fed up with it...

usmcsawgunner · October 4th, 2008, 04:13 PM

i have a 93 gt and its been souped up quite a bit before i got it. this problem just started up and its driving me crazy because i cant put my finger on it.

when i start it up cold it dosent want to idle for crap.

when it gets warm the idle is pretty erratic.

usually idles at 500-800 rpm

i do have a digital 6 ignition box and thats really the only thing that keeps it idling (it has an automatic retard below 900 rpm)
and when im going from a stop to about 30 mph , where the rpm is anywhere from idle to about 2000 rpm the car lurches and studders and the only way to stop it from doing that is to push hit the throttle to WOT.

i used to hear a whistling sound coming from the engine bay i think from the passenger side and now ist only occasionally.

i think it might be one of 3 things:
tps
leaky gasket
vaccum leak

it might even be something to do with fuel and or spark
please pass some knowledge im gonna lose my mind here soon
thanks
Dean

93mustank · October 4th, 2008, 06:57 PM

Dont guess....run your codes

usmcsawgunner · October 4th, 2008, 09:15 PM

i ran my codes and i didnt get anything related to it...

93mustank · October 4th, 2008, 09:20 PM

What did you get ?

93hatch · October 4th, 2008, 09:23 PM

whats ur tps set at?

usmcsawgunner · October 4th, 2008, 09:44 PM

i got
67o neutral pressure switch circuit failure (what is that?)
81o air dirverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault (dont know what that is either)
i dunno maybe these do have something to do...im an old school guy and i really dont know much about efi and all that...thats why i just want a freakin carb...

usmcsawgunner · October 4th, 2008, 09:50 PM

i dont even know where the tps is at or what it looks like

usmcsawgunner · October 4th, 2008, 10:11 PM

so i pulled codes again and i got more interesting codes....i didnt wait long enough for the reader to read them all....(it has the code 10 and all that....) yea anyway
91c HEGO (HO2s) out of range/ always lean
96c Fuel pump secondary circuit fault. high speed fuel pump relay open
18c loss of tach input/ SPOUT circuit grounded
41c HEGO (HO2s) sensor signal out of range

i guess those make more sence.....do i need to replace the o2 sensors and the fuel pump relay?
now that i see those codes im bettin that most of the problem is lying on the HEGO out of range/ always lean thing....that would makes sense since my exhaust smells real rich....
any foresight or wisdom youd like to pass? i appreciate it
Dean

usmcsawgunner · October 5th, 2008, 03:09 PM

any help?

e3sean · October 5th, 2008, 05:42 PM

well if the spout circut is grounded that will jack up your ignition that is the wire that runs to the - on the coil..

bad 02 sensors will cause problems with the a/f ratio

(test the spout wire) it is the 2nd wire in from the left if the clip faces up on the distrubitor plug. if it says its being grounded test it as a ground and see if u can see voltage. if yes then find where its being grounded from ie(rubbing on the body somwhere or 2 wires melted together.)

usmcsawgunner · October 5th, 2008, 11:22 PM

sweet thanks I'll try that asap does anyone know for sure if its the o2 sensor or the connection or will either problem set that code off?

usmcsawgunner · October 6th, 2008, 06:51 PM

anybody?

fairlane_68 · October 6th, 2008, 07:24 PM

That Spout connector is what you unplug when you set or check your base timing of 10 degrees before TDC on an unmodified motor. When it's plugged in, the PCM takes control of the ignition timing. The air diverter valve is what directs the flow of air to your emissions system (back of the heads, between cylinder banks), and the intake air control circuit would be the IAC, or Idle Air by-pass valve. Since you have two codes for the O2 sensors, you can either ignore them and concentrate on the bigger problems, or replace them and run the chance of wasting money. It sounds like you have either a fuel delivery problem, or timing problem, based on what you're saying.

These things are very common when you buy someone else's project car. I have a carb'd 302 in my '97, and there isn't a day that goes by that I don't curse that damn carburetor and wish I had EFI. But I need the carb setup for what I intend to do with the car. EFI is a breeze to work on if you (1) have the right tools, and (2) take the time to learn about it and not be scared of it.

What kind of "mods" have been done to the car?

Semper Fi.

usmcsawgunner · October 8th, 2008, 09:38 PM

i have a trick flow intake hooker headers, msd digital 6 ignition 76mm mass air flow meter some other stuff but i dont think any others pertain...

TKOTLARZ · October 8th, 2008, 11:28 PM

it sounds like ur IAC is bad..i would change that..you can also take it off ur throttle body and have somone turn the key to the "on'' position and see if it moves at all and smoothly

usmcsawgunner · October 16th, 2008, 07:32 PM

i cleaned my IAC with maf cleaner and it helped a little bit with the response but not very much. should i just replace it as well as the o2 sensors? i dunno what else to do. i want to run it off a cliff but id bet i couldnt make it to a cliff to drive it off of.

