[qwkvert]

I just brough my 89 vert home with her new heart, a 383w with a set of TFS R heads and a 282nitrous cam. It pulls so hard from a lug, I only wish this woulda done this mod first. will get a video as soon as it is broken in. Oh, the 282 cam sounds like stock in this thing due to the cubes I guess.

[1982matthew]

I'm in break in period with my new engine also, it sucks I just want to hammer on it..lol

[ryans88gt]

break in for 30 minutes, drive for 25-50 miles at varying speeds, change the oil and your done.

Then feel free to beat the piss out of it. A lot of people these days break there engines in on a Dyno, after 5 minutes of varying speeds they immediately go to full throttle rips and tuning.

[qwkvert]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt break in for 30 minutes, drive for 25-50 miles at varying speeds, change the oil and your done. Then feel free to beat the piss out of it. A lot of people these days break there engines in on a Dyno, after 5 minutes of varying speeds they immediately go to full throttle rips and tuning.

that is what I am doing. I am just waiting to get to work tomorow to change the oil, and bang it out!!!! It pulls so hard just going to 5k that I cant even imagine what it is gonna do when I spin it up to 7k.

[qwkvert]

ryans88gt... what is ur take on teflon oil additives in a performance motor? My company sells an additive that I have seen first hand really makes everything like "ice on ice" internally. You add it to the oil change, then add it to every other or third after.

[1982matthew]

shit man I was told to only take mine to like 3000 I wish I would have even felt 5 grand...

[qwkvert]

Well to give an update.... An unpatient sort that I am...I drove the vert with the wife to Church tonite, and as I am merging onto the interstate, a new body mustang pulls up to me and drops the gears. Fealing that I should not insult him by not answering his callout, I dropped it to 3rd and we were off. wife slams back into the seat and pretty red gt is no where to be seen......as I am shifting into 5th, I hear this beast screaming up to my door, and he edges past...
we slow down to about 50 or so and holler about what we got, and he is procharged and intercooled. sounded really nasty. I told him I was just motor but stroked 351 and we took off again. left him by a good 10 cars or so, but he always catches back up by the 5th gear shift and edges by. at aroung 130-135 or so...I didnt rev it past 6k at all, so it may have had a little more in it if I woulda streatched them out a little more, but he woulda caught me eventually anyway. I am VERY happy with the results.........

[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by qwkvert ryans88gt... what is ur take on teflon oil additives in a performance motor? My company sells an additive that I have seen first hand really makes everything like "ice on ice" internally. You add it to the oil change, then add it to every other or third after.

The only additive I ever use is lucas oil stabilizer. 1/2 quart to 4 1/2 quarts of 10w 30 conventional oil.

Don't run any additives until like after the second oil change. They will slow down the break in process.

[qwkvert]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt The only additive I ever use is lucas oil stabilizer. 1/2 quart to 4 1/2 quarts of 10w 30 conventional oil. Don't run any additives until like after the second oil change. They will slow down the break in process.

thanks for the advise...

[qwkvert]

oh, my builder told me I should run 20-50? what do you think?

[ryans88gt]

NOOOOOOOOOOOO Well do you have an oil pan heater? Cause that is what you need to run 20w50. Otherwise it is so thick at say 50 degrees that it takes a full minute or so to fully lube the top of the engine. There is no reason to run 20 w 50 ever unless you have a real oil burner on its last leg or you live in mexico and it is summer. 20w50 during break in will keep the cam from getting splash lubed and could result in lobe or lifter failure.

[qwkvert]

thanx again. I will be putting 5w30 penzoil in it in the morning.

[trueblue01]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt NOOOOOOOOOOOO Well do you have an oil pan heater? Cause that is what you need to run 20w50. Otherwise it is so thick at say 50 degrees that it takes a full minute or so to fully lube the top of the engine. There is no reason to run 20 w 50 ever unless you have a real oil burner on its last leg or you live in mexico and it is summer. 20w50 during break in will keep the cam from getting splash lubed and could result in lobe or lifter failure.

Gotta call "Bull-Shit" on this one. Somebody set me straight sometime back. Straight 50 could create issues without some type of oil pre heater if it's cold out, not 20-50. Do your own test and put a quart of 20-50 in the freezer (if your married, don't let your wife catch you) and put a quart of straight 50 in as well, then try to pour them 2 hours later.

MULTI-VISCOSITY OILS
Viscosity refers to a liquid's resistance to flow, or in the case of motor oil, how well it flows at low and high temperatures. Oil with a high viscosity can't flow as quickly to engine parts at lower temperatures. A lower-viscosity oil is more likely to fail at high temps.
Multi-viscosity oils (sometimes called multi-weight or multi-grade) were created to provide the best characteristics of high and low viscosity. It's a common misconception that multi-viscosity oil changes weight-thickening or thinning-as temperature changes (e.g. that 20W-50 oil will be a 20-weight when it's cold and a 50-weight when it's hot). What really happens is that polymers used to create multi-grade oil chemically react to inhibit thinning at high temperatures. At an operating temperature of 212 to 215 degrees, 20W-50 oil will not thin more than 50-weight oil would at that temperature and will have the characteristics of 50-weight when it's hot, but will never be thicker than the 20W base weight.

[ryans88gt]

Sure, you go ahead and run 20w50 in your car, better yet, do it in the winter, let me know how that works out for you...lol

[ryans88gt]

Just so you know the facts, the viscosity of 20w-50 is more than double the viscosity of 10w-30 at all temperatures. Which means, yes, it takes significantly longer to get pumped up to the rockers and valve train and even when it gets there it doesn't coat the parts as efficiently when it is cold. Also it reaches its pour point at -20*F, which means in the winter, 20w-50 is so thick you cannot pour it...yeah, like in your freezer...yeah, like you cannot pour it.

If you want to get physical properties of some common oils go to this website and see for yourself. Search 20w-50 and 10w-30 and compare.

Online Materials Information Resource - MatWeb

By the way, I have a little experience in chemistry (like 12 years), and I can guarantee this "that polymers used to create multi-grade oil chemically react to inhibit thinning at high temperatures" sounds like something an internet expert made up.

[1982matthew]

Ryan why do you always have to lie

[trueblue01]

I run 20w-50 and have done so for the past 3 years. I pulled the main caps this spring and guess what? Perfect! If his engine builder tells him what to run so be it. Mine carries 80 lbs cold and 50 lbs at operating temp. Guess I must have F***ED up somewhere when I built it. Do some more research and get back to me. And thanks for the link but I have plenty of my own already.

[ryans88gt]

No engine builder I know would recommend 20w50, but then again I don't know any engine builders.

Good luck with your 20w50 and 80 PSI oil pressure. Thats a good way to strip a distributor gear and trash an engine.

BTW I see 55 PSI cold and 50 PSI at operating temp with 10w30.