tranny drop

mustangmatt123 · January 6th, 2011, 07:42 AM

hey all, yesterday I have had enough with the noise coming from my transmission, so I went ahead and jacked it up. It took me an hour and a half to securely jack it up, (not including looking for 4 bricks and replacing 2 bricks

)I have gotten several opinions on what is making the noise, and going with the pilot bearing being old. I have a installation guide for a clutch to help me, but I'm having a problem with gettin the midpipe off. the guide doesn't mention me needing like 6 extensions to reach it.

anyways I'm gonna go get more extensions after work, then see if i can reach the damn bolts on it.

I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. I'm only 16 and have no one helpin me, and I don't want to take it to a shop and spend 300+ dollars when it will take me 20 dollars at most. here is the link to the guide(s) I'm using: RAM HDX Clutch - Installation Instructions at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! and Mustang RAM Clutch Kit (86-04) - Installation Instructions at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

if anyone wants to throw their 2 cents in its welcome, and very much appreciated. I can get pics of where I'm at on the project if anyone needs them

castine917 · January 6th, 2011, 07:59 AM

those instructions look pretty accurate and detailed.

spend another 25 on jack stands! bricks aren't the safest. look for a swivel socket to make it easier on you. one like this ball and socket is best. IPM80A, Universal Joint, Power, Swivel Ball, Lock Button, 1 3/8"

one like this u joint type jams and isn't worth it. Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

mustangmatt123 · January 6th, 2011, 08:10 AM

I have a swivel joint, but only one. Do I need more?

Cobraman1024 · January 6th, 2011, 08:26 AM

You should only need a 3/8 swivel joint.
I didnt read through the AM instructions but it took me an hour and a half (with the car on jackstands and using hand tools instead of air tools) on my 95 Cobra to have the T5 on the ground and about an hour when I removed it on my 95 V6 Mustang. The most difficulty if you are not using air tools is removing the driveshaft bolts (super tight usually) and the h-pipe to header nuts which are usually effected by the exhaust heat (I call it heat-welded). Other than those two things, its pretty easy.
EDIT: just checked out the AM instructions. They are for a new edge mustang with a T45 manual trans.
The easiest way I have found to drop a T5 is to remove the two 13mm bolts holding the trans crossmember to the car frame with it being supported by a jack. Lower the transmission until you have clear acces to the four 15mm bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Remove those four bolts and pull the trans toward the back of the car and lower it using the jack. Remove the starter and clutch fork from the bellhousing and then six 15mm bellhousing bolts. You can actually tilt the engine down towards you a little bit by grasping the bellhousing through that large center circle opening---this allows you to see the top two 15mm bolts easier. Once bellhoising is off, install the clutch alignment tool into the center of the clutch before removing the pressure plate bolts----makes it easier to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as an assembly and prevents the pressure plate from falling on you once the volts for it are removed.
When you remove the flywheel, there is a large thin metal adapter plate behind it; DO NOT forget to reinstall this onto the engine dowels before putting the flywheel back on!!!!!

mustangmatt123 · January 6th, 2011, 08:33 AM

wait...how the hell did you get your air tool to get to the headers/midpipe bolts? I'm at a dead end because there are like 2 places that I can reach the bolts and between shit getting in the way and the swivel just swiveling off the bolt I cant seem to get them out. the bolts on the inside were easier, but I'm at a loss on how to get the outer bolts off

Cobraman1024 · January 6th, 2011, 08:55 AM

One other thing. While you have the flywheel off is the optimum time to replace the crankshaft rear main seal if you have an oil leak there (most 5.0 engines are leaking there)

Cobraman1024 · January 6th, 2011, 08:58 AM

I dont remember if I had to use a swivel for those outside nuts or not on my Cobra----- I have longtube headers now so its easier to get to the midpipe nuts.
On the v6 you could just access them with long extensions, no swivel needed.

marshall88lx · January 9th, 2011, 09:27 PM

def invest in some jack stands!

ryanw · January 9th, 2011, 10:02 PM

DONT USE BRICKS....They will break under the weight of your car. WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO DO KILL YOUR SELF ? Im sorry if im coming across as a dick, but many people have died doing shit like that. I know its already been said but ill say it to. GET JACK STANDS

s351r13 · January 10th, 2011, 01:04 AM

Originally Posted by ryanw

DONT USE BRICKS....They will break under the weight of your car. WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO DO KILL YOUR SELF ? Im sorry if im coming across as a dick, but many people have died doing shit like that. I know its already been said but ill say it to. GET JACK STANDS

Ditto!

mustangmatt123 · January 10th, 2011, 07:26 AM

i got 2 jacks in the front, and bricks with wood on top in the back. anyways im thinking about quitting before i actually drop the transmission, and take it to a shop. thing is pissing me off soo much i dont care about the money...i just want it fixed

castine917 · January 10th, 2011, 12:25 PM

get jacks for back too!

