Budget 95 5.0 build.
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Old September 4th, 2010, 11:03 AM   #1
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Budget 95 5.0 build.


Ok i have a completey stock 95 gt 5.0 i dont have the money to supercharge or turbo and i dont want NOS. So what do i need to do to get some cheap HP out of this motor its a 5 speed im gonna put 3.73s in the rear but thats as far as ive gotten. I priced a motor out of a 1998 exploder 5.0 i can get it for $350 oil pan to throttle body complete what all can i use off this to make some decent power. and what is better an x pipe or h pipe. I want to make a quick street beater it will not be raced except from redlight to redlight and will be a DD. thanks
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Old September 5th, 2010, 01:51 AM   #2
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headers, xpipe, catback, gears )3:73s or 4:10s). You'd feel a bit of a difference with those four things without spending a huge amount of money or losing daily driving performance or reliability.
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Old September 6th, 2010, 11:45 AM   #3
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Big baller on a budget! Seriously though if you can get the whole motor for 350 thats a good deal. Most of the time the heads alone will run you about that if not more. Get it and pull the heads and have them cleaned up, valve job, springs, etc. and you can run the intakes off it, 3.73 gears, exhaust x or H its mainly just a different sound. Then take it and get a good tune done, our cars are very picky and really need to be tuned after major mods such as heads and intakes. The very first thing I would do if I was you is get some sub frame connectors, #1 cause it sounds like you are going to be beating on the car and without them you will tear it up BAD, #2 it will help you with traction and you really need some good tires and some suspension work to go with these mods or you aren't going to be able to use the power....
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Old September 6th, 2010, 01:45 PM   #4
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Its NITROUS not nos. NOS is a company that sells Nitrous systems and parts.
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Old September 7th, 2010, 12:01 AM   #5
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That explorer motor should be good.It comes with GT40 heads/intake and thats a power increase over the stock 5.0..I would do full bolton's..LONGTUBE heads,X-pipe and flowmasters dumped.Intake,70 mm TB,Port the lower half of your intake and port the TB opening of the upper to 70MM and so on.THe most expensive thing to do would be gears because all in all its about 400 bucks plus with gears included...
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Old September 7th, 2010, 05:45 PM   #6
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94,95,96,97,98 Mustang GT Subframe Sub Frame Connectors: eBay Motors (item 230360438649 end time Sep-16-10 22:29:06 PDT) are these subframe connectors any good cuz i could build these
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Old September 7th, 2010, 05:52 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Bigballer460 View Post
94,95,96,97,98 Mustang GT Subframe Sub Frame Connectors: eBay Motors (item 230360438649 end time Sep-16-10 22:29:06 PDT) are these subframe connectors any good cuz i could build these
If its the same concept as fox bodies, full length weld in's would be better. Those are short ones.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...item35a28d5518


The welds from stuff I have bought from them have not been the best.
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Old September 7th, 2010, 06:04 PM   #8
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Gears, FL-SFCs, exhaust, and shed every pound you can bear to lose, especially any pound that oscillates or rotates. AcidTonic pulled something like 500 lbs out of his '98 Cobra just from gutting the interior down to metal except for the front seats and dashboard. You can bet that a 2800 lb stock-motor'd car is gonna haul a lot more ass than a mod'd 3400 lb car.
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Old September 7th, 2010, 06:56 PM   #9
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ok thanks guys i dont want to gut my interior cuz this will be my daily driver so i want to keep it stock on the inside. im pretty sure i can build those sub frame connectors they look fairly simple and im a good welder/fabricator im gonna get under my car and look to see what it will take. I got some 3.73 gears in a junk truck im gonna check out to see if there any good so that will save me some money like i said im on a strict budget so whatever i can save money on im gonna do. so what headers will work with the gt40p heads and do i need cats cuz if not im gonna leave them off im in north florida we dont have emission laws here and i cant afford high flow cats.
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Old September 7th, 2010, 06:58 PM   #10
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what is (FL-SFCs)
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Old September 7th, 2010, 07:28 PM   #11
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Full length sub frame connectors
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Old September 7th, 2010, 07:52 PM   #12
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o ok thanks
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Old September 8th, 2010, 06:15 PM   #13
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You dont need special headers for the P heads, people are just lazy, you can change the plug wire boots, and put 90's on them and they will fit fine, talk to snatchy (93hatch) he had a set and had no problems running them...
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Old September 8th, 2010, 06:19 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
Gears, FL-SFCs, exhaust, and shed every pound you can bear to lose, especially any pound that oscillates or rotates. AcidTonic pulled something like 500 lbs out of his '98 Cobra just from gutting the interior down to metal except for the front seats and dashboard. You can bet that a 2800 lb stock-motor'd car is gonna haul a lot more ass than a mod'd 3400 lb car.
Really? I would take that bet any time......My full interior, no weight reduction, with working AC, modded car VS. anyones non modded, 5.0 mustang on a diet......Shit I will even leave my box with 2 - 10 subs that weigh about 150 lbs in there, and I'll throw in a passenger!
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Old September 9th, 2010, 06:49 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
You can bet that a 2800 lb stock-motor'd car is gonna haul a lot more ass than a mod'd 3400 lb car.
Not necesasarily. It depends on how many mods there are on the 3400lb car.
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Old September 9th, 2010, 09:55 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
Not necesasarily. It depends on how many mods there are on the 3400lb car.
The point of that comment was that in the OP's situation, he could make get his car much closer to his goal on his meager budget if he combined the bolt-ons he could afford with some aggressive weight reduction.

I wasn't intending that statement to be taken as about comparing a stock NPI GT stripped down to 2800 lbs to a 3400-lb car with boost.
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Old September 10th, 2010, 08:59 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
The point of that comment was that in the OP's situation, he could make get his car much closer to his goal on his meager budget if he combined the bolt-ons he could afford with some aggressive weight reduction.
Yup. That's basically what I've been aiming for though my weight reduction so far amounts to a comparatively modest 135lb.
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Old September 10th, 2010, 10:23 AM   #18
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Ok now i know this is a stupid ? on a performance mustang site but BULLITT95 what kind of fuel millage do you get with your setup ive been looking at your mod list and i think i can swing some of the same parts u got if i can get anywhere close to your hp/tq numbers i will be happy.
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Old September 11th, 2010, 08:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bigballer460 View Post
BULLITT95 what kind of fuel millage do you get with your setup
About 1mpg better than when my car was bone stock. i.e. 18mpg city, 24mpg highway (steady 75mph).
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