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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
94 GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 2,055
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need help getting off front rotors
every other car that ive done braks on the front rotor just slides off, whats the deal with these ones?
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
87 Mustang GT T-top
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 1,149
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got pictures, is ther a lot of rust? It might just be rusted stuck. try giving it a few love taps.
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#3 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
94 GT
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Location: Bay Area, Ca
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i tapped it a little but it still didnt budge, i didnt want to hit it too hard i dont have a plastic hammer, ill get pics in a few secs, ima google it
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
94 GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, Ca
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#5 |
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Enthusiast
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Beat it.
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Bart 93 Black on Black GT Kenne Bell S/C ![]() GIVE 'ER! |
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
87 Mustang GT T-top
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Well the only thing i can think of is that on my DD car, the rotors on that car have these little washers that screw on and are very thin but are made to hold the rotor tightly in place, if ya dont see those i would assume that its just rust.
If ya need to try a little WD-40,get a wire brush, brush them a little and see if ya cant get them off that ways. But from here those bolts look like they are pacticially welded on to that rotor so it might take a little muscle to break it loose. |
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
94 GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, Ca
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i figured it out, i pulled off that big grease cap and you have to unscrew the nut holding the rotor onto the spindle and pull out the bearing and the rotor slides off
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
87 Mustang GT T-top
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Ok cool, sorry i couldnt help more. Did ya end up getting the drilled performance rotors? If ya get a chance take a pic sometime when your done, im sure they'll look cool
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#9 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Gt
Not Slow
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SJ-CA, 50-ft elev.
Posts: 1,658
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, i was about to tell you to do that when i read through to your post
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2k2 Gt Eibach pro kit, bbk cold air, exhaust, 4.10s, 6k hid's |
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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You did buy new bearings right? Another note, there is a very specific method and torque requirement for putting that "big nut" and cotter pin back on when your done. I don't have a Chiltons with me but the AutoZone site has the instructions. Basically, torque it to a certain in/lb while spinning the rotor and then loosen and torque to something else + like 1/4 turn or something similar to that. You really should read it because you will have rotor/bearing problems if you try some random method.
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#11 |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bloomington, IL
Posts: 4,627
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tighten fairly tight like 10-15 ft lbs. back off a 1/4 turn, tighten to 20 in/lbs I think.
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88 GT CHI headed 351w 10.8 @ 125 - still figuring it out. 03 Cobra 2.3 whipple 10.7 @ 129 - sold it 04 Mach 1 12.7 @ 109 mostly stock - sold it 89 LX procharged 302 515 hp 497 ftlbs 10.7 @130 mph - sold it
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#12 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
94 GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, Ca
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no i didnt, i figured i dont need em , im just driving around town not road racing so i figured id spend the money else were
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94 GT - Deep Forest Green Off road X, flowmaster single chambers, typhoon intake, hurst short throw, CAI, eibach sportlines, 315s, foxbody short block ![]() |
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#13 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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#14 |
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Newbie
1991 MUSTANG GT
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 26
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I Did Not Read The Other Post But On Mustangs The Center Part Of The Rotor Is A Grease Cap That You Can Get Off With A Flat Screwdriver Clean Out Some Of The Grease Unfold The Center Pin That Is There And Take Off The Lock Nut Then Pull Out The Rotor>> Dont Forget To Change Your Ball Berrings And Seals When You Do A New Rotor Job You Can Get Away With Keeping The Old Bearings But Since You Race Your Car I Wouldent Take A Chance On Keeping The Old Part
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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ya basically just take your time, use a new cottor pin and make sure you pack your new bearings!
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#16 |
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Atomized
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,368
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be careful with drilled rotors. I had them on my old maxima and my fox and on both cars the rotors crack at all the holes. I'll post up pics tomorrow.
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#17 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 32
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Man I wish I saw this earlier.I got scared when some one said to beat the rotor off
LOLGlad to see you figured it out. The slotted rotors are nice,they clean off,cool better than the stock ones too. It any of you guys get into a jam,feel free to call the toll free # during normal business hours.I could have helped you right away with this. Tony
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#18 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
94 GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 2,055
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