Cobraman1024 · January 10th, 2011, 09:13 PM

Originally Posted by mustangmatt123

i got 2 jacks in the front, and bricks with wood on top in the back. anyways im thinking about quitting before i actually drop the transmission, and take it to a shop. thing is pissing me off soo much i dont care about the money...i just want it fixed

Your choice...........just don't go to Firestone, they charged me about $600 8 years ago------just that was enough to kick my ass in gear to learn how to do it myself. Last year alone I removed/installed T5's about 5 times for clutch changes in three different 94/95 mustangs lol......

mustangmatt123 · January 12th, 2011, 02:32 PM

yeah I put everything back together. someone told me you needed a gasket for the headers to the midpipe, but I dont see any residue of an old one. is this true?

95opal · January 12th, 2011, 02:58 PM

Originally Posted by mustangmatt123

yeah I put everything back together. someone told me you needed a gasket for the headers to the midpipe, but I dont see any residue of an old one. is this true?

Latemodels dont use collector gaskets, we have ball and socket connections no need for a gasket.

Cobraman1024 · January 12th, 2011, 09:47 PM

If you have an aftermarket header/h-pipe combination or longtubes, it might be worth it to use some Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker. Sometimes the aftermarket headers and h-pipes don't seal up perfectly with just the two studs/nuts at the collectors.

Cobraman1024 · January 12th, 2011, 09:48 PM

Originally Posted by 95opal

Latemodels dont use collector gaskets, we have ball and socket connections no need for a gasket.

The 96-98 Cobra supposedly uses a collector gasket on the passenger side. I haven't taken my '96 Cobra apart to verify this yet though.

95opal · January 13th, 2011, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by Cobraman1024

The 96-98 Cobra supposedly uses a collector gasket on the passenger side. I haven't taken my '96 Cobra apart to verify this yet though.

Yes the mod motors use a gasket but this isnt the mod forum its the 94-95 section. So lets try and keep it simple for the guy he dosent have a mod motor.

mustangmatt123 · January 13th, 2011, 01:46 PM

one more question, does the headers have a flange on it that moves? cause i dont remember the holes for the bolts being where I cant put them in at. If i can get pictures later I will

StangBanger302 · January 13th, 2011, 01:55 PM

If you're doing this by yourself, have fun dropping the transmission. Me and my Dad did it and it was not fun...When we dropped it, my Dad recently had shoulder surgery and he could not use his arm at all. It is quite awkward if you ask me.

January 6th, 2011, 07:42 AM	#1
mustangmatt123 Regular 1994 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 106 iTrader: 0 reviews	tranny drop hey all, yesterday I have had enough with the noise coming from my transmission, so I went ahead and jacked it up. It took me an hour and a half to securely jack it up, (not including looking for 4 bricks and replacing 2 bricks)I have gotten several opinions on what is making the noise, and going with the pilot bearing being old. I have a installation guide for a clutch to help me, but I'm having a problem with gettin the midpipe off. the guide doesn't mention me needing like 6 extensions to reach it. anyways I'm gonna go get more extensions after work, then see if i can reach the damn bolts on it. I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. I'm only 16 and have no one helpin me, and I don't want to take it to a shop and spend 300+ dollars when it will take me 20 dollars at most. here is the link to the guide(s) I'm using: RAM HDX Clutch - Installation Instructions at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! and Mustang RAM Clutch Kit (86-04) - Installation Instructions at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! if anyone wants to throw their 2 cents in its welcome, and very much appreciated. I can get pics of where I'm at on the project if anyone needs them

January 6th, 2011, 07:59 AM	#2
castine917 Regular 95gt,67maro,05sti.... 14.8@93,13.6@101, Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wyoming, Mi. Posts: 220 iTrader: 0 reviews	those instructions look pretty accurate and detailed. spend another 25 on jack stands! bricks aren't the safest. look for a swivel socket to make it easier on you. one like this ball and socket is best. IPM80A, Universal Joint, Power, Swivel Ball, Lock Button, 1 3/8" one like this u joint type jams and isn't worth it. Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more __________________

