Door gap question..

TheBrat · October 2nd, 2008, 06:18 PM

Alright, so heres the thing..
I dont ever remember the gap being this tight. The door gap up top is "proper". It dosent have any rubbing issues. But right around where the trim is, and down, the door is rubbing with the fender all of a sudden. And quite bad.

I dont get it, any help?

Brett!

Breakout · October 2nd, 2008, 06:22 PM

is the fender lining up with your hood and/or bumper ok? You could loosen up your fender and tighten it back up when it's not rubbing with your door as long as everything still lines up to your liking. My buddy had the same issue with his jetta. We took the tire off, the inside plastic in his wheel wall, re-adjusted the fender and everything was perfect after.

TheBrat · October 2nd, 2008, 07:07 PM

Ya, I dont see any issues with my hood or my bumper.
But heres the thing, like, my car is a roller right now. The most it sees is when I push it around. Unless just pushing on the fenders to move it was enough to move it?
Also, does it make sence that only the bottom of the doors are rubbing?

Brett!

old gray fox · October 2nd, 2008, 07:20 PM

have you jacked it up lately ? like on the rocker panel instead of the frame rail.

fairlane_68 · October 2nd, 2008, 07:58 PM

Have you done any bodywork recently? Like subframe connectors?

95StangMX · October 2nd, 2008, 08:07 PM

yeah didnt you say you did the subframes while the tires were off the ground?

95StangMX · October 2nd, 2008, 08:08 PM

you didnt think anyone would remember that did you?...lol...thats what you get for bustin my balls about the chrysler/porsche mistake i made....lol....just messing with you bro...but seriously..that could be your problem

93hatch · October 3rd, 2008, 01:44 AM

yeah he said he welded his subframes on while the weight wasnt on the wheels, grind ur welds off ur subframes and put them back on later

trueblue01 · October 3rd, 2008, 08:30 AM

subframe connector install??????? aw shit! That pretty much answers that, get out the grinder!

TheBrat · October 3rd, 2008, 06:50 PM

Ya, I did do connectors, while it was in the air.
But heres the thing. It just started recently doing this guys, I cant just see a car that has no motor in it, and isnt going anywhere and the gap JUST on the BOTTOM falls out of gap.

Im curious if its from pushing the car around and pushing on the fenders..

Brett!

fairlane_68 · October 3rd, 2008, 07:07 PM

Originally Posted by TheBrat

Ya, I did do connectors, while it was in the air.
But heres the thing. It just started recently doing this guys, I cant just see a car that has no motor in it, and isnt going anywhere and the gap JUST on the BOTTOM falls out of gap.

Im curious if its from pushing the car around and pushing on the fenders..

Brett!

It happens as the new metal starts to fatigue into the old metal. You took newer, stronger, thicker material and welded it to older, thinner and weaker material. Never do chassis work like this if the car isn't under it's full weight...including having the engine and tranny in place.

TheBrat · October 3rd, 2008, 07:13 PM

But heres the thing, I was talking to a bud who builds racecars..
And even he said it shouldnt really do anything, since the unibody should be strong enough to hold the car since the hoist was level, and the car sat level on the hoist.

Also, my car was gutted when they were put in. No motor, no trans, no interior. Just a rear end and a body with some tires.

Brett!

fairlane_68 · October 3rd, 2008, 07:35 PM

Take it to a body shop that has a frame machine. Easier said than done, I know, but have them check the alignment. I know your guy said it shouldn't have done anything, but we're talking about a 17-year-old car with I assume alot of mileage on it. If you haven't noticed on this forum, strange things happen as cars get older.

trueblue01 · October 3rd, 2008, 07:43 PM

The unistructure is designed to flex so it's is pre-flexed or slightly arched to begin with. An exagerated example would be a large semi flat bed trailer for hauling steel, unloaded it arches upward in the middle, as weight is added it settles to level. Your unistructure is slightly arched to allow for loading, with it supported on a hoist, it was flexed upward (unloaded). You welded in sub frames and triangulated the unistructure and "froze" it, not allowing it to flex back. Cut out the subframe connectors and it will relax back, put the engine and trans back in, load the suspension and the gap will come back. That's why everyone kinda warned you about what would happen. Easy enough to figure out.

