[86_Notch]

Originally Posted by nasty92LX i have stock v8 springs on the rear with 4 banngers in the front. I also have lakewood 90/10's in the front and 50/50 in the rear with south side bars.

i ran that setup on a capri i used to own, it hooked up awesome, my only complaint was that it was pretty rough on the street ( i had stock rear shocks on the back and they could've been worn out )

[Darrell]

Originally Posted by zincsvtcobra Dragstrip only

If you want the best go with Team Z Motorsports or Baseline Suspensions double adjustable uppers and adjustable lowers and anti roll device. Make sure you set everything up properly. Those two companies make the best stock suspension Mustang parts. Run stock V8 rear springs. Some Strange adjustable shocks are a nice addition too but not absolutely necessary.

Team Z Motorsports
Baseline Suspensions

Here is some reading material that I highly recommend to anyone wanting to improve a Mustang suspension. Just reading this will make you faster. I mean that too. Once you learn how the Mustang suspension works you will be able to make it work better. Read it all.

BaselineSuspensions.com.........Launching A Drag Car
BaselineSuspensions.com.........Setting Pinion Angle
BaselineSuspensions.com.........Setting Suspension Preload
Common Tech Questions about UCA Kit

[Darrell]

Originally Posted by BUGMAN He is correct. Now that's a budget build that has been proven. If ya wanna go even cheaper take your factory uppers and lowers off and box them in. I was cutting 1.38 short times with factory boxed in control arms and they worked great. That particular car had 4 cyl. shocks on the front and rear also. Very little aftermarket parts were on it.

You went 1.38 with factory lowers? What did you do about the front control arm bushings?

[Darrell]

Originally Posted by chvyeter I love my UPR rear suspension kit I purchased. No complaints at all with it. I've got 4 cyl springs in the rear and coil overs in the front with 90/10 and 50/50's. The front end bounced badly when launching and all the way down the track unloading the rear tires several times. I'll be going with a better strut that's adjustable soon. Still managed a 6.6 @ 106 having to let out the throttle once to recover...just got out of the groove.

Your suspension will work more efficiently with V8 springs in the rear. You are wasting horsepower when the car squats.

[BUGMAN]

Originally Posted by Darrell You went 1.38 with factory lowers? What did you do about the front control arm bushings?

Poly made by energy suspension I do believe. They held fine for the 15-20 passes that I made on them. I also have never had additional after market battle/torque box components except in one car and it is one of our slowest. I do however connect the factory tack welds so they are welded all the way around.

If you go out and but the Poly bushings they cost as much as a good set of control arms but these came from a parted out car along with the control arms.

I don't do this anymore and probably never will but when a budget doesn't call for $300 control arms then you have to do what ya can.

Oh that car also had radial tires on it then and still does. 275/50/15

Same that are on this coupe below with factory suspension and our 15 yr old son driving. Also the T-Top in my avatar with my wife driving.

[fogged306]

Originally Posted by Darrell Team Z Motorsports Baseline Suspensions BaselineSuspensions.com.........Launching A Drag Car BaselineSuspensions.com.........Setting Pinion Angle BaselineSuspensions.com.........Setting Suspension Preload Common Tech Questions about UCA Kit

Great reads!

[Darrell]

Originally Posted by BUGMAN Poly made by energy suspension I do believe. They held fine for the 15-20 passes that I made on them. I also have never had additional after market battle/torque box components except in one car and it is one of our slowest. I do however connect the factory tack welds so they are welded all the way around. If you go out and but the Poly bushings they cost as much as a good set of control arms but these came from a parted out car along with the control arms. I don't do this anymore and probably never will but when a budget doesn't call for $300 control arms then you have to do what ya can. Oh that car also had radial tires on it then and still does. 275/50/15 Same that are on this coupe below with factory suspension and our 15 yr old son driving. Also the T-Top in my avatar with my wife driving.

Just poly bushings or did someone reconstruct the arm to replace the oval front bushing with a round bushing? Those oval bushings are wheel hopping SOBs.

I don't ever use aftermarket torque boxes either. As long as the factory boxes aren't rotted you can weld up the seems and they will be plenty strong. We weld the lowers solid, weld all around the uppers and tie both the uppers and lowers into the roll cage as well. No failures in 10 years of doing it this way.

[BUGMAN]

Originally Posted by Darrell Just poly bushings or did someone reconstruct the arm to replace the oval front bushing with a round bushing? Those oval bushings are wheel hopping SOBs. I don't ever use aftermarket torque boxes either. As long as the factory boxes aren't rotted you can weld up the seems and they will be plenty strong. We weld the lowers solid, weld all around the uppers and tie both the uppers and lowers into the roll cage as well. No failures in 10 years of doing it this way.

Yup... There are a ton of inexpensive secrets out there.

Just the poly bushings but that is the only time I did it and when I took them out they were really loose in the center hole.