to time correctly and that I should just time it to what makes the car run nice and not even worry about what the numbers say.

[1slo5.0]

Sounds like you have a big vacuum leak somewhere........or a bad carb.

[trueblue01]

Originally Posted by Darrell Sounds like you have a big vacuum leak somewhere........or a bad carb.

^+1

[1FUN4RD]

Sounds like the carb is crap.. try screwing the A/F adjusting screws farther in & see if that improves things.. A general rule of thumb is to screw them in untill they stop (do not over tighten!) then back them of 1 & 1/2 turn..

[alabamastanger]

My carb was running good until now the throttle cable will not open/close the plate on the top of the carb...sorry to be a thread jacker.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 1FUN4RD Sounds like the carb is crap.. try screwing the A/F adjusting screws farther in & see if that improves things.. A general rule of thumb is to screw them in untill they stop (do not over tighten!) then back them of 1 & 1/2 turn..

The rule is to adjust the screws until you get the highest vacuum.

[ujslost]

Originally Posted by Darrell The rule is to adjust the screws until you get the highest vacuum.

Yep thats the only way your gonna get it set like its suppose to be.
I suggest buying a holley and getting the new holley tuning dvd also if your new to carbs.

[vfast]

your intake maybe leaking

Originally Posted by galzamar I just installed a torker 289 and a edelbrock 1405 600cfm carb on my 302 HO. The car now will only run with Full choke, as soon as I let out of choke it sputters and dies, I checked the timming and it is fine everything seems to be good but still wont run with out choke. any ideas what is the problem I have tired to make the mixture as rich to as lean as I can go no change.

[galzamar]

Ok well I exchanged my carb for a new edelbrock 1405 and still having the same problem.

I have my firing order as said on other threads with the HO 302 13726548 with 1-4 on passenger side and 5-8 on driver side, I tried 13726548 like in a non HO and that didnt work.

So my question is from what the distributor was set to before I worked on it was that #1 plug was at the 2ish oclock position and the plugs went counter clockwise 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. This is from another thread is this correct?

[vfast]

your 1 tooth off...the white smoke issue has me leading to a manifold gasket issue

[trueblue01]

If it still only runs with the choke closed, it's a vacuum problem.

[galzamar]

Well this is funny story. My Instructor in college that has been working for a dealship for 25 years did the TDC of cyl 1 and so I went back today to make sure that it was correct and he got it 180 out of time he got it on the exhaust stroke. So now it is running fine but now I just got to tune the carb so it will idle, it will only run with my foot on the acc now. but for shits and grins I got new wires plugs and found out that I had a pin missing for my vac assist so I went and got a new distributor as well. Thanks for all the help guys.

[galzamar]

Well have to love this . . . I got it all running and started hearing lifters chatter so I put a pressure sensor on the oil pump. NADA pulled the filter off it was dry. So i took the distributor out and the dam oil pump shaft was just chilling not attached to the oil pump. SIGH . . . So now looks like I got to pull the motor to see if the oil pump is broke or just the shaft came out pump gear. And I have to have the dam double sump pan so it is going to be a bitch to get out . . .

Any tricks that anyone knows of to get it done easier, Mitchell on demand says to disconnect all the extra stuff and pull the motor and put blocks in between the frame motor mounts and the mounts on the car. Is that gonna be enough clearance to disconnect the pickup tube and get the pan out?

[Caddpro]

The shaft does not "attach" to the pump. It just sits down in the oil pump "socket". Depending on how long you ran the engine without oil you could have screwed the pooch. As far as removing the pan, if you have an engine hoist (cherry picker is what I call it) loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine using the hoist to gain clearance between the k-member and the block. Watch out for the firewall clearance and any items that may be in the way. Good luck.

[ryans88gt]

If your oil filter was dry and you were running it for more than like 2-3 minutes total...don't bother trying to pull the pan off, you are going to need a complete rebuild.

[trueblue01]

^+1

[galzamar]

Got the shaft back in and took it up to the ford dealership were my girlfriend works as a mechanic and they looked they took out the pan and looked it over said everything was fine. . . guess 27 years of tarnish saved me lol . . . it was only ran about a mile but if it was a new motor I would of been screwed.

So now that all the BS for the carb swap is done now to the 2inch drop and finishing up the interior and carbon fiber dash.

[ryans88gt]

So did you figure out why the oil wasn't pumping? Bad oil pump? Plugged screen?