Clutch

Racinjason81 · February 15th, 2009, 10:40 AM

the king cobra is a good street clutch as long as you stay away from slicks and DRs.
they grab hard and engage smooth.I run one and cant complain. while the trans is out you should install a steel front bearing retainer it will make the clutch feel much smoother.the KC is a little over 200 bucks so you should spend a few more bucks so you gotta clutch that will handle your future upgrades.Spec is also good but with a ceramic faced disc break in will be different
than a organic disc like a KC or stock one would have

onequicktang · February 15th, 2009, 11:12 AM

the king cobra was the worst clutch I have ever owned. atleast twice as hard as oe. Im telling you centerforce dual friction, holds a ton of power and is alot lighter than stock. You will love it. It took me awhile to get used to it because it was so light. The only bad thing is sometimes I hear the counter weight on the pressure plate when My car is idling, but I dint have the full interior in their yet either.

black5.0 · February 15th, 2009, 11:19 AM

Get a adjustable clutch quadrant

95BlackStang · February 15th, 2009, 12:48 PM

Originally Posted by black5.0

Get a adjustable clutch quadrant

+1

Racinjason81 · February 15th, 2009, 06:21 PM

I have a friend that had centerforce DFs and he hated it one with a monte with a T-56 and a 383 that the clutch slips like crazy.thats the weakness to the DF the pressure plate.the KC isnt for weaklings .If you cant drive a car with a KC dont even try to drive a 03-04 cobra since they are just as stiff. their is a comprimise between the KC and centerforce though get a DF disc with a KC pressure plate and it should hold even better
than the DF.

onequicktang · February 15th, 2009, 06:52 PM

my car has 600+ rwhp and my center force doesn't slip at all. I disagree on the cobra clutch. I have driven many cobras and they were no where as stiff as the KC. They were almost as nice as my center force as far as pedal effort.

flamedstang95 · February 15th, 2009, 08:22 PM

I'm running a Spec 1 with a fidanza aluminum flywheel and it's just fine. ARTS PERFORMANCE PARTS will have clutches and flywheels cheaper than anywhere else. Go to their site and tell him what you need, he'll hook you up. He sold me a Spec 1 for 209. SHIPPED, my AFM n/a powerpipe for 220. SHIPPED, and my 75mm Pro-M for 225. SHIPPED Saved me alot of cash.

onequicktang · February 16th, 2009, 08:10 AM

ya that is a good deal. I paid over 300 for my center force.

Itkix · February 23rd, 2009, 12:22 PM

I got the tranny dropped today, what a job especilally with the lt headers, first thing I see is rust all over the flywheel I havent took the clutch off yet cause I got to go to work, I went ahead and went with the RAM powergrip HD clutch, Ford racing t/o bearing (heavy duty) 50 bucks, pilot bearing, bolt and dowel kit, steeda firewall adjuster kit, I'm just gonna get the flywheel resurfaced, and I dont think I'm gonna replace the rear seal if its not leaking, I read it can be difficult. Went with the Ram cause after many hours of research I really couldnt find any negative about the clutch, it was between ram and centerforce did find some negative about the cf but most like it.

Itkix · February 24th, 2009, 06:28 PM

I got the clutch off today and the disc was worn out, pressure plate had hot spots all over it. Took the flywheel and got it resurfaced guy had to take .050 off to get it back smooth. Glad I got that done. Next step putting it all back together.

Itkix · March 7th, 2009, 07:43 PM

Got clutch in and its smooth but I dont know if I got it adjusted right, I have the steeda firewall adjuster and seems as soon as I let the clutch off the floor I'm moving is that a good point I dont want to burn this clutch up. It just has a touch of slack in the cable. Seems when I turn the adjuster the cable stays the same.

Itkix · March 8th, 2009, 09:04 PM

Anybody

BEASTstang · March 10th, 2009, 02:38 AM

I'm not an expert , but when i installed my quadrant and firewall adjuster ,i had the clutch adjusted and the shop said a little free play when it's disengaged ,and about 1" - 2" from the floor to engage is good ....but it all comes down to personal preference......

Itkix · March 10th, 2009, 09:09 AM

Seems like Ill be good then just have to get use to it.

