[ujslost]

I believe all double pumper carbs are mechanical secondary not vac. Without knowing the heads a little bit better I think a 750 is a wee bit large. But you could jet it down I guess.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by teal89 Everyone has there own opinions ans I am so glad everyone's respectfully disagree'ing and agreeing and so forth. My current setup is... 71-74 or 74-78 351w Block .40 Keith Black Pistons (Raised Dish) Heavy Duty I-Beam connecting rods 60cc D0OE Heads 565" Cam(Brand Unknown until Tomorrow) I am highly thinking about the Edelbrock RPM intake (Darrell Here is more info on the carb, I will be getting it tomorrow too... Holley 750 Double Pumper Vac sec, Center Hung Float bowls.) Will be ordering from summit tomorrow is CCA-7835 Pushrods and SUM-HT900 Lifters. Heavy Duty Joints front and back for the flywheel I might order a new pilot bearing since the motor is out and I see it's only like 15 bucks. now Darrell what was that part number again for the Aeromotive FPR For use on carb'd motors that use EFI pumps? Also, what do you guys think of this intake... Edelbrock Streetmaster Intake for 351W....$30

The regulator is an Aeromotive part number 13254. Have you had hardened seats put in those D0OE heads yet? If not sell them on Ebay and get a set of GT40P heads instead. The carb is either a vacuum secondary or a double pumper, it can't be both. It doesn't matter what it is as long as it works. I know alot of people think that mechanical secondary (double pumpers) carburetors make more horsepower but how the secondaries are operated have nothing to do with horsepower. Both carb styles need different tuning methods. That Streetmaster intake hasn't been produced since at least the mid 80s. Its nothing more than a Torker intake. I'd pass on it and get an RPM or Victor Jr.

One of the very first engine I built for my 65 Mustang was almost identical to what you have. It was a .060 over 351W with D0OE heads that were ported and had 1.94/1.60 valves. I ran an Isky 280Megacam that had 232/232 duration at .050 and .517/.517 lift, Victor Jr intake and a Holley 3310 750 vacuum secondary carb. Everyone told me the Victor Jr. intake was going to kill all low end power. I had a different theory and ran the intake anyway. That was the day I started defying the odds. That engine had power from idle to 6400 rpm. It was a really good street engine because it was so responsive and made so much low end power. The only thing I'd do different to it today is use GT40P heads instead of the D0OE heads. And of course put EFI on it

[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by Darrell Good info except for the part about carb or EFI systems not making more or less power. There have been alot of torque losses proven over and over again on the dyno going from EFI to carb. Saying "they are just fuel delivery systems and they do not make more or less power" is like saying an intake manifold just flows air so it doesn't matter which one you use. They sure are fuel delivery systems and they sure do have an effect on how the mixture is delivered and power produced. But whatever, if you like carbs use a carb and if you like EFI use EFI.

Well Power and torque are not equivalent (there is an RPM factor in there). EFI tends to make more low end torque mostly due to intake runner design, and maybe has a small advantage at low engine speed in terms of fuel atomization. I would say a carb setup usually wins out in terms of top end power, again due more from intake runner design than anything else. There is nothing magical about a fuel injector that makes more power. Air flow potential is almost always the limiting factor for how much power a motor can make, so fuel delivery systems don't really matter as long as the correct A/F ratio can be maintained, so no it's not really the same as saying an intake manifold just flows air, its like saying it doesn't matter what water pump you use in you cooling system, which for the most part is true as long as it is capable of pumping enough coolant. I agree that you should just use whatever you feel the most comfortable with. However, before swapping over to a carb, try and find someone that tunes them in your area. It is getting harder and harder to find a good carb tuner, it is a dying art.

