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Discussing rocker adjustment in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. ok here's the deal.. when putting together my motor I adjusted the rockers/valves ...

       

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Old April 30th, 2008, 05:03 AM   #1
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rocker adjustment


ok here's the deal.. when putting together my motor I adjusted the rockers/valves just the way everyone stated but when I attempted to start the engine I had 0 compression on all cylinders. So I backed them off till I got about 160lbs compression. I ran the engine but it doesn't quite seem right so I was going to readjust the valve train. my question is the first time I adjusted the valve train everything was not pumped up....so could that be the reason nothing "settled"?

from what I understand when you preload the valve train sometimes it will actually open the valve but after a few minutes everything will settle and the valve will close.. is this true??
 

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Old April 30th, 2008, 09:30 AM   #2
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actually in order for the lifter to pump up it has to be able to move. If you already have some preload set with the hydraulic lifter bottomed out then you have gone tooooo far. give this a try.
1. Back out all your rocker so they are loose.
2. Run your engine up on TDC for the #1 cylinder.
3. That will ensure both valves are closed.
4. It doesn't matter which valve you start with, but just roll the push rod in your fingers and tighten rocker down until it takes all the slack out. but be sure your not collapsing the lifter.
5. at that point the valve is set without any preload.
6. go anywhere from a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn farther and it should be ok.
7. do the other valve
8. rotate engine 1/4 turn and do the next cylinder in the firing order
9. repeat this until you have set all the rockers

It is always a good idea to soak your lifters if you pulled them out. This will help them pump up once installed.
 
Old April 30th, 2008, 12:52 PM   #3
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that is the exact procedure I used when putting the motor together in the first place that didn't work. could it react differently now that I have actually run the motor?
 
Old April 30th, 2008, 05:10 PM   #4
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Then you did something wrong.

The lifter plunger is spring loaded and that spring is all you are preloading. As soon as you feel slight resistance to spining the pushrod that is zero lash. Then you only need 1/2 turn from there. In order to hang the valves open enough to get 0 compression, you went way way too far with the rockers.
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Old April 30th, 2008, 05:16 PM   #5
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I tried it again and didn't get 0 compression but I still go really low compression.. I finally just got it to 0 lash and left it. seems to be running alright except I don't know how to tune a carb..
 
Old April 30th, 2008, 05:19 PM   #6
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Do you have hydraulic lifters or solid lifters? Sounds like you have a solid lifter motor.
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Old April 30th, 2008, 05:36 PM   #7
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hydraulic lifters
 
Old April 30th, 2008, 05:52 PM   #8
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What type of rocker setup are you adjusting? stud or pedistal, if pedistal you might need shims.
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Old April 30th, 2008, 05:59 PM   #9
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Read through comps article its much better than me typing the adjustment procedure. If you follow it carefully you should be all set.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../Files/151.pdf
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Old April 30th, 2008, 06:02 PM   #10
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they are pedestal mount 1.6 comp cam roller rockers
 
Old April 30th, 2008, 06:09 PM   #11
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could my lifters be shot?
 
Old May 1st, 2008, 02:44 AM   #12
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If you practically tighted them down like hell, I wouldn't be asking if your lifters are ok, I will be worrying about that cam. If I were you, I would just call a friend who has does that before and get em to do it or you could do this ONLY AS A STARTER...

Loosen all the bolts on the rockers, hand tighten (Don't he-man finger tighten), after you did that, take your rachet and ONLY TIGHTEN BY TURNING 1/4 AND MOVE TO THE NEXT. After you have that, crank it over for a little bit until you see oil pumping out and stop, then you will have to either do it the old school way and that starting the car and tighten down until you don't hear the rattling from the rocker or make it easier and follow instructions from a friend or something. YOU DON'T WANT TO OVERTIGHTEN, you will have a lifter busted to nacho's and a cam you can pretty much pull out from the top of the motor figurablly speaking.
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Old May 1st, 2008, 03:53 AM   #13
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I adjusted them as though they were solid lifters and all seems well. I guess they could be solid since I didn't really inspect before reinstalling..I guess I just assumed they were hydraulic. we all know what that does.
 
Old May 1st, 2008, 05:13 AM   #14
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theoretically if they were solid lifters and that is a hydraulic cam how bad would that be together?
 
Old May 1st, 2008, 07:42 AM   #15
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It would have less slack, and be as if the ramp angles were more radical.
 
Old May 1st, 2008, 08:34 AM   #16
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but solid lifters wouldn't damage the cam?
 
Old May 1st, 2008, 06:41 PM   #17
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Pedestal mount rockers are non-adjustable. You are supposed to torque them to 18 ft/lbs.

If you need to adjust the valve train, then you need shorter pushrods or shims under the rockers.
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Old May 1st, 2008, 07:56 PM   #18
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Time to determine just what you have and what you have done. What heads? Pedestal mount rockers... What push rods? What or who's cam (brand, hyd. or mech., roller or flat tappet, all very important). As Ryan stated, pedestal rockers are not adjustable, bolts MUST be torqued to 18-24 ft. lbs. period. You CAN NOT mix hyd. roller, mech. roller, hyd. flat tappet or solid tappet in any way, shape or form. What you do from this point depends on what you have.
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Old May 1st, 2008, 07:57 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by thethirdmurph View Post
but solid lifters wouldn't damage the cam?
Most likely.............yes it would
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Old May 2nd, 2008, 01:57 AM   #20
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I'm sorry I was mistaken..my rockers are def adjustable.. what differences are there betw a solid cam and a hydraulic cam? is there any way to tell without pulling the cam itself out?
 
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