[shurb125]

I'm new to the forum and was looking for experienced suggestions for modifications to a 93 LX converible, 302 5.0 HO all stock except the exhaust, the set of catylytic convertes closest to the rear of the car have been removed and it has a set of flowmasters. Looking to improve exhaust, X pipe or H pipe? Equal length headers, long tube headers or stay with factory shorties? Would like to add some speed nothing outrageous, CAI or other additions that may be suggested. Hanlding is also an issue, don't know if i need new shocks or what. I just want it to sound deep and great, faster than it is right now and handle better Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and Thank You in advance.

[Tony_90fox]

Speed = get you some 4:10 gears.
Longtube headers, off road x or h (your choice really), and just about any muffler out there will do. (SLP is pretty deep and loud)

I'm not a suspension guru so i'll let these other fanatics take over from here!

[niggadrew]

eibach has some really good setups for the fox what are you looking to do go straight or some road racing

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by shurb125 I'm new to the forum and was looking for experienced suggestions for modifications to a 93 LX converible, 302 5.0 HO all stock except the exhaust, the set of catylytic convertes closest to the rear of the car have been removed and it has a set of flowmasters. Looking to improve exhaust, X pipe or H pipe? Equal length headers, long tube headers or stay with factory shorties? Would like to add some speed nothing outrageous, CAI or other additions that may be suggested. Hanlding is also an issue, don't know if i need new shocks or what. I just want it to sound deep and great, faster than it is right now and handle better Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and Thank You in advance.

gears would really wake it up. as for exhaust...if you have to pass emissions testing go with unequal length shorties, if not go with longtubes...don't go too large on the primary tubes diameter (1 5/8 is good). for a 5oh h-pipes sound the best in my opinion...with chambered mufflers like the flowmasters x-pipes end up sounding raspy. sure a CAI is ok but first i would get underdrive pullies...best bang for the buck. as for shocks and struts the best deal is tokico HPs. not quite as good as adjustable shocks/struts or bilsteins but way better than the cheaper stuff. get the shocks/struts first or at the same time as springs...eibach, h&r, ford racing has good springs also. the important thing with springs is not necessarily the brand but getting the appropriate spring rate. i prefer specific rates but for abit more street friendly ride, progressives are good too. good luck, enjoy your stang

[Tony_90fox]

Cold Air Intakes are pretty overrated! A decent pully kit is about $80. I have mine and love them.

I didnt see what tranny you have. If its a standard: get a nice shifter (steeda tri-ax is pretty sweet) any short throw should be fun!

Auto: get a shift kit and a TC. If you do have an auto. I have BRAND NEW NEVER INSTALLED : transgo shift kit and 2200-2800 rpm TC that i'll sell for $350. I bought it for $400 and its all still new. (HINT HINT)

[95opal]

Being a vert I would get some sub frames on there asap. for some more power pullies, intake, K&N, gears, advancing the timing.

[shurb125]

It's a 5 speed transmission. We don't have emission checks her in SC. As far as the suspension is concerned the ride is just real rough, it seems to have a lot of swayand also you feel every little bump, hole etc in the road, just want a smoother ride. The 4:10 gear, will that reduce gas mileage and can you just purchase the gears and use the existing rear end housing and axles or more cost effective to purchase another rear end with 4:10 gears? Will a different belt be needed if underdrive pullies are installed?
Thanks for all the suggestions!

[95opal]

Buy the frpp ring and pinion set and have someone install it. As far as the bumpy ride , well welcome to the world of 5.0s. Mustangs are not known for their smooth ride, But if you replace the springs, shocks, and struts it will help you out. If you dont have emissions then get some LTs w/ a off road H or X.

[shurb125]

I'm having another problem, I blew ahead gasket 3 mths ago and tore the top end down and had the heads planed and had the radiator flues cleaned, new gaskets and put it all back together and now from time to time the low coolant light comes on. From time to time i have to add water to the over flow but the radiator stays full, no sign of water leaking. Is the water just evaporating or do i have a bigger problem? the overflow tank cap will not close and maybe affecting the sensor at the end of the tube could that be a possibility?

[TENGRAM]

Originally Posted by shurb125 I'm having another problem, I blew ahead gasket 3 mths ago and tore the top end down and had the heads planed and had the radiator flues cleaned, new gaskets and put it all back together and now from time to time the low coolant light comes on. From time to time i have to add water to the over flow but the radiator stays full, no sign of water leaking. Is the water just evaporating or do i have a bigger problem? the overflow tank cap will not close and maybe affecting the sensor at the end of the tube could that be a possibility?

if you're just adding water it may be evaporating. other possibilities...small crack in overflow or since the cap won't close right it may just be spilling abit. i would definitely check that there's not radiator fluid in your oil, given your previous head gasket issue. if its just spilling a little and your radiator stays filled you can "tweak" the sensor to stick higher in the overflow reservoir, to get rid of your low coolant light.

BTW, x2 on the subframe connectors...consider them necessary for verts

[shurb125]

Took the advise and suggestions and went ahead and ordered a set of the BBK underdrive pullies and a fenderwell cold air kit. Next will be the Tokico HP shocks and struts, then the sub frame connectors, any advise on type and brand. The water problem was solved also, the water pump was leaking. Thanks for all the advise and suggestions.

[Tony_90fox]

Steeda or Maximum Motorsports are both damn good brands. Also get the weld in ones. Alot stronger, and you like that in a vert.


Also, have gears on that list too, you'll like them the best!

[shurb125]

Tony_90 fox, your refering to the 4:10 gears correct? I looked into it and had a question, some adds refer to a 8.8 and 9.0, i take it to be the measurement if the differential housing, is that correct and if so i really don' know what i have but it is stock, if it is the 8.8 can i use the same housing and do i need to get the gears and a shim kit, some magazines suggest to go ahead and ge some type of kit when you put in new gears. Thanks for your help.

[Tony_90fox]

Steeda and MM are brands for subframe connectors, other brands also, but those are good.

I think Brenspeed has a damn good deal for a gear and rebuild kit. yes your rearend is a 8.8. Go to Ebay and type in: Mustang (then the gear of your choice) and then look for that gear. Try to find the one with Brenspeed as the seller. They are like $220 tops and that is shipped. Motive, Ford Motorsport, etc. Maybe somebody else will chime in with some other brands, but that should help you out alot.

Also while your in there, get a T-Loc rebuild kit for about $50.

[Mazlem]

Also check out ADTR for axle stuff. It's for the CrownVic / Grand Marquis, but they use the same 8.8" 28 spline rear-end.