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#21 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Jamaica, NY
Posts: 1,071
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Personal Note: I got for sale: All Parts are NEW. New BBK 75 TB MM For sale. Holley 24lbs Injector BBK Full Lenght SubFrame Connector w/seat support
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Giving Away For FREE PM ME. FREE 351 Block, 90,xxx miles (Non roller block) FREE 94-98 GT Hood (red) |
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#22 |
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MM Fanatic
95 Mustang GT
depends how many people are pushing
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Playa del Carmen, Mexico
Posts: 3,243
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with light mods like that you should not need to change the fuel pump or the injectors 19's will be fine for mild heads and intake....
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#23 |
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MM Fanatic
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when you get your mods...the tune is the key to the power gains...
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#24 | |
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MM Fanatic
95 Mustang GT
depends how many people are pushing
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Playa del Carmen, Mexico
Posts: 3,243
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+1 but its not necessary with just minor mods wait and tune it when you feel like you have done most of your major mods tuning takes every little detail into consideration |
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#25 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Jamaica, NY
Posts: 1,071
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He'll need some better control of that car with 300hp lol. I'm sure he's not going to keep it to say I have 300 HP and not use it..
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Giving Away For FREE PM ME. FREE 351 Block, 90,xxx miles (Non roller block) FREE 94-98 GT Hood (red) |
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#26 |
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MM Fanatic
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yea only tune when you get major mods...like full exhaust...intake...heads and cams...s/c obviously
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#27 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Larger injectors and a chip tune aren't necessary until you get into HCI mods, forced induction, or a stroker build.
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![]() 243.5rwhp/284.2rwtq Mod list in My Garage |
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#28 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2
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Easiest way to get a sure 300rwhp is by putting together your own h/c/i kit. The most proven one would be a set of AFR 165 heads, a custom cam from Ed Curtis at FTI (Flowtech Induction) and a decent intake such as Edelbrock Performer, Trick Flow Street Heat, ported Cobra, Holley, etc. Combine this with all the bolt-ons and supporting mods such as injectors, mass-air, and a good tune and you can easily see 300+ rwhp. Some have even seen 315-320rwhp on stock shortblocks with great drivability.
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#29 |
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MM Fanatic
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^^ sounds like a plan
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#30 |
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Regular
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Trickflow top end kit alone should get ya there. But its $2500 just for the parts. Also go with a Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, great pedal feel and awesome hold! Have fun building just like I am!.
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Mods:Underdrive Pulleys, Ram Air w/ K&N Filter, Rebuilt T-5, 3.73s, High Flow H-Pipe, Energy Suspension Poly Motor and Tranny Mounts. Soon: Un= headers, Centerforce Clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax Fidanza Alumnum FW, BBK 75mm TB, EGR Elim.
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#31 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Larger injectors ~$350 Higher flow fuel pump ~$150 Tweecer RT self-tuner ~$500 Higher stall torque converter ~$500 So the true cost of doing the H/C/I conversion is going to be ~$3500 on a manual GT (more if you upgrade clutch/tranny), and ~$4000 on an automatic GT, and that doesn't include labor costs.
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![]() 243.5rwhp/284.2rwtq Mod list in My Garage |
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#32 | |
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MM Fanatic
95 Mustang GT
depends how many people are pushing
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Playa del Carmen, Mexico
Posts: 3,243
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#33 |
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MM Fanatic
95 Mustang GT
depends how many people are pushing
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Playa del Carmen, Mexico
Posts: 3,243
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sorry not trying to sound like a prick but so many people get on here an post info that they have read in a magazine... and thats a quick way to blow some money....and as far as the cam I personally have not dealt with ed .... I have heard that he is pretty good.. I actually called him first and he was kinda rude told me once I knew all the specs to call back and hung up....if you are going with a simple top end then a package like the trick flow is a great setup....you could scrap the cam and get a custom grind for a few more ponies or use the one it comes with for now and if you decide to do more mods down the road then go custom grind....talk to some people on here about what they are running before you jump into anything
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#34 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Whatever the argument, the bottom line is that 235rwhp (210rwhp if you have an AODE) is the ceiling for basic bolt-on mods with stock H/C/I. To get 300+rwhp, you'll need to change at least the heads and intake (it's still achievable with the stock cam). TFS, Edelbrock, and Holley have matched heads/cam/intake kits while AFR only do heads so you have to match the cam and intake to them. You can put together your own combination but that doesn't guarantee 300+rwhp nor a good-running engine unless you've done some thorough research so you know what you're getting into. It is here where 95StangMX makes a very valid point.
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![]() 243.5rwhp/284.2rwtq Mod list in My Garage Last edited by Bullitt95; January 17th, 2008 at 07:33 AM. |
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