February 15th, 2009, 10:40 AM	#21
Racinjason81 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: New jersey Posts: 1,559 iTrader: 0 reviews	the king cobra is a good street clutch as long as you stay away from slicks and DRs. they grab hard and engage smooth.I run one and cant complain. while the trans is out you should install a steel front bearing retainer it will make the clutch feel much smoother.the KC is a little over 200 bucks so you should spend a few more bucks so you gotta clutch that will handle your future upgrades.Spec is also good but with a ceramic faced disc break in will be different than a organic disc like a KC or stock one would have __________________ Heres a real funny video youtube.com/watch?v=ojB7KkaR03I VTEC stands for Very Torqueless Economy Car Honda stands for Hold On Not Done Accelerating 1991 LX 5.0 H/B(T-70 turbo coming soon)

February 15th, 2009, 11:19 AM	#23
black5.0 Enthusiast 90 mustang notchback Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 500 iTrader: 0 reviews	Get a adjustable clutch quadrant __________________ 306 Turbo Notch D&G Tuned 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3

February 15th, 2009, 06:21 PM	#25
Racinjason81 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: New jersey Posts: 1,559 iTrader: 0 reviews	I have a friend that had centerforce DFs and he hated it one with a monte with a T-56 and a 383 that the clutch slips like crazy.thats the weakness to the DF the pressure plate.the KC isnt for weaklings .If you cant drive a car with a KC dont even try to drive a 03-04 cobra since they are just as stiff. their is a comprimise between the KC and centerforce though get a DF disc with a KC pressure plate and it should hold even better than the DF. __________________ Heres a real funny video youtube.com/watch?v=ojB7KkaR03I VTEC stands for Very Torqueless Economy Car Honda stands for Hold On Not Done Accelerating 1991 LX 5.0 H/B(T-70 turbo coming soon)

February 15th, 2009, 08:22 PM	#27
flamedstang95 Regular 1995 Mustang GT Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Magnolia, DE Posts: 386 iTrader: 0 reviews	I'm running a Spec 1 with a fidanza aluminum flywheel and it's just fine. ARTS PERFORMANCE PARTS will have clutches and flywheels cheaper than anywhere else. Go to their site and tell him what you need, he'll hook you up. He sold me a Spec 1 for 209. SHIPPED, my AFM n/a powerpipe for 220. SHIPPED, and my 75mm Pro-M for 225. SHIPPED Saved me alot of cash. __________________ See garage for mods

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February 15th, 2009, 11:12 AM	#22
onequicktang Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 16 iTrader: 0 reviews	the king cobra was the worst clutch I have ever owned. atleast twice as hard as oe. Im telling you centerforce dual friction, holds a ton of power and is alot lighter than stock. You will love it. It took me awhile to get used to it because it was so light. The only bad thing is sometimes I hear the counter weight on the pressure plate when My car is idling, but I dint have the full interior in their yet either.

February 15th, 2009, 06:52 PM	#26
onequicktang Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 16 iTrader: 0 reviews	my car has 600+ rwhp and my center force doesn't slip at all. I disagree on the cobra clutch. I have driven many cobras and they were no where as stiff as the KC. They were almost as nice as my center force as far as pedal effort.

February 16th, 2009, 08:10 AM	#28
onequicktang Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 16 iTrader: 0 reviews	ya that is a good deal. I paid over 300 for my center force.

February 23rd, 2009, 12:22 PM	#29
Itkix Regular Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 52 iTrader: 0 reviews	I got the tranny dropped today, what a job especilally with the lt headers, first thing I see is rust all over the flywheel I havent took the clutch off yet cause I got to go to work, I went ahead and went with the RAM powergrip HD clutch, Ford racing t/o bearing (heavy duty) 50 bucks, pilot bearing, bolt and dowel kit, steeda firewall adjuster kit, I'm just gonna get the flywheel resurfaced, and I dont think I'm gonna replace the rear seal if its not leaking, I read it can be difficult. Went with the Ram cause after many hours of research I really couldnt find any negative about the clutch, it was between ram and centerforce did find some negative about the cf but most like it.

February 24th, 2009, 06:28 PM	#30
Itkix Regular Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 52 iTrader: 0 reviews	I got the clutch off today and the disc was worn out, pressure plate had hot spots all over it. Took the flywheel and got it resurfaced guy had to take .050 off to get it back smooth. Glad I got that done. Next step putting it all back together.

March 7th, 2009, 07:43 PM	#31
Itkix Regular Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 52 iTrader: 0 reviews	Got clutch in and its smooth but I dont know if I got it adjusted right, I have the steeda firewall adjuster and seems as soon as I let the clutch off the floor I'm moving is that a good point I dont want to burn this clutch up. It just has a touch of slack in the cable. Seems when I turn the adjuster the cable stays the same.

March 8th, 2009, 09:04 PM	#32
Itkix Regular Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 52 iTrader: 0 reviews	Anybody

March 10th, 2009, 02:38 AM	#33
BEASTstang DILLIGAF Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: SoCal Posts: 286 iTrader: 0 reviews	I'm not an expert , but when i installed my quadrant and firewall adjuster ,i had the clutch adjusted and the shop said a little free play when it's disengaged ,and about 1" - 2" from the floor to engage is good ....but it all comes down to personal preference......

March 10th, 2009, 09:09 AM	#34
Itkix Regular Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 52 iTrader: 0 reviews	Seems like Ill be good then just have to get use to it.

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