[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by trueblue01 Low 11's will require a stroked 5.0 or if your so inclined a 351. A good quality head / intake / cam combo with the appropriate fuel support (injectors, throttle body, fuel management system) with a modest upgrade of the suspension and a gear change. It obviously can be done NA but realistically, to keep it streetable and dependable for daily use, and still attain the 11.00 range some type of power adder is gonna come into play. While giggle gas is the cheapest up front cost wise, a blower or turbo system will ultimately prove to be the most cost effective in the long run. Bottom line is budget build and 11.00 really aren't synonymous.

Low 11s doesn't require anything other than a stock short block. No need for a stroked engine or a 351W. I went 11.50s with a heads, cam and intake 5 liter in a 3300+ pound ungutted Mustang GT back in 2000. With a few hundred pounds removed that car would have been in the very low 11s. There are guys that run 10s naturally aspirated with stock short blocks. There is one guy on this site that runs 10.60s naturally aspirated with a stock short block. It takes brains, a good combination and good driving.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 78mach1 well considering your engine has 180k, its probably not in the best shape to use, so toss that idea,

Without a compression test and/or leak down test how does anyone know what kind of shape his engine is in? I bought an 88 GT in the early 90s that had 150,000 miles on it. When I sold it the car had over 180,000 miles on it. The engine now has well over 200,000 mile on it and still runs great. It is in another car now but it is still running flawlessly.

Now on the other hand if the engine is burning oil or weak I'd definitely tear it down and if money permits a 347 is the way to go. That will certainly make your goals easier and 10.70s-10.80s will be a walk in the park.

[jtyson8602]

Originally Posted by 78mach1 building a turboed car isnt cheap, your talking about methanol/water injection..... and he would be best with a big single if he was going to build a turboed car.

Big single is easy to build. I know. Im doing it. And Im making plenty of power. I have a good reliable pricey block but it could be done with something a little cheaper. and yes a methanol/water injection. not methanol run. it makes a huge difference.

[TurboLX]

Originally Posted by Darrell There are guys that run 10s naturally aspirated with stock short blocks. There is one guy on this site that runs 10.60s naturally aspirated with a stock short block. It takes brains, a good combination and good driving.

yea an his car is only like 350hp

its all in the way the car is setup

[nolife]

Originally Posted by sn94 Complete Exhaust, Slicks/Skinnies,2inch Drop, Lakewood Struts, Subframe Connectors/Upper+Lower Control Arms/Heads/Cam/Intake/Spray. In order to have a fast running car you need SUSPENSION/FUEL/AIRFLOW which im sure evreyone knows. There are so many options out there and so many places to start. When I was building my 94Gt I went the safe route and Completed the drive terrian and suspension and a few under the hood mods. Build a reliable car. Start with 31 Spline axles/3:73gear/TracLok,locker,spool/C-Clip eliminators/Dif Cover/Fresh Fluids. And then Rebuild the trans,Spec,Centerforce clutch, Lightweight Flywheel, Aluminum Driveshaft/Short throw shifter. Then start with the suspension, Eibach 2inch lowering springs, Lakewood 70/30 Struts, Lakewood upper+lower Control Arms/ Subframe Connectors/ Lakewood Driveshaft Saftey Loop. Its going to run you some money but then you have a rearend/trans/suspension that will handle and laydown the power(500+ HP. Then if money is left over,heads/cam/rockers/pushrods/intake/injectors/igntion/spray ect. Lots of info but just build something that you can enjoy and not drive for a week, break=sitting in the garage, then fix, break and so on and so forth. Goodluck and let me know the route you are going. PaT #06

I believe you missed the part asking about a low budget build.

[TurboLX]

LOL^