weak/no spark
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 04:11 AM   2 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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weak/no spark


I just got a 95 5.0, I got it for nearly nothing cause it kept not starting intermittently when the car would start it would fire right up. when it wouldn't start it wouldn't even sound close.
I heard the "computer" was changed, I am guessing the ecu? So I got it home and it fired up right away ran great then later no start. I replaced the cap rotor plugs still have to go in, and wires cause I just got the car. Then checked for spark, I get this small weak spark once and find the coil and coil wire BADLY corroded so much so I just replaced the coil. Again no start, when the car did start it would run for a couple minutes then die.
So after some reading I replaced the TFI thinking that would be it, nope. Still I get one weak spark then nothing after. Today I checked and have power @ the coil 6 something volts same as my tired of turning it over dead battery. No power at any of the TFI terminals in the harness (key off) That is what I read it should be, but with power on I only had power @ one # 2 from edge pin and not 2 like I read at TFI trouble shooting in this forum
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-shooting.html
The thing is I don't know which terminal it is cause I have seen both that they are different on the black and gray external TFI's I had a gray one but it wasn't a motorcraft so I don't know if it makes a difference.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...comparison.gif
I have a multimeter and want to test things cause I dont have the funds to just replace everything. I didn't understand how the PIP is tested, I am new to the multimeter and posting on forums. I hate starting my posting cause of a problem but that is how it goes this time I guess.
In the morning I am going to try checking grounds... oops I don't always do things in order
Thanks in advance for any help I am sure this will get figured out some time just hope sooner than later.
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 03:49 PM   #2
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I checked and cleaned the main battery ground on the front of block, looked good and the 3 green screw grounds 2 by battery and 1 passenger near firewall. but didn't seem to work. I couldn't find a ground on the back of the heads? Anyone know which head it is on? or is there one there on the 95 5.0? is there another I am missing? any help would be appreciated thanks again.

EDIT:
The car was being jumped when checking for spark and was turning over fine one there was a little charge. Sometime wouldn't turn over right away though? bad connection? is that normal? Should I go out and buy a Chilton/haynes Manual? I thought I would be able to find everything online.

Last edited by funfiveowe; April 3rd, 2010 at 07:52 PM. Reason: missing information
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 11:28 PM   #3
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fireing problem?


[QUOTE=funfiveowe;2760449]I just got a 95 5.0, I got it for nearly nothing cause it kept not starting intermittently when the car would start it would fire right up. when it wouldn't start it wouldn't even sound close.
I heard the "computer" was changed, I am guessing the ecu? So I got it home and it fired up right away ran great then later no start. I replaced the cap rotor plugs still have to go in, and wires cause I just got the car. Then checked for spark, I get this small weak spark once and find the coil and coil wire BADLY corroded so much so I just replaced the coil. Again no start, when the car did start it would run for a couple minutes then die.
So after some reading I replaced the TFI thinking that would be it, nope. Still I get one weak spark then nothing after. Today I checked and have power @ the coil 6 something volts same as my tired of turning it over dead battery. No power at any of the TFI terminals in the harness (key off) That is what I read it should be, but with power on I only had po
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 11:38 PM   #4
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Also someone may have connected the battery backwards and made it reverse polarity! 1st i would get a new battery if that dont work then you need a new computer/ ecu because the battery shorted it out.
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 11:52 PM   #5
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if its a v6 its probably a crankshaft position sensor. Thats pretty much all i know about fireing problem's. Hope it helped you.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 12:07 AM   #6
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Thanks bulldog, The battery hasn't been moved, I knew the person I got the car from and its hooked up correctly neg grounded to block, Pos to starter. I have spent the day looking at wiring diagrams and taking notes of how to test things. I need to figure out why I only have power @ one terminal of the TFI harness and not 2 terminals like I should have with the key on. which one doesn't have the power it should and trace back to ...... well hopefully get it figured out
Things I have to test that it could be?
Ignition switch
Ignition relay
PIP sensor
Anyone with any more suggestions feel free if its not one of these for any reason let me know, if its possibly something else let me know.
Thanks again all.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 12:50 AM   #7
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two grounds!


