[jtillery]

I posted this under the power adder section a couple days ago, but I am hoping to get a better resonse here:

I just purchased a Nitrous Works 70mm 50-175 hp dry nitrous system. I will be installing it on my 87 5.0 Hatchback. The motor is stock right now, and has 130k miles. I plan on running 100-150 shot (open to recommendations). I searched the forums, but couldn't find answers to a few questions. I purchased the following mods and will be installing them shortly:

Mass Air conversion - A9M computer with matching hypertech chip
BBK cold air intake
Hooker Shorty Headers
BBK hi flow cat h-pipe
Flowmaster catback exhaust
MAC underdrive pulleys

I know I need to get a 70mm throttle body, but is there any other recommended additions? Do I need to upgrade the fuel system (if so, what is the best method)? Should I run the hypertech chip (I am assuming I shouldn't)? Should I upgrade the ignition?

The car has a T5 transmission, is the WOT switch sufficient for protection, or should I use a window switch (leaning towards window switch)? Any other recommendations to make it safer? The car is not a daily driver, so if the engines blows up, it is not a huge deal, but obviously I would like to avoid it.

At this point, I do not have any plans to go to an aftermarket intake and heads. I am interested in swapping camshafts to get a rough idle (I know that is for the wrong reason, but I love the sound). Admittedly I need to research more on camshafts since I have no idea where to start.

Also, unless the local laws change the car will need to be smog tested in 2009.

Thanks

[5.slo]

I just purchased a DynoTune dry kit for my fox. My car has a bunch of bolt ons B303 cam and 3.73's with some suspension. About all im missing is H/I. I have not installed it yet but I can give you some advise that I was given. First I was told that a fuel pump upgrade is a good idea, but not a must. Also a fuel pressure regulator. I was also told that you want to take the timing down a little if its been bumped from the factory 10*, Im currently at 14*. Im gonna be using the WOT switch also. I had a MSD window switch on my 01 Cobra and I didnt like it, n ever seemed to work right. As for the T-5, I believe its only rated for 300 torque. Ive seen plenty of cars running the stock T-5 making way more torque than 300 and they are OK. If you still have the stock clutch I recommend replacing it before you spray cause its gonna blow, believe me I know from experience. Im gonna start with a 100 shot and work m y way up. Also with the dry shot you know you have to run your nozzle before the MAF. they suggest not to spray more than a 100 shot before the MAF due to the sensative heat wire in the MAF. I heard that you can run it after the MAF and go with a bigger shot if you get the car tuned to deliever more fuel. Thats about all I know. If I have anything wrong or forgot something someone please correct me cause im in the same boat as the original poster and could use all the info I can get.

[jtillery]

Originally Posted by 5.slo I had a MSD window switch on my 01 Cobra and I didnt like it, n ever seemed to work right.

Which one did you have? I was thinking about buying one of the digital MSD winodw switches, they are about $100 from Summit. Are there any that are recommended over the MSD?

Originally Posted by 5.slo As for the T-5, I believe its only rated for 300 torque.

It would be good to get some verification on this, I think there is plently of people running well over 300 ft/lbs of torque on a T5.

Originally Posted by 5.slo Also with the dry shot you know you have to run your nozzle before the MAF. they suggest not to spray more than a 100 shot before the MAF due to the sensative heat wire in the MAF. I heard that you can run it after the MAF and go with a bigger shot if you get the car tuned to deliever more fuel.

From my research, I think you are wrong on this. Everything I saw said spraying before the MAF was a bad idea. My nitrous kit has a plate that mounts on the throttle body for the nozzle. I am hoping to find some place around that can do a tune.

[82GT]

I'm not sure if I would thow nitrous on a motor with that many miles on it.
I would rebuild the engine first before I added nitrous.

[ChrisJ]

Window Switch
Wide Open Throttle Switch
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE

You should be fine...

[89StangGT]

Originally Posted by 82GT I'm not sure if I would thow nitrous on a motor with that many miles on it. I would rebuild the engine first before I added nitrous.

as long as the motor has good compression it should be fine, ive seen guys spraying motors with 200K on them.

[5.slo]

Originally Posted by jtillery Originally Posted by 5.slo I had a MSD window switch on my 01 Cobra and I didnt like it, n ever seemed to work right. Which one did you have? I was thinking about buying one of the digital MSD winodw switches, they are about $100 from Summit. Are there any that are recommended over the MSD? Originally Posted by 5.slo As for the T-5, I believe its only rated for 300 torque. It would be good to get some verification on this, I think there is plently of people running well over 300 ft/lbs of torque on a T5. Originally Posted by 5.slo Also with the dry shot you know you have to run your nozzle before the MAF. they suggest not to spray more than a 100 shot before the MAF due to the sensative heat wire in the MAF. I heard that you can run it after the MAF and go with a bigger shot if you get the car tuned to deliever more fuel. From my research, I think you are wrong on this. Everything I saw said spraying before the MAF was a bad idea. My nitrous kit has a plate that mounts on the throttle body for the nozzle. I am hoping to find some place around that can do a tune.

