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#21 |
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MM Fanatic
1990 LX hatch
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hobart Indiana
Posts: 4,391
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oh. Touche'. So they are not the same, just directly proportionate, in order to get a higher pulswidth the injector dutycycle has to increase.
I mistakenly thought that since they both discribe the amount in time the injector was open (duty cycle, by %) and (pulswidth by milliseconds) they were for "arguments sake" the same.
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![]() Bolt-on Abraham Lincoln Log motor. With extra wiring. |
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#22 | ||
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RLY SRS
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The powerdered rods are not really strong at all... |
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#23 |
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Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Euclid, Ohio
Posts: 122
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I just got my nitrous kit last night. I thought for sure I saw it was a dry kit, but it didn't say and is actually a wet kit. It has a throttle body plate, with fuel on one side and nitrous on the other. Does this change any of the recomendation that were made? Should I sell the wet kit and get a dry kit?
I forgot about the BNM Racing Nitro Control. I heard real good things about it when I was considering doing nitrous on my 2000. I ordered one of the units with first gear lockout.
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Current Mustangs: 2004 Cobra Convertible 1993 5.0 LX Hatchback 1992 5.0 LX Convertible |
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#24 | |
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MM Ninjas!
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ![]() ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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#25 | |
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MM Ninjas!
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I personally can't stand the wet kits that have the plate that goes between the throttle body and intake. I've seen alot of backfires due to fuel puddling with that style. I've seen intakes blown apart and throttle bodies blown off. Its not operator error either, its due to the fact that the intake manifold is designed to flow air and not fuel. The only good/safe wet systems are are the ones with plates that go between the upper and lower intake like the NOS wet system. That way the fuel doesn't get hung up in the runners. A dry system would be much safer than the throttle body plate system.
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ![]() ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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#26 |
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Regular
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 53
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My dry kit is a single selinoid and the directions say to run it before the MAF. i bought a DynoTune dry kit. I dont have $500-$1000 to spend on spray.
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#27 | |
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MM Ninjas!
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How much was the kit? You get what you pay for. When your messing with nitrous I wouldn't mess with cheap junk. NOS makes a Mustang EFI kit for $509. I can't imagine there is much out there that is cheaper than that besides the junk they sell on ebay.
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ![]() ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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#28 |
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Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Danville, Pa.
Posts: 324
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If you don't have the money to pay.....you don't have the money to play!
Speed is expensive!
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1982 GT (t-top) 351w(.060),10:3, ported & polished iron heads, 1.94/1.60 valves, BBK shorties & flowmasters, 274XE cam, stealth intake, mallory dizzy, stealth intake, 750dp, Edge 3700 stall converter, C-4, 4:10's Best E.T 12.79@103.55mph |
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#29 |
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Banned
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True dat!
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [B][U]MM Sapper Squad[/U][/B] [QUOTE=Regency 2007;1676187]MSO's stupidity has never stopped amazing me since the day he joined this forum.[/QUOTE] |
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#30 | |
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MM Ninjas!
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My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm.... ![]() ***1988 Mustang GT - Stock....almost
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#31 |
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Regular
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 53
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I paid just under $400 for mine direct from DynoTune, that includes the purge also. I read some posotive feedback on the company and thought I would give it a try, Hell the NX mainline kit I had on my 01 Cobra cost even less and worked great.
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#32 | ||
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RLY SRS
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#33 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 2
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i put a 175 shot wet kit on a stock 90lx except for exhaust.sprayed 6 bottles in one night only tune was turn the timing down. car got sprayed every weekend intill i built a 306 never any problems
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