fairlane_68 · October 3rd, 2008, 07:46 PM

good example.

trueblue01 · October 3rd, 2008, 07:58 PM

My simple mind requires simple examples, thanks.

fairlane_68 · October 3rd, 2008, 08:51 PM

Originally Posted by trueblue01

My simple mind requires simple examples, thanks.

As soon as you mentioned the trailers, I knew exactly what you were talking about. I used to load those things at a steel fabricator I used to work at.

October 2nd, 2008, 06:18 PM	#1
TheBrat Regular 91 Mustang LX Fastback We shall see when she gets done.. Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Canada Posts: 443 iTrader: 0 reviews	Door gap question.. Alright, so heres the thing.. I dont ever remember the gap being this tight. The door gap up top is "proper". It dosent have any rubbing issues. But right around where the trim is, and down, the door is rubbing with the fender all of a sudden. And quite bad. I dont get it, any help? Brett! __________________ 2003 MazdaSPEED Protege. Lava Orange with all the go fast parts 1991 LX. 2.3T in the works. 1977 Pinto Wagon. New motor combo in the works for 2012, C4, 4.10s, 150 pill. Et. unkown 1969 Impala. Needs a resto. Im Canadian, Eh!

October 2nd, 2008, 07:07 PM	#3
TheBrat Regular 91 Mustang LX Fastback We shall see when she gets done.. Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Canada Posts: 443 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ya, I dont see any issues with my hood or my bumper. But heres the thing, like, my car is a roller right now. The most it sees is when I push it around. Unless just pushing on the fenders to move it was enough to move it? Also, does it make sence that only the bottom of the doors are rubbing? Brett! __________________ 2003 MazdaSPEED Protege. Lava Orange with all the go fast parts 1991 LX. 2.3T in the works. 1977 Pinto Wagon. New motor combo in the works for 2012, C4, 4.10s, 150 pill. Et. unkown 1969 Impala. Needs a resto. Im Canadian, Eh!

October 2nd, 2008, 08:07 PM	#6
95StangMX MM Fanatic 95 Mustang GT depends how many people are pushing Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Playa del Carmen, Mexico Posts: 3,243 iTrader: 0 reviews	yeah didnt you say you did the subframes while the tires were off the ground? __________________ People should think about boarding up their glass house before starting a rock fight!

October 2nd, 2008, 08:08 PM	#7
95StangMX MM Fanatic 95 Mustang GT depends how many people are pushing Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Playa del Carmen, Mexico Posts: 3,243 iTrader: 0 reviews	you didnt think anyone would remember that did you?...lol...thats what you get for bustin my balls about the chrysler/porsche mistake i made....lol....just messing with you bro...but seriously..that could be your problem __________________ People should think about boarding up their glass house before starting a rock fight!

October 3rd, 2008, 01:44 AM	#8
93hatch Banned 1992 Lx 11.39@119.24 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Az Posts: 11,644 iTrader: 0 reviews	yeah he said he welded his subframes on while the weight wasnt on the wheels, grind ur welds off ur subframes and put them back on later __________________ [QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]

October 2nd, 2008, 06:22 PM	#2
Breakout Tree Fiddy Z 2006 Nissan 350Z Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Central Florida Posts: 2,018 iTrader: 0 reviews	is the fender lining up with your hood and/or bumper ok? You could loosen up your fender and tighten it back up when it's not rubbing with your door as long as everything still lines up to your liking. My buddy had the same issue with his jetta. We took the tire off, the inside plastic in his wheel wall, re-adjusted the fender and everything was perfect after.

