[Rustbelt]

how much time would i loose off a 1/4 mile for a bad egr. there is no way that with my upgrades i should have a 16sec@87mph 1/4 mile. given i'm not hooking up well but i got slower by 2 sec. i should have shaved 2 sec ( ok not really but close)

upgrades: 65mm TB, explorer upper and lower, gt40p heads, "p" shorty headers.

[nba1341]

yea that is really rally really slow for those mods what was your 60'?

[TurboLX]

Whats the elevation of your track?

[ujslost]

the egr should have no direct effect on your ET

[fogged306]

The computer disables your EGR during WOT anyway so the only thing a bad EGR hurts is MPG... which might be a wise investment with gas at 4 bucks.

[Rustbelt]

I have no idea about the elevation... i think its around 350-400'. I didnt write down the 60' time it wasnt good but it wasnt that bad to have the 16 sec 1/4 mile. all my times are done via a vericom unit. i have access to an abandoned road .4 mile long and gated!

i thought that fogged, thanks.

there has to be a problem some where.

[fogged306]

I would go to a track and get a timeslip. Your 60' time is a good indicator of how much you're losing off the line. Check your basics too.. timing, if added timing what gas are you using, new plugs and wires, proper gap on the plugs, what tires and how do they look, what rear suspension are you using, ect.. The car might feel faster, but if you are losing enough grip off the line your time can be slower than before the mods.

[smott]

87 mph is what scares me.. ur trap speed is a good indication of the potential of your car after you figure ur 60 ft and shifting into the equation.

[ryans88gt]

If you EGR is stuck wide open that could be a problem, but I don't think it could be a 2 second problem, let alone a 4 second problem.

Timing? Distributor a tooth off?

[Rustbelt]

going to check the timing this weekend. i still run 87 oct. i cant afford 93!!!! tires are new and good psi. next run i'll run them a little softer to try to hook better. the track is kinda far thats why the owner lets me use his property. shifting is no prob. its an auto. going to check the fluid level on that too. if the weather holds i'll run another 1/4 mile and get all the times. thanks

[flattusmaximus78]

so you ran a 14 something before. But you expected to run low 12's with just heads?

[ujslost]

I went from 14.0 or there abouts to a best of 12.95 with typhoon intake and dickflow heads

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Rustbelt I have no idea about the elevation... i think its around 350-400'. I didnt write down the 60' time it wasnt good but it wasnt that bad to have the 16 sec 1/4 mile. all my times are done via a vericom unit. i have access to an abandoned road .4 mile long and gated! i thought that fogged, thanks. there has to be a problem some where.

So you are saying you didn't run this at the track and get a timeslip? Don't bother comparing anything from a Gtech or any similar device. I haven't seen any that are anywhere near accurate. I bet that is your problem. Your combination should have no problem running high 13s on street tires.

[Rustbelt]

hey darrell, i agree gtach and others are not accurate. the vericom unit is accurate. a drag strip would be best but not easy to get to. i agree i should be in the high 13's. i was running 14.9-15.2 before the heads and intake.

darrell the car is a SD car still, would a vaccum leak throw things off that much?

[BWAL]

i don't know what the problem is, but keep doing whatever you're doing. i finally found a 5.0 that is slower than mine.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Rustbelt hey darrell, i agree gtach and others are not accurate. the vericom unit is accurate. a drag strip would be best but not easy to get to. i agree i should be in the high 13's. i was running 14.9-15.2 before the heads and intake. darrell the car is a SD car still, would a vaccum leak throw things off that much?

I don't see how the Vericom is any more accurate than a Gtech. They opperate in similar ways. You won't know what the ET of the car is until you run it at a race track. Using a computer device on an abandoned road will get you close at best. Also if we assume the device you are using is 100% accurate, you will still not have near the same ET as you would at a race track because you are not on the same racing surface. Most race tracks have a concrete launch pad and use VHT, track bite or some other traction compound. My guess is you have a combination of an inaccurate device measuring your ET and MPH and a poor racing surface causing your high ET and low MPH.

A vacuum leak can make a big deal on any car. Did you hook the MAP sensor back up when you reinstalled the heads and intake?