those of you who have alot of automatic expierence please help.
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Old October 9th, 2008, 11:27 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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those of you who have alot of automatic expierence please help.


alright so my car has a bad vibration even in neutral at a stop from about 2700 + it didnt do that prior to the c4 swap. i got the right 28oz flexplate for my 347 stroker.but when i bolted it up to the motor we were not able to spin the converter to get to the holes to bolt the converter cause it was pressed against the flexplate and it was spinning with it. i have a blocking plate (seperator). so we loosened the tranny up and started the bolts before we tightend the tranny to the block.. is it possible i bent the flexplate and that is causing the vibration? has anyone ran into this before?

i made sure the converter was all the way on the transmission prior to bolting it up.
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Old October 9th, 2008, 11:30 PM   #2
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did you make sure it's not something simple as a loose bolt on your u joints?

if the flexplate was bent at all.. your starter would whine quite a bit..
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Old October 9th, 2008, 11:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by superbean View Post
did you make sure it's not something simple as a loose bolt on your u joints?

if the flexplate was bent at all.. your starter would whine quite a bit..
the u joint is not spinning when the car is not moving. it does it in neutral while stopped.
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Old October 10th, 2008, 02:26 AM   #4
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your car was a manual right?......did you remove the pilot bushing in the back of the crank before you assembled all this?

that would be your problem, i hope you didnt bend your flexplate.
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Old October 10th, 2008, 03:10 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 78mach1 View Post
your car was a manual right?......did you remove the pilot bushing in the back of the crank before you assembled all this?

that would be your problem, i hope you didnt bend your flexplate.
yeah i took the pilot bearing out.
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Old October 10th, 2008, 11:15 AM   #6
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well then everything should have fit together nicely.

is there any noise?....or just a vibration?
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Old October 10th, 2008, 12:22 PM   #7
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Was the engine balanced with the flexplate or was it balanced with a flywheel from when it was a manual transmission?
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Old October 10th, 2008, 12:25 PM   #8
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Did you change the damper to a 28 oz.? It sounds like the converter was not all the way in tranny at the start or the converter has hurt the pump when it was't lined up with the flywheel. Converter studs must be lined the flywheel holes when installing and the studs should be loose the holes once the tranny is bolted tight. The converter, flywheel or pump may be damaged now.
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Old October 10th, 2008, 12:59 PM   #9
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all I got to say is automatics and mustangs don't go together. you car is probably pissed at you for forcing a slushbox into it's unsuspecting tunnel.
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Old October 10th, 2008, 03:45 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt View Post
all I got to say is automatics and mustangs don't go together. you car is probably pissed at you for forcing a slushbox into it's unsuspecting tunnel.
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Old October 11th, 2008, 01:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt View Post
all I got to say is automatics and mustangs don't go together. you car is probably pissed at you for forcing a slushbox into it's unsuspecting tunnel.
ha ha awesome
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Old October 11th, 2008, 03:21 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by badshoe View Post
Did you change the damper to a 28 oz.? It sounds like the converter was not all the way in tranny at the start or the converter has hurt the pump when it was't lined up with the flywheel. Converter studs must be lined the flywheel holes when installing and the studs should be loose the holes once the tranny is bolted tight. The converter, flywheel or pump may be damaged now.
yeah i made sure the converter was all the way in to the 2 shafts and the pump

yeah i got the 28oz flxplate and the damper has been 28oz since the stroker build.

when i piulled it apart the converter was able to spin but i dont thik i had enough space i was told that sometimes you need 2 blocking plates to get the right spacing. i am taking the flywheel to the machine shop today to have it checked out.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 09:58 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by e3sean View Post
yeah i made sure the converter was all the way in to the 2 shafts and the pump

yeah i got the 28oz flxplate and the damper has been 28oz since the stroker build.

when i piulled it apart the converter was able to spin but i dont thik i had enough space i was told that sometimes you need 2 blocking plates to get the right spacing. i am taking the flywheel to the machine shop today to have it checked out.

It is very possible that you have a flexplate causing your problems if you didn't take it to the machine shop that balanced your rotating assembly. Most shops keep the info on file for their customers. I've run into this before. A friend of mine changed to an SFI flexplate from a stock type flexplate and didn't have the flexplate modified accordingly. The engine shook real bad and it took out the main bearings also. Chances are when they balanced the original assembly they modified the weight on your flywheel or drilled some holes to balance everything. The same will need to be done for your flexplate. Get some new bearing right away too, you are going to need them. If the engine is out of balance enough to shake, it has also damaged the bearings.

You never need two block plates to get the right spacing. If you need more than one block plate, something is wrong. Don't fix problems with problems.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 04:48 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Darrell View Post
It is very possible that you have a flexplate causing your problems if you didn't take it to the machine shop that balanced your rotating assembly. Most shops keep the info on file for their customers. I've run into this before. A friend of mine changed to an SFI flexplate from a stock type flexplate and didn't have the flexplate modified accordingly. The engine shook real bad and it took out the main bearings also. Chances are when they balanced the original assembly they modified the weight on your flywheel or drilled some holes to balance everything. The same will need to be done for your flexplate. Get some new bearing right away too, you are going to need them. If the engine is out of balance enough to shake, it has also damaged the bearings.

You never need two block plates to get the right spacing. If you need more than one block plate, something is wrong. Don't fix problems with problems.

i am gonna get a new flexplate from the machine shop i only drove it for like 3 or 4 miles and it was pretty light driving. i cant afford to replace bearings right now. the engine wasnt shaking i have solid motor mounts thats why it was noticed very easily. it wasnt horribly vibrating but enough for me not to want to drive it anymore.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 07:01 PM   #15
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Take your old flywheel in and have the flexplate balanced to match the flywheel and you should be set.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 09:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt View Post
Take your old flywheel in and have the flexplate balanced to match the flywheel and you should be set.
i sent the flywheel to florida to a buddy i believe they balenced my flywheel to an in house one at the machine shop i am going there to see them tomorrow.
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Old October 13th, 2008, 04:00 AM   #17
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this is off topic but........should have went for the OD.....=P
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Old October 13th, 2008, 04:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by 78mach1 View Post
this is off topic but........should have went for the OD.....=P
you have another 1k for me?
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Old October 14th, 2008, 02:43 AM   #19
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hahah you can build a hell of a AOD with 1k.

you can take a stock AOD, change out the valve body, (or drill it like i did), transgo kit, hi-rev kit, sonnex boost valve, hardened input shaft, a good servo, and it will be a damn good street strip trans for a decent price.


or go all out and replace the clutch packs, along with the forward drum and the sun shell.

then its bullet proof.
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Old October 14th, 2008, 04:54 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by 78mach1 View Post
hahah you can build a hell of a AOD with 1k.

you can take a stock AOD, change out the valve body, (or drill it like i did), transgo kit, hi-rev kit, sonnex boost valve, hardened input shaft, a good servo, and it will be a damn good street strip trans for a decent price.


or go all out and replace the clutch packs, along with the forward drum and the sun shell.

then its bullet proof.

well where the hell were you when i was looking for one???? i woulda paid you to build me one. i have never done an automatic and everywhere i called ither didnt build them or wanted way too much to build it.
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