[wraitherlx]

I am new to the forum and was reading around and alot of you guys know alot of stuff so I signed up. I have a 89 5.0 stick that is stock with the exception of 190 lph fuel pump in it. Lately I have been having a problem with her. For the past week she has been running like crap and I cant figure it out. I'll start up the car and she will start surging while idleing. I give it a little gas and then once it gets up to around 2500 to 3500 rpm it bogs down. I hear popping coming from my exhaust sometimes. and I know that is running rich from the guage that came with the car. Also there are a couple times where at idle it will just surge until it until it gets lower and lower in RPM's until it finally cuts off. Ive replaced the plugs with copper ones, cause i read that platinums in our cars arent really all that good, new wires, msd cap and rotor, checked MAF, TPS is at 0.98 with EO. A buddy of mine told me that it might be the fuel pump sending too much fuel to the motor and it cant burn it all so he said for me to get a adjustable regulator. Im just tired of figuring out whats wrong with it and not being able to figure anything out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Tony_90fox]

try cleaning the IAC.

[wraitherlx]

should i clean it or jsut replace it. she has about 200k miles on her and was still running strong until this week. also replaced all vacum hoses and pcv and new fuel filter.

[Tony_90fox]

well, some people just replace it after that long, but if the problem just started, i dont know.

Check your timing

[wraitherlx]

my father and I already checked the timing and it is fine. Justa cant figure it out friends keep telling me the fuel regulator theory and then pro's from around the area say that it has to be a sensor somewhere in the vehicle

[Tony_90fox]

buy a regulator, and see if that solves the problem.

[mdvaldosta]

Hmmm seems you covered most of the common reasons for problems, only other thing I can think of is the ignition module. Those can be tested for free at your local auto parts store (Autozone or Advance Auto for sure).

[wraitherlx]

would that cause it to do all those problems? I just baught a ECT sensor cause the same problem was happening to my wifes POS civic and that fixed it. But not on mine. Also tried pulling up codes and nothing. Im just frustrated.

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by wraitherlx would that cause it to do all those problems? I just baught a ECT sensor cause the same problem was happening to my wifes POS civic and that fixed it. But not on mine. Also tried pulling up codes and nothing. Im just frustrated.

not being able to pull codes is a problem that needs to be addressed first. in post #2 of THIS THREAD there are ways to get around common problems with the test, for example:running the test with the clutch in, or hooking the the jumper wire between the Self-Test Input and a good ground on the chassis (rather than the SigRTN in the Self-Test Harness). the codes should give you a good idea of what's wrong. in particular, i suggest running the Cylinder Balance Test as i think your symptoms sound like a stuck open injector. could also be a faulty FPR, you may want to get a fuel pressure gauge...one that mounts on the cowl or inside the car is preferable so you can monitor pressure while driving, but one that mounts to the shrader valve will likely serve your purpose for now. let us know

[wraitherlx]

thanks for all the help, TENGRAM i will give that a try and get back to you sometime soon. Any other suggestions are more then welcome.

[TENGRAM]

i was just editing my original post to include my suggestion for a fuel pressure gauge, JIC its a faulty fuel pressure regulator. your quick reply caught me off-guard good luck man, LUK

[wraitherlx]

hey tengram, I just did the test and got these codes,
KOEO- 34
KOER- 12, 21, 34, 44, 94

Anyone got any suggestions? Can it be fixed just by replacing little parts or is it going to be a big ordeal?

[dr.gonzo]

1. check fuel pressure (make sure its right for what mods you have) too much can be bad.

2. check timing, the poping could be a backfire. unburnt gas makes its way to the exhust becuse mr.spark wasnt there at the right time and the unburt air/gas mix went out the exhuast valve to the exhuast where it was hot enough to ignite(POP!)

3.iac sometimes cleaning does no good

4. o2sensor

5.when you replaced the plugs you did remember to do it one at a time right? if you just pulled all of wires at the same time your going to need the firing order. my friend actually tried to fight with me about this. it didnt matter because the computer was "SMART". he is not so "smart" any crap, hope this helps.

6.vacuum lines/gaskets around the throttle body

also when you put in your msd. is the hold down bolt tight, if not the dist. can turn changing the timing. that is if you even pulled the dist all out.