October 4th, 2008, 04:13 PM	#1
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	fed up with it... i have a 93 gt and its been souped up quite a bit before i got it. this problem just started up and its driving me crazy because i cant put my finger on it. when i start it up cold it dosent want to idle for crap. when it gets warm the idle is pretty erratic. usually idles at 500-800 rpm i do have a digital 6 ignition box and thats really the only thing that keeps it idling (it has an automatic retard below 900 rpm) and when im going from a stop to about 30 mph , where the rpm is anywhere from idle to about 2000 rpm the car lurches and studders and the only way to stop it from doing that is to push hit the throttle to WOT. i used to hear a whistling sound coming from the engine bay i think from the passenger side and now ist only occasionally. i think it might be one of 3 things: tps leaky gasket vaccum leak it might even be something to do with fuel and or spark please pass some knowledge im gonna lose my mind here soon thanks Dean

October 4th, 2008, 06:57 PM	#2
93mustank Banned Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Phoenix,AZ Posts: 3,014 iTrader: 1 reviews	Dont guess....run your codes __________________ PeteAndersonRacing.com

October 4th, 2008, 09:20 PM	#4
93mustank Banned Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Phoenix,AZ Posts: 3,014 iTrader: 1 reviews	What did you get ? __________________ PeteAndersonRacing.com

October 4th, 2008, 09:23 PM	#5
93hatch Banned 1992 Lx 11.39@119.24 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Az Posts: 11,644 iTrader: 0 reviews	whats ur tps set at? __________________ [QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]

October 5th, 2008, 05:42 PM	#10
e3sean I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1988 lx 9.68@142 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: goldsboro NC Posts: 5,609 iTrader: 0 reviews	well if the spout circut is grounded that will jack up your ignition that is the wire that runs to the - on the coil.. bad 02 sensors will cause problems with the a/f ratio (test the spout wire) it is the 2nd wire in from the left if the clip faces up on the distrubitor plug. if it says its being grounded test it as a ground and see if u can see voltage. if yes then find where its being grounded from ie(rubbing on the body somwhere or 2 wires melted together.) __________________

October 4th, 2008, 09:15 PM	#3
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	i ran my codes and i didnt get anything related to it...

October 4th, 2008, 09:44 PM	#6
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	i got 67o neutral pressure switch circuit failure (what is that?) 81o air dirverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault (dont know what that is either) i dunno maybe these do have something to do...im an old school guy and i really dont know much about efi and all that...thats why i just want a freakin carb...

October 4th, 2008, 09:50 PM	#7
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	i dont even know where the tps is at or what it looks like

October 4th, 2008, 10:11 PM	#8
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	so i pulled codes again and i got more interesting codes....i didnt wait long enough for the reader to read them all....(it has the code 10 and all that....) yea anyway 91c HEGO (HO2s) out of range/ always lean 96c Fuel pump secondary circuit fault. high speed fuel pump relay open 18c loss of tach input/ SPOUT circuit grounded 41c HEGO (HO2s) sensor signal out of range i guess those make more sence.....do i need to replace the o2 sensors and the fuel pump relay? now that i see those codes im bettin that most of the problem is lying on the HEGO out of range/ always lean thing....that would makes sense since my exhaust smells real rich.... any foresight or wisdom youd like to pass? i appreciate it Dean

October 5th, 2008, 03:09 PM	#9
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	any help?

October 5th, 2008, 11:22 PM	#11
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	sweet thanks I'll try that asap does anyone know for sure if its the o2 sensor or the connection or will either problem set that code off?

October 6th, 2008, 06:51 PM	#12
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	anybody?

October 6th, 2008, 07:24 PM	#13
fairlane_68 Regular Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 404 Blog Entries: 5 iTrader: 0 reviews	That Spout connector is what you unplug when you set or check your base timing of 10 degrees before TDC on an unmodified motor. When it's plugged in, the PCM takes control of the ignition timing. The air diverter valve is what directs the flow of air to your emissions system (back of the heads, between cylinder banks), and the intake air control circuit would be the IAC, or Idle Air by-pass valve. Since you have two codes for the O2 sensors, you can either ignore them and concentrate on the bigger problems, or replace them and run the chance of wasting money. It sounds like you have either a fuel delivery problem, or timing problem, based on what you're saying. These things are very common when you buy someone else's project car. I have a carb'd 302 in my '97, and there isn't a day that goes by that I don't curse that damn carburetor and wish I had EFI. But I need the carb setup for what I intend to do with the car. EFI is a breeze to work on if you (1) have the right tools, and (2) take the time to learn about it and not be scared of it. What kind of "mods" have been done to the car? Semper Fi.

October 8th, 2008, 09:38 PM	#14
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	i have a trick flow intake hooker headers, msd digital 6 ignition 76mm mass air flow meter some other stuff but i dont think any others pertain...

October 8th, 2008, 11:28 PM	#15
TKOTLARZ Hardcore Enthusiast 1994 GT Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: lake worth, Florida Posts: 1,002 iTrader: 0 reviews	it sounds like ur IAC is bad..i would change that..you can also take it off ur throttle body and have somone turn the key to the "on'' position and see if it moves at all and smoothly __________________ Cohagan Engineering, Inc.

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October 16th, 2008, 07:32 PM	#16
usmcsawgunner Regular 1993 Mustang GT 13.2 @98.54 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii Posts: 433 iTrader: 0 reviews	i cleaned my IAC with maf cleaner and it helped a little bit with the response but not very much. should i just replace it as well as the o2 sensors? i dunno what else to do. i want to run it off a cliff but id bet i couldnt make it to a cliff to drive it off of.