on my 95 gt i have two gounds! One on the motor and the other on bolted on the frame! Maybe thats it?
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Old April 4th, 2010, 01:08 AM   #8
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And i there should also be a hot wire from the battery to the and bolted on the fuse box, then another hot bolted rite beside the one from the battery and going to the alternater. If the battery side is hot and the other isn't just bypass it and run a hot wire or a copper spacer from the terminal on the fuse box thats is hot to the other terminal on the fuse box that should be hot. Its happened to me on another car and that fixed it but i would only do it as a last resort you know!
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Old April 4th, 2010, 02:24 AM   #9
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I have been reading and think that the terminal I should and don't have power to is the ICM TFI power run terminal of the wire harness. I was going to try and find the wire colors for each of the tfi terminals to verify its the power run if anyone know the color for that I would like to know. Back to reading at least I am learning a lot about ignitions.
I will check the frame ground tomorrow I didn't check that before.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 11:09 PM   #10
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K tested again today and have power with key on to both H4 and H5 terminals of the TFI ICM harness (key on) but now power to the H3 "power crank" when the key is turned and held by someone else in the start position (both clutch in and out).
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-shooting.html
looking at the wire going in to H3 it is white and pink which shows ignition switch going into clutch interlock there by starter starter relay.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...nks-ign-ac.gif
Does this mean that ignition switch, clutch interlock, or starter relay could be bad? the car will turn over. does that rule any of these out?
Guess I will be trying to read about starter relays and testing them.
Thanks again in advance for any help.
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Old April 5th, 2010, 06:31 AM   #11
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if your engine is turning over you can rule out your starting system and the clutch interlock swith, if there was a prob with either of those when you turn the key nothing would happen and the starter wouldnt even turn, but usually on fords if your getting no or intermittent spark it can be caused by the cam sensor and no power to injectors or a faulty signal to injectors is caused by the crank sensor. considering the car will start sometimes i would rule out a bad ecu. its prob. a bad sensor causing this. try pulling codes and see if you get anything. also the pickup coil or pip in the dist can cause the no spark. and a bad pip should throw out a cel code to let u know.
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Last edited by B John; April 5th, 2010 at 06:38 AM.
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Old April 6th, 2010, 01:26 PM   #12
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Thanks B John, I am not going to have as much time to work on it now that it is during the week but hopefully will get some done. I did check and do have 12 @ the red injector wires. I was thinking about the PIP. I will see if I can get that tested, I think I can just loosen the dizzy and turn it back and forth (ignition on) and look for spark at the coil. I will also try and get a code reader I saw something about checking the codes via a series of blinking lights but think a code reader would be the way for me so I am not questioning myself. Thanks again and will keep you all posted.
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Old April 6th, 2010, 04:27 PM   #13
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or you can turn the motor over, and check for spark. have someone hold the key while you check the coil instead of having to mess with the dist. it seems easier to me that way. and at the auto shack you can buy a obdI code reader.
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Old April 7th, 2010, 04:10 AM   #14
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The local auto shop here has loaner tools with a deposit so I got a code reader but every time I tried to get it to go it said that it couldn't connect with the car. I called the auto shop and they said that just happens some time, and that I should look into checking the codes by way of flashing, I saw something about this somewhere online I may have to look at again.
So after I had no luck with the code reader I got a noid light loaner and didn't get a flash with the motor turning over. Thinking I don't have a fuel injector pulse and no spark I am thinking that it may be the PIP/ ignition stator, that is my problem. I really hope that this is it and I will get the time this week to just put in a whole new dizzy.
Thanks again for all of the help it is truly appreciated
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Old April 7th, 2010, 07:21 PM   #15
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Picked up reman dizzy today don't have time to get it in before work. I will read about replacing them tonight and hopefully get it in tomorrow weather permitting. I read that I should turn the motor to put the rotor facing straight back (any direction I won't forget) back is easy, then pull it and reset the new rotor to the place that the old one turns to on the way out, then hopefully when it goes in it should turn to facing straight back like the one that came out. Anyway if anyone has any other tips I am missing feel free, I am always open to advice. Thanks
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Old April 8th, 2010, 12:29 AM   #16
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this is just my opinion from experience but if the car has no spark and your injectors arent firing, and your scan tool cant communicate with the ecm. you prob have a bad comp. if your new dist dont fix it. the ecm would be my next guess.
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Old April 9th, 2010, 05:24 AM   #17
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K got the dizzy in today and she fired up I think I should set the timing, change the oil, get insurance and I'll be taken it out. So excited I need this! This is my release what helps me get by. I hate that I may not have time to do this until sunday Anyway thank you all again for the help and advice I will try and keep you all posted on the slow modifications getting done.
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Old April 9th, 2010, 11:16 PM   #18
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happy you got it fixed have fun
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Old April 10th, 2010, 01:31 AM   #19
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Cool, looks like you got it. I just read your post here and was going to recommend changing the dist. I just went through the same nightmare also. It was the dizzy for me too.
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Old April 11th, 2010, 05:12 AM   #20
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Sure enough that was it, got insurance, and changed the oil, and have been driving it today;D Now to all the other things I have to fix first and most important is the clutch... well at least it runs now and looks good.
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