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by wraitherlx hey tengram, I just did the test and got these codes, KOEO- 34 KOER- 12, 21, 34, 44, 94 Anyone got any suggestions? Can it be fixed just by replacing little parts or is it going to be a big ordeal?

good to see the self-test worked.

KOEO 34 - EGR Valve Position sensor voltage above closed limit. you may want to clean out the EGR ports on the EGR spacer, sometimes they get clogged. you may have a faulty sensor, or a poor connection to the sensor.

KOER 12 - RPM not within self test upper limit. generally idle too low. seems that your IAC isn't doing its job. try cleaning it out with carb cleaner. then clear codes (by disconnecting battery for ~15min). if the code comes back you might want to get a new IAC, and/or check electrical connections to ensure proper voltage.

KOER 21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor out of self test range (0.3 to 3.7vdc). if the car was indeed fully warmed up, you may have a faulty ECT.

KOER 34 - same as KOEO 34 above.

KOER 44 - Secondary Air (Smog) System Inoperative. bank one (passenger side). could be a variety of things. if all vac lines are attached and smog valves are operating right (if you need tests for these let me know), then it is probably just that your crossover tube (attached to the back of the heads) is clogged or it could simply be that your o2s are not reading the minute difference in air because they're not in perfect condition. honestly i still get the opposite of this code (94) sometimes, and it doesn't seem to affect performance or driveability.

KOER 94 - same as above but for bank two (driverside)

the codes that i would focus on initially are the KOER 12 (idle code) and the 21 (ECT code). remove and clean out the IAC and reinstall (don't forget to replace the gasket). seems like the ECT sensor is faulty, or you may want to check resistance between the terminals on the sensor. if the resistance come near the values on this chart:

then the sensor is ok and the problem is with the wiring. the EGR code i would worry about next. if the ports are clogged and/or the valve is stuck slightly open this could lead to detonation, poor driveability, etc etc. clean the valve out and the ports on the EGR spacer, reinstall (with new gasket).

after all that you should reset codes, rerun tests and let us know whats left. BTW, if you want to run the cylinder balance test, simply tap the throttle after all KOER codes have been output. good luck

[Bill]

i had most those codes and i got them figured out. i had them all except code 12.

44 & 94 code check your 2 electrical controlled vacuum valves. Could be faulty or could be as simple as missing/broken vacuum lines coming in/out of it. heres a picture of what im talking about. the two pieces are circled. there on the passenger side/strut tower.



code 21- ECT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ECT sensor. i had serioslly bad start problems and got this code and i replaced it and it was fine after that.

code 34. EGR voltage above closed limit. may have a Failed sensor, carban between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valv off its seat. i just cleaned it out

sorry i cant help on code 12. i never got that one before but the others i got and had to fix and this is what i had to do to fix them.
not saying any of ther stuff i said will help you fix your problem but that what i did to get rid of the codes and to make it run better

[wraitherlx]

thanks for all the help fellas, im gonna give all these a try and see what i come up with. ill post something with my results or just PM you guys. Thanks alot. Hopefully problem solved

[dr.gonzo]

by the way...where did you get a comp diagnos kit at and how many bones did you shell out for it. all I can find is obd for 1996 vehicals and up.

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by dr.gonzo by the way...where did you get a comp diagnos kit at and how many bones did you shell out for it. all I can find is obd for 1996 vehicals and up.

its unnecessary to buy a code scanner. all you need is a single piece of wire...here Check THIS THREAD . its free and very simple. let us know what codes you get.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by TENGRAM Originally Posted by dr.gonzo by the way...where did you get a comp diagnos kit at and how many bones did you shell out for it. all I can find is obd for 1996 vehicals and up. its unnecessary to buy a code scanner. all you need is a single piece of wire...here Check THIS THREAD . its free and very simple. let us know what codes you get.

yes!!! thats what i use. works great. if you have a functional CE light to be able to do this its so easy but you can also use a test light or multi meter.

i have the functional CE light to beable to do this and i just hook everything up and sit in my stang and cou8nt the flashes and im done.

i used some wire i got from Pep boys and got some 1/4 inch male connectors put over the wire and the male connectors into the ports to check codes.

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by Bill i used some wire i got from Pep boys and got some 1/4 inch male connectors put over the wire and the male connectors into the ports to check codes.

yeah thats awesome, i have exactly the same "fancy" jumper wire setup. i figured why not, since i use it all the time ya know? i've also had to use a paperclip before and even a staple when i was stranded once.