I had the digital MSD window swithc, had lots of problems with it. there is another one made by BMN that has a 1st gear lockout, its supposed to be alot better.


The T-5 is rated at 300ftlbs of torque from the factory(I believe). Yes I see lots of people pushing much more through it so it may be ok.

The directions that came with my kit said to mount it before the MAF...remember im taliking dry shot here. If you know something I dont please do share.

[5.slo]

Originally Posted by 82GT I'm not sure if I would thow nitrous on a motor with that many miles on it. I would rebuild the engine first before I added nitrous.

Believe me ive asked around on several different forums about this and everybody told me it will be fine. the car runs real strong, dont knock or ping and idles real smooth. I think its ok but then again you never know.

[ChrisJ]

It will do fine...

The key is a good tune...

[1slo5.0]

I wouldn't worry about anything. You have a dry kit and you plan on spraying 100-150 hp. That is a real small amount of nitrous. As long as everything is hooked up right it should be fail proof. Its really hard to hurt an engine with 150hp.

[ChrisJ]

Originally Posted by Darrell I wouldn't worry about anything. You have a dry kit and you plan on spraying 100-150 hp. That is a real small amount of nitrous. As long as everything is hooked up right it should be fail proof. Its really hard to hurt an engine with 150hp.

Pushrod Powa is grand...100-150 shot is not that hard for you guys...Us mod motor guys not so much...

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by ChrisJ Pushrod Powa is grand...100-150 shot is not that hard for you guys...Us mod motor guys not so much...

Why? I know a couple guys up here that are spraying 200hp with Nozzle kits and have been doing it for years. I've heard the powerdered rods are weak but these guys aren't having any problems at all. But I've never owned a mod motor so I really have no idea what they can handle.

[5.slo]

Let me get something cleared up, the dry shot must be run before the MAF with no more than a 100 shot to protect against damaging the heat wire in the MAF? Am I right or wrong? This is what I was told on another forum. If I can spray more I will I have jets for 125 and 150.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 5.slo Let me get something cleared up, the dry shot must be run before the MAF with no more than a 100 shot to protect against damaging the heat wire in the MAF? Am I right or wrong? This is what I was told on another forum. If I can spray more I will I have jets for 125 and 150.

I wouldn't spray any nitrous thru the MAF. Put the nozzle as close to the throttle body as you can. All of my dry kits I've tapped a hole in the intake right after the throttle body and ran the nozzle in there.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

every nitrous company says to run the nitrous through the maf on a dry kit. anyway the eeciv runs in closed loop using only the maf signal during full throttle. therefore if its ran after the maf the eeciv cant tell. As for the nitrous TUNE TUNE TUNE guy. all you have to do is use the right sized jets and either bump down the timing or use good gas. I have over 100k miles and have put at least 15-20 bottles through my car. with .047s all the way to .081s with a single fogger nozzle.

[1slo5.0]

What nitrous systems have you used that said to run it thru the MAF??? I've used NOS and Nitrous Express and both of them say put the nozzle close to the throttle body. They actually specifically say to drill a hole thru the air inlet tube and throttle body where the two connect and put the nozzle there. It doesn't matter if its closed loop, open loop or belt loop. The nitrous system is independent of the computer. The computer does not need to know it is there and nitrous spraying thru the MAF doesn't tell the computer anything. The MAF measures airflow and that's it. The way a dry system works is there are two nitrous solonoids with a tee connection between them and a device that communicates pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. When the system is activated the nitrous pressure causes an increase in fuel pressure (to about 85psi + or -) which gives the engine the extra fuel to burn.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

if you use a single solonoid with out a fuel pressure riser it has to go before the maf. Reading the incoming air and nitrous by way of temperature, the maf sends signal to the cpu and it lengthens injector duty cycle "inj. pulswidth".

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY if you use a single solonoid with out a fuel pressure riser it has to go before the maf. Reading the incoming air and nitrous by way of temperature, the maf sends signal to the cpu and it lengthens injector duty cycle "inj. pulswidth".

The single soleniod dry systems that I've seen only run up to 100hp which doesn't need much fuel enrichment. Now I've only seen a couple of the single soloniod systems so there might be some other ones out there that support more than 100hp. I guess some cheap kits might want you to spray in front of the MAF to super cool the hot wire to try to fool the computer but if it were me I'd get a real nitrous kit. Duty cycle and pulsewidth are two totaly different things also.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

could someone explain the diffrence between duty cycle and pulswidth please?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY could someone explain the diffrence between duty cycle and pulswidth please?

The duty cycle of a fuel injector is the amount of time that the fuel injectors are on. The more demand on the injectors, the higher the duty cycle and the more stress that is put on them.

The pulse width is a signal from the computer to the injector. The computer produces a signal to open the injectors for a length of time based on engine demands communicated to the computer by sensors. The longer that the injector is open the more fuel is injected. As engine load and rpm are increased the injector open times are increased to match increasing airflow. The computer output signal is called the injector pulse width. The longer the pulse width, the more fuel is injected.