[GoodOleBoyzRacin]

on the opposite side of the steering column from the ign cylinder. never changed one on a ford before but im pretty sure its the same as a GM. im sure you can check voltage comin out of there too.

[fogged306]

Off the back of the key cylinder, the red/green is the only wire that needs to be powered up for the pump, ECU, ignition, and everything else that makes the car run. There may be a black/orange that splits off the red/green at some point somewhere else, but I can assure you that at the cylinder the red/green is all you need. If the fuel pump primes, the switch is good. I deal with ignition circuits everyday of my life, trust me here. If you wanted to, you can make the car run just by powering up the red/green with a jumper wire and sending 12v to either the red/blue or white/pink (they liked to change wire colors around), which is the starter wire. The car will fire up and run just fine off power only from the red/green. The rest of the wires at the switch are accessories and 12v inputs.

[gotn20]

this kinda sounds like what my car did when my tfi went bad.

[e3sean]

Originally Posted by gotn20 this kinda sounds like what my car did when my tfi went bad.

we changed the tfi cause thats what i was thinking but we changed the tfi and i put my msd distrubitor in it and still nothing..

[fogged306]

Did you recheck that red/green at the coil to see if it went hot with ignition on?

[95opal]

No spark: Possible failed items in order of their probability

MSD or Crane ignition box (If so equipped)
Coil
TFI Module
PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. See paragraph 5A - a Noid Light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
No ECC or Computer Power - ECC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only: ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires

94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
No ECC or Computer Power - Fuse or Fuse link failure
86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness – Check to make sure that there is 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
Ignition switch - Look for 12 volts at the Ignition Coil Red/Light Green wire. If it is not reading 12 Volts: possible blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire with the switch in the Run position. If there isn’t 12 volts then the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position, then the fuse link is blown.
94-95 models only: Check inside fuse panel for fuse #18 blown – 20 amp fuse
Bad or missing secondary power ground. This ground is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Computer
Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position: Pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire on the coil with the switch in the Run position. If reading 12 volts, then replace the TFI. If not reading 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.

[fogged306]

You know that post ^ made me think of something really simple to check... the block ground. If the block isn't grounded, you won't get any spark.

[e3sean]

Originally Posted by fogged306 You know that post ^ made me think of something really simple to check... the block ground. If the block isn't grounded, you won't get any spark.

lol that was the first thing i checked... anyways i fixed it it is exactly what i thought it was... it was a short in the -coil wire whoever hooked all that crap up previously really did some dumb shit... i fixed it as much as the right way as i could but it runs as good as ever now.

thanks everyone for all your responses very good things for troubleshooting a no spark problem so i hope some others got some good info from it.

[Twist it up]

they did have a recall on the ignition switch also... call Ford dealer and give them your VIN.