[noyz25]

when i first start the car it runs strong for like 1 minute or so. Then it starts to act funny till it warms up. By funny i mean i give it partial throttle and it sputters and backfires and barely accelerates. But if i put the pedel to the metal it runs hard WOT. and this happens everytime and last till it warms up. When it warms up and runs normal it does'nt for some reason run as hard/fast as it does when i first start it before it starts to act up.

Any and all help very appreciated.

[fateisajester]

did you try seeing what codes its throwing yet?

[00SoSlow]

same promlem here... does your seem like it backfires/misfires and sputters part throttle when cruising???

[JBIGBOOTSY]

could be a vaccum leak. they are more identifiable during idle, and part throttle. spary carb cleaner on your vaccum lines and see if the idle rises.

[gotn20]

carbed or efi?

[G.T. Rags]

stop refueling with feces

[00SoSlow]

EFI 5.0 HO... my car backfired pretty big today i thought i blew something up, seems to run pretty good for the time being LOL

[fakesaleen]

your throttle body isnt closing, try holding your hand over the throttle body so only a little air gets in when its cold

[nasty92LX]

just let it warm up.

[Hunt_chevs]

Originally Posted by fakesaleen your throttle body isnt closing, try holding your hand over the throttle body so only a little air gets in when its cold

wouldnt there be an intake connected to the tb?

[grnstang]

yeah i have a prety wicked 93 octane tune on my car and its really rough in the morning when its cold...but i let it idle for 5 minutes and it runs like a dream. if you have your timing bumped way up that is probbaly why

[noyz25]

Originally Posted by 00SoSlow same promlem here... does your seem like it backfires/misfires and sputters part throttle when cruising???

Yup

weird thing is though when i very first start it it runs fine then after a minute or so it starts acting up then after a couple minutes it stops and runs fine again.

[noyz25]

timing is at 11 btw.

[fastford3388]

Thats what mine did once i bypassed the coolant lines going to the EGR spacer by my throttle body. as soon as it warmed up it was fine. do you guys have your egr coolant lines bypassed??

[noyz25]

Originally Posted by fastford3388 Thats what mine did once i bypassed the coolant lines going to the EGR spacer by my throttle body. as soon as it warmed up it was fine. do you guys have your egr coolant lines bypassed??

If your talking about that line that is going to the EGR spacer that the egr is attached to on a stock mustang manifold. Then yes mine is blocked off cuz i have GT40 upper and lower. Plus i have no vacuum line going to the egr either. If this is the problem how do i fix it?

[grnstang]

remove EGR and smog pump from your car and get an EGR spacer. why is your timing at 11? bump that **** up to 14!!!

[noyz25]

Originally Posted by grnstang remove EGR and smog pump from your car and get an EGR spacer. why is your timing at 11? bump that **** up to 14!!!

I'm running my timing at 11 cuz i am running 87 octane. Do i need to chip my ecu so it wont look for the EGR?

[noyz25]

Originally Posted by fateisajester did you try seeing what codes its throwing yet?

54 - ACT sensor circuit open
67 - MLP sensor out of range or A/C on (E4OD)
81 - Air management 2 circuit failure
82 - Air management 1 circuit failure
85 - Canister purge solenoid circuit failure
87 - Fuel pump primary circuit failure

[vfast]

this is because you have a canned tune that can't adjust for a cold start..

Originally Posted by grnstang yeah i have a prety wicked 93 octane tune on my car and its really rough in the morning when its cold...but i let it idle for 5 minutes and it runs like a dream. if you have your timing bumped way up that is probbaly why

[americanmuscle90]

54 - ACT sensor circuit open
67 - MLP sensor out of range or A/C on (E4OD)
81 - Air management 2 circuit failure
82 - Air management 1 circuit failure
85 - Canister purge solenoid circuit failure
87 - Fuel pump primary circuit failure

I would start by checking the ACT, it is screwed into the intake manifold on the driver's side near the front. The ACT measures air temp inside the mainifold and helps adjust air/fuel ratio and spark timing advance. If it is open, like the code says, it will show infinite resistance which tells the computer that the air is extremely cold and will richen the air/fuel mixture and advance the timing. Check to make sure it is plugged in. Also, test the resistance it should read 29 kilohms at 77 degrees.

I am not sure what the MLP sensor is but a 67 code is neutral drive switch or circuit, or A/C clutch circuit fault. I don't think your A/C compressor clutch is the problem. Mine is not even hooked up and I don't have an idle problem. Try unplugging it though and see if it helps.

I am guessing that you have an A/T. If this is the case your PCM controls the torque converter lockup clutch. Certain parameters must be met for the converter to lockup and to unlock. If the lockup solenoid is not activated or deactivated at the right times then it could cause idle and drivability problems.

As for codes 81, 82, and 85 I am also guessing you don't have the AIR system hooked up. This will trip codes in the PCM but should not cause idle or drivability concerns as long as you plugged all of the connections so there is no vacuum leaks. I also don't have an AIR system. Just make sure all the holes are plugged.

Code 87 fuel pump circuit, this could obviously cause idle and drivability issues. Test the circuit visually for loose or corroded connections also perform voltage drop and resistance tests. If she is not getting the fuel she needs she won't run properly.

I would definitely start with the ACT sensor. This sensor helps control advance (too much in this case causing a back fire) and air/fuel mixture (too rich in this case causing a poor idle). Then check the fuel pump circuit.