October 2nd, 2008, 07:20 PM	#4
old gray fox Newbie 89lx,93lx & 88gt Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: brandon,fl Posts: 18 iTrader: 0 reviews	have you jacked it up lately ? like on the rocker panel instead of the frame rail.

October 2nd, 2008, 07:58 PM	#5
fairlane_68 Regular Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 404 Blog Entries: 5 iTrader: 0 reviews	Have you done any bodywork recently? Like subframe connectors?

October 3rd, 2008, 08:30 AM	#9
trueblue01 Enthusiast 1989 Mustang LX 10.98@126.7 NA Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: N.E. Ohio Posts: 698 iTrader: 0 reviews	subframe connector install??????? aw shit! That pretty much answers that, get out the grinder! __________________ Never fast enough.

October 3rd, 2008, 06:50 PM	#10
TheBrat Regular 91 Mustang LX Fastback We shall see when she gets done.. Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Canada Posts: 443 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ya, I did do connectors, while it was in the air. But heres the thing. It just started recently doing this guys, I cant just see a car that has no motor in it, and isnt going anywhere and the gap JUST on the BOTTOM falls out of gap. Im curious if its from pushing the car around and pushing on the fenders.. Brett! __________________ 2003 MazdaSPEED Protege. Lava Orange with all the go fast parts 1991 LX. 2.3T in the works. 1977 Pinto Wagon. New motor combo in the works for 2012, C4, 4.10s, 150 pill. Et. unkown 1969 Impala. Needs a resto. Im Canadian, Eh!

October 3rd, 2008, 07:13 PM	#12
TheBrat Regular 91 Mustang LX Fastback We shall see when she gets done.. Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Canada Posts: 443 iTrader: 0 reviews	But heres the thing, I was talking to a bud who builds racecars.. And even he said it shouldnt really do anything, since the unibody should be strong enough to hold the car since the hoist was level, and the car sat level on the hoist. Also, my car was gutted when they were put in. No motor, no trans, no interior. Just a rear end and a body with some tires. Brett! __________________ 2003 MazdaSPEED Protege. Lava Orange with all the go fast parts 1991 LX. 2.3T in the works. 1977 Pinto Wagon. New motor combo in the works for 2012, C4, 4.10s, 150 pill. Et. unkown 1969 Impala. Needs a resto. Im Canadian, Eh!

October 3rd, 2008, 07:35 PM	#13
fairlane_68 Regular Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 404 Blog Entries: 5 iTrader: 0 reviews	Take it to a body shop that has a frame machine. Easier said than done, I know, but have them check the alignment. I know your guy said it shouldn't have done anything, but we're talking about a 17-year-old car with I assume alot of mileage on it. If you haven't noticed on this forum, strange things happen as cars get older.

October 3rd, 2008, 07:43 PM	#14
trueblue01 Enthusiast 1989 Mustang LX 10.98@126.7 NA Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: N.E. Ohio Posts: 698 iTrader: 0 reviews	The unistructure is designed to flex so it's is pre-flexed or slightly arched to begin with. An exagerated example would be a large semi flat bed trailer for hauling steel, unloaded it arches upward in the middle, as weight is added it settles to level. Your unistructure is slightly arched to allow for loading, with it supported on a hoist, it was flexed upward (unloaded). You welded in sub frames and triangulated the unistructure and "froze" it, not allowing it to flex back. Cut out the subframe connectors and it will relax back, put the engine and trans back in, load the suspension and the gap will come back. That's why everyone kinda warned you about what would happen. Easy enough to figure out. __________________ Never fast enough. Last edited by trueblue01; October 3rd, 2008 at 07:45 PM.

October 3rd, 2008, 07:46 PM	#15
fairlane_68 Regular Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 404 Blog Entries: 5 iTrader: 0 reviews	good example.

October 3rd, 2008, 07:58 PM	#16
trueblue01 Enthusiast 1989 Mustang LX 10.98@126.7 NA Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: N.E. Ohio Posts: 698 iTrader: 0 reviews	My simple mind requires simple examples, thanks. __________________ Never fast enough.

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