[gotn20]

i got the nitrous works kit second hand but you can buy em on ebay or through there website. I love there kits i think it's good shit. +1 on the 255lph and the auto lite 24's. I've sprayed a 200 shot with timing as high as 14*base. Wich isn't recommended with no problems. If your new to spray I'd start with whatever kit you want and 150 shot with timing at 8-10. And this info is off my personal exp and only with a throttle body wet kit.

[Iwannagofast]

one more question.....is it safe to run 150 shot on stock timing with 93 octane

[fogged306]

The rule of thumb is usually to retard 1-2* for every 50hp of nitrous you are running.

[Iwannagofast]

yeah but im uping the octane so say i was already runnin 14 degrees adv. and then retarded it about 4 degrees for the 150 shot it would work out right

[fogged306]

Whats your c/r?

[Iwannagofast]

stock 9 or 9.5 to 1......stock engine

[Iwannagofast]

ok if i was to get the nitrous works throttle body plate would it be bad if i got the 75 mm plate with the stock throttle body.....i plan on gettin a 75 later

[1slo5.0]

Here is some factual Dry and Wet Nitrous system info since alot of people post a bunch of nonsense that they know nothing about:

I guess the first thing to clarify is "dry" when talking about nitrous oxide kits refers to the fuel being introduced separate from the nitrous. In other words the fuel and nitrous are not mixed together like in traditional nitrous systems. Dry does not mean no fuel or lean or anything else. It simply means the nitrous is injected separately from the fuel. Carbureted intake manifolds are designed to flow air and fuel so nitrous plate system really have no major issues with carbureted applications. However, EFI intakes are designed to flow air and air only. This presents problems when using traditional "wet" nitrous systems. Most EFI intakes have long runners, dips and valleys where fuel could potentially "puddle" and create a major backfire. This problem is typical with wet systems that use a plate that is sandwiched between the throttle body and intake and also wet systems that use a nozzle mounted in the intake or the air inlet tube before the throttle body. The problem doesn't seem to be as common with wet systems that use a plate that is mounted between the upper and lower intake.

EFI fuel pressure regulators work on a 1:1 ratio with fuel versus air pressure. That means placing 1 lb of pressure on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator will increase fuel pressure by 1 psi. A dry nitrous kit uses a reduced amount of nitrous pressure to increase fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator. Since nitrous bottle pressure is usually 900-1000 psi it needs to be reduced because 900-1000 psi is obviously too much fuel pressure and will cause a plethora of problems. Dry kits use a T with a restriction or jet inside in the line from the fuel pressure regulator that connects the fuel pressure regulator with manifold vacuum at one end and nitrous oxide pressure at the other end. This way the regulator will function normally when the nitrous system is not being used. A larger jet or restriction in the T will create less fuel pressure while a smaller jet or restriction will create more fuel pressure which is opposite of traditional nitrous jetting...something to keep in mind when tuning a dry system.
With a dry system there is no risk of fuel puddling backfires like there is with wet systems and you don't have to plumb fuel lines for a fuel enrichment since the fuel injectors handle the fuel demands. Dry systems start off rich and then bring the nitrous in to lean the mixture out to where it needs to be. Wet systems can sometimes start lean and then go rich because the nitrous is under alot higher pressure than the fuel is so nitrous will usually get to the engine before the fuel does. Dry systems don't come on as hard from the start as wet systems do which can be beneficial for off the line traction. There are some drawbacks to dry nitrous systems though which are not very common. There have been a few cases of the rubber fuel rail connecting lines rupturing. I don't think this is an issue with the NOS-05115-II kit because the fuel pressure only spikes to about 80-90 psi but other kits that are designed differently see fuel pressure spikes as high as 125 psi. This line rupturing problem could also happen if with worn or rotted rubber hose. There can be cylinder distribution problems with dry systems. The fuel itself is pretty equal cylinder to cylinder but nitrous distribution problems can occur do to distribution issues with intake manifolds. Some cylinders might be rich while others might be lean. However, even carbureted plate systems for Fords have this issue. Most noteably with #1 and #5 cylinders. Chances are most people won't have any negative issues with distribution unless they start messing with custom nitrous tune ups involving larger amounts of nitrous.

I'm a big fan of the Nitrous Oxide Systems NOS-05115-IINOS kit. The kit is very reliable and user friendly. I feel it is the safest nitrous system on the market and I haven't heard anyone else say otherwise. The kit comes with all of the necessary components and an inline high flow fuel pump and has several safety features built in. It costs more than most other Mustang nitrous kits but as the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for". Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) has been researching and developing Mustang EFI dry kits since the first EFI Mustangs rolled out of the Ford plant. The NOS-05115-IINOS kit incorporates a Hobbs switch (fuel safety shut off switch) which does not allow the nitrous system to activate until fuel pressure is above 55 psi and also shuts the nitrous system off in case of a drop in fuel pressure. The NOS kit also comes equipped with two nitrous solenoids which both need to open before nitrous oxide will be injected into the engine. When the first one opens it sends a signal to the fuel pressure regulator which then raises the fuel pressure. Once the fuel pressure gets to 55 psi, the Hobbs switch will open the second solenoid which will then inject the nitrous into the engine. Most other kits don't have this feature. The NOS kit also uses two jets, one for nitrous and one in the bleed off T where most other kits have a fixed restriction for a bleed off hole instead of a jet. Having a fixed restriction means you can not tune the fuel pressure like you can with the NOS brand kit so as you increase the nitrous jet size you are leaning the system out and have no way to add fuel to compensate. Another benefit to the NOS kit is by design if the bottle pressure is decreased (due to temperature, bottle getting empty, etc.) the amount of fuel pressure is also reduced. This is due to the nitrous pressure regulator that NOS uses with this kit. Most other brands don't have this feature because the kits are simpler in design, hence the cheaper prices. Most of these other brands also have a pretty harsh initial fuel spike that is high enough to burst the rubber hose that connects the fuel rails. NOS offers two versions of this kit. The NOS-05115NOS kit is a non adjustable 75hp nitrous system. NOS does make an upgrade kit for this kit which converts it to an adjustable kit up to 150hp. The part number for the upgrade kit is NOS-0016NOS. NOS also makes a Stage II kit which is adjustable from 75-150hp and comes with an inline high flow fuel pump. The part number for this kit is NOS-05115-IINOS. You can get creative with these kits just like any other nitrous system. As the kits stands, it will support 175hp. With the addition of larger fuel injectors, larger nitrous solenoids, larger nitrous nozzle line (to replace the small -3 line) and larger nozzle, 300+ horsepower has been made with this kit.

Other info about this kit. Recently I have found out that NOS has gone to the fixed T design with a .42 orfice and is non adjustable but is designed to work with all horsepower levels that the kit was originally intended for. Apparently this was due to production costs as well as liabilities. The solution to this is to find an older adjustable T from a parts store, classifieds or Ebay. Also, if you run more than 1000 psi bottle pressure you can damage the internals of the nitrous pressure regulator and cause it to not work. With a dry kit, make sure your injectors are big enough for your overall horsepower level otherwise your engine won't get enough fuel. It is also important to keep fuel pressure below 100 psi because typical fuel injectors will lock open above 100 psi. The solenoids of the NOS dry kit will only support 175hp.

[Iwannagofast]

wow......thats probly the longest post i have ever read