[teal89]

Originally Posted by Darrell The regulator is an Aeromotive part number 13254. Have you had hardened seats put in those D0OE heads yet? If not sell them on Ebay and get a set of GT40P heads instead. The carb is either a vacuum secondary or a double pumper, it can't be both. It doesn't matter what it is as long as it works. I know alot of people think that mechanical secondary (double pumpers) carburetors make more horsepower but how the secondaries are operated have nothing to do with horsepower. Both carb styles need different tuning methods. That Streetmaster intake hasn't been produced since at least the mid 80s. Its nothing more than a Torker intake. I'd pass on it and get an RPM or Victor Jr. One of the very first engine I built for my 65 Mustang was almost identical to what you have. It was a .060 over 351W with D0OE heads that were ported and had 1.94/1.60 valves. I ran an Isky 280Megacam that had 232/232 duration at .050 and .517/.517 lift, Victor Jr intake and a Holley 3310 750 vacuum secondary carb. Everyone told me the Victor Jr. intake was going to kill all low end power. I had a different theory and ran the intake anyway. That was the day I started defying the odds. That engine had power from idle to 6400 rpm. It was a really good street engine because it was so responsive and made so much low end power. The only thing I'd do different to it today is use GT40P heads instead of the D0OE heads. And of course put EFI on it

Well it doesen't have the hardened seats but that's not a problem to add, the heads are off the motor. Plus I am going to get the RPM intake since I am getting a real carb. The valve size it stock size but I have a high chamber on them so I can run my 565 as they last guy ran em that way. I'm actually not going to switch heads at the moment.

[ryans88gt]

I wouldn't worry about hardened seats unless it is a daily driver. I have well over 10K miles using unleaded gas with my cleveland heads and the cast iron seats. Haven't sunk a valve so far at 11:1 compression on 93 octane. If you do sink a valve you can always go back and add hardened seats later.

[ryans88gt]

Originally Posted by ujslost I believe all double pumper carbs are mechanical secondary not vac. Without knowing the heads a little bit better I think a 750 is a wee bit large. But you could jet it down I guess.

Can you explain how you jet down a base plate? 750 is a air flow rating of the base plate. So it flows 750 cfm of air. If this is more than required by your engine, you will have driveability problems, no matter how you jet it. Poor vacuum signal = poor carb function.

[teal89]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt I wouldn't worry about hardened seats unless it is a daily driver. I have well over 10K miles using unleaded gas with my cleveland heads and the cast iron seats. Haven't sunk a valve so far at 11:1 compression on 93 octane. If you do sink a valve you can always go back and add hardened seats later.

Hell yeah it's a daily driver. I never build anything I can't use/drive only on a one time a motnh basis. LOL Shit, I have Z06 money to get. LOL

"Sink a valve", you mean wear the valve looks like someone hammered it into the hole? I have a pair of heads that came with my motor that had one that looked like that. Also continuing my last post, here's the low down (for now until another job kicks in). I know I have the 565" cam and D0OE heads but I don't plan on smacking down on the throttle everyday because right now, all I want is the thing to turn on and go. I will get springs soon enough. Hey you see what I'm doing, if you guys got 351w stuff for sale, you know how to pm me.

I do have the stock cam as well for just in case matters but I've spring tested the D0OE heads and it came back with 260-270 something pounds. So I can use my cam, just can't punch it for to long, for very long ;-). All that's left now is the lifters and pushrods and I'm getting the carb today and Trying to locate that guy with the rpm intake for 70 bucks. Darrell or someone that has done this before, I need one of you to tell me how to baseline my timing or tell me if I am right.,.

1. Rotate the piston until the #1 piston is at the top
2. Install the ProComp Dizzy and make sure to place the rotor closest or on the lower terminal(I like to use the closest center from top of the terminal)

3. Start it and if it cranks (Hire ryan88gt to do timing ;-) )

Is that right? Also I asked a question about a couple parts a few spots up, any answers?

[teal89]

FRPP 565" Cam is the Brand. Darrell, imma show you what happens when you browse around...

eBay Motors: Hays 164 tooth billet steel flywheel 302 351 351C 351W (item 290232326931 end time May-30-08 19:37:10 PDT)

[ryans88gt]

The rotor should be exactly at 12 o'clock on the dizzy when the motor is at TDC (i.e. compression stroke, both valves closed, #1 is at the top).

Use an adjustable timing light from there, it is pretty easy.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by teal89 FRPP 565" Cam is the Brand. Darrell, imma show you what happens when you browse around... eBay Motors: Hays 164 tooth billet steel flywheel 302 351 351C 351W (item 290232326931 end time May-30-08 19:37:10 PDT)

All that shows me is a used Hayes steel Flywheel that is at $20, reserve is not met and there is 5 days and several hours remaining. By the time the auction ends it will sell for $175 or so.