[jrh_1980]

I just bought the nitrous kit from ujslost on this site. I am going to put it on my 89 LX that is efi. can i just mount the nozzle in the air intake tube before the throttle body? also, can i just hook my fuel feed up to the schrader valve on my fuel line? how much should i retard my timing to run a 100 shot? is there anything i can buy that will retard the timing for me when i arm the system? if i am using an msd 6al ign box without the msd distributor is there any other stuff i need to worry about? sorry about all the questions but I am sure there are some guys out there that would like to know this info. Thanks.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Yes you can mount the nozzle in the air tube, yes the schrader valve is fine, timing is dependent on fuel, 93 10-12*. I think youll be fine with everything else.

[The Novice]

just wondering, did ya get a wet shot or dry shot? And JBig you seem to know your Nitrous, whats the difference?

[Justincredible]

A "Dry" system uses the engines fuel system (fuel injectors) to add the required extra fuel to the nitrous, when in use.

A "Wet" system has its own fuel circuit that operates in conjunction with the nitrous circuit to add fuel when in use.

[vortechdroptop]

And I would put a fresh set a sparkplugs 1 or 2 step colder. And set it up like Jbig said u will have no problems at all.

[jrh_1980]

im just running the stock plugs for my 289 heads. I usually run 91 octane gas. it is a wet system.

[jrh_1980]

Now does that mean back it of 10 degrees? or run it at 10 to 12 degrees. I am at 14 degrees advanced right now.

[vortechdroptop]

Run it at 10 to 12

[Goblin]

Too be on the safe side (which is a good idea with Nitrous), i would pull 4 degrees out with a 100hp. If your at 14* now, bring it down to 10*. If your interested in a timing retard system to automatically pull timing only when Nitrous is being used, look into an MSD 6 BTM. Its cheap, and works pretty good.

[86_Notch]

i've run zex dry kits on several mildly modded 5.0s and i never had any problems spraying a 125 shot on 93 octane with 12 degrees initial timing. i did run a set of autolite 24s ( 1 heat range colder plugs ) and at least a 190 or 255 pump

[jrh_1980]

I have the MSD 6al box. is there anything else i can use to retard the timing from the drivers seat that won't break the bank? I am still running the stock dizzy. how can i tie in a retard module to that setup?

[ryans88gt]

Here is the real deal. At 14 degrees initial, you are running a total of 32 +/- 2 degrees of timing on a 9:1 compression motor. That is nothing. You could spray 150 at it no problem without serious detonation on 93 octane. If you witness signs of minor detonation on the plugs after a WOT run, back the timing off a few degrees. One step colder on the plugs at the most. For a 100 shot, I wouldn't even worry about plugs other than to maybe gap them a little tighter (35-40).

[jrh_1980]

I see what your saying but how much will that change since im running the 289 heads with small chambers. I know im somewhere around 10:1 compression.

[ryans88gt]

Not much. I am running 10.5:1 with 150 shot in my 351 with 34 degrees total timing and hyper pistons.

It's gone through a little nitrous in its day (150 lbs worth). When I was spraying 100, it was at 36 degrees.

Every motor is different, so if you are inexperienced, start with a 50 shot, do a WOT pass and immediately check the plugs (look online for pictures of plugs with minor detonation). If everything is good, up to 75...then 100. Baby steps ...If you see detonation back off a little on timing. The reason why I would run full timing is because my car always ran like shit with just 10 degrees base timing.

[ryans88gt]

http://oldschool.supracentral.com/repair/4-6.jpg

see the plugs with specs...this is low level detonation. Also these plugs look rich and maybe burning a little oil.

If you see lots of specs like these or the specs are shiny...that is major detonation.

specs may also look darker on a lighter colored background.

specs come from uneven flame travel that is cause by detonation. You get little areas of fuel deposition on the plugs that cause the specks. If the specs are shiny it is because you are blowing aluminum right off your pistons (not good).

[jrh_1980]

Thanks alot ryans88gt. You really know your shit. any ideas what kind of timing retard i can use to control timing from the cockpit? My plan is to use an air fuel ratio gague and a vacuum gague along with timing adjuster to tune my car for specific conditions.

[Goblin]

Ummm, am I invisible to the naked eye here? MSD 6 BTM. With that you can run your 14* base, and back the timing down only for the hit.

[jrh_1980]

I see ya goblin. Im just looking at $ on that and it is a little steep since i already have the 6al box. I don't want to spend that much for the box and have a brand new 6al box i can't use. I was looking for a piggyback system or something. what do ya think about the msd 3 stage retard for nitrous.

[ryans88gt]

Actually you need the MSD timing control module, the BTM is a boost referenced timing control only. So no boost, no timing change.

This is what you need and it works with a 6a or stock ignition

http://www.msdignition.com/tc_2.htm

[gotn20]

I agree on what ryan is saying to fullest. I have also put 20+ bottles of nitrous through my car with about 12 degrees base timing and 91 octane. I read the plugs took small steps and got it dialed in. Another thing that people new with nitrous do is jet fat thinking it'll help to make it safer. In my opinon a car jetted correctly is safer and faster than a car jetted fat.