January 6th, 2011, 08:26 AM	#4
Cobraman1024 Enthusiast 1995 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fall River, MA and Juffair, Bahrain Posts: 780 iTrader: 0 reviews	You should only need a 3/8 swivel joint. I didnt read through the AM instructions but it took me an hour and a half (with the car on jackstands and using hand tools instead of air tools) on my 95 Cobra to have the T5 on the ground and about an hour when I removed it on my 95 V6 Mustang. The most difficulty if you are not using air tools is removing the driveshaft bolts (super tight usually) and the h-pipe to header nuts which are usually effected by the exhaust heat (I call it heat-welded). Other than those two things, its pretty easy. EDIT: just checked out the AM instructions. They are for a new edge mustang with a T45 manual trans. The easiest way I have found to drop a T5 is to remove the two 13mm bolts holding the trans crossmember to the car frame with it being supported by a jack. Lower the transmission until you have clear acces to the four 15mm bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Remove those four bolts and pull the trans toward the back of the car and lower it using the jack. Remove the starter and clutch fork from the bellhousing and then six 15mm bellhousing bolts. You can actually tilt the engine down towards you a little bit by grasping the bellhousing through that large center circle opening---this allows you to see the top two 15mm bolts easier. Once bellhoising is off, install the clutch alignment tool into the center of the clutch before removing the pressure plate bolts----makes it easier to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as an assembly and prevents the pressure plate from falling on you once the volts for it are removed. When you remove the flywheel, there is a large thin metal adapter plate behind it; DO NOT forget to reinstall this onto the engine dowels before putting the flywheel back on!!!!! __________________ 1995 SVT Cobra #182/4005, 275/305, 217k miles 1996 SVT Mystic Cobra #1666/2000, 267/263, 178k miles 1995 Mustang, 3.8L, 233k miles 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L, T5 convert, 95 GT suspension swap, 03 Cobra steering rack, 250k miles sold: 1987 GT MM Military Crew Member MM+Cleavage member #21 Last edited by Cobraman1024; January 6th, 2011 at 08:53 AM.

January 6th, 2011, 08:55 AM	#6
Cobraman1024 Enthusiast 1995 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fall River, MA and Juffair, Bahrain Posts: 780 iTrader: 0 reviews	One other thing. While you have the flywheel off is the optimum time to replace the crankshaft rear main seal if you have an oil leak there (most 5.0 engines are leaking there) __________________ 1995 SVT Cobra #182/4005, 275/305, 217k miles 1996 SVT Mystic Cobra #1666/2000, 267/263, 178k miles 1995 Mustang, 3.8L, 233k miles 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L, T5 convert, 95 GT suspension swap, 03 Cobra steering rack, 250k miles sold: 1987 GT MM Military Crew Member MM+Cleavage member #21

January 6th, 2011, 08:58 AM	#7
Cobraman1024 Enthusiast 1995 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fall River, MA and Juffair, Bahrain Posts: 780 iTrader: 0 reviews	I dont remember if I had to use a swivel for those outside nuts or not on my Cobra----- I have longtube headers now so its easier to get to the midpipe nuts. On the v6 you could just access them with long extensions, no swivel needed. __________________ 1995 SVT Cobra #182/4005, 275/305, 217k miles 1996 SVT Mystic Cobra #1666/2000, 267/263, 178k miles 1995 Mustang, 3.8L, 233k miles 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L, T5 convert, 95 GT suspension swap, 03 Cobra steering rack, 250k miles sold: 1987 GT MM Military Crew Member MM+Cleavage member #21

January 6th, 2011, 08:10 AM	#3
mustangmatt123 Regular 1994 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 106 iTrader: 0 reviews	I have a swivel joint, but only one. Do I need more?

January 6th, 2011, 08:33 AM	#5
mustangmatt123 Regular 1994 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 106 iTrader: 0 reviews	wait...how the hell did you get your air tool to get to the headers/midpipe bolts? I'm at a dead end because there are like 2 places that I can reach the bolts and between shit getting in the way and the swivel just swiveling off the bolt I cant seem to get them out. the bolts on the inside were easier, but I'm at a loss on how to get the outer bolts off

January 9th, 2011, 09:27 PM	#8
marshall88lx Newbie 88 Mustang lx Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Millbrook,al Posts: 43 iTrader: 0 reviews	def invest in some jack stands!

January 9th, 2011, 10:02 PM	#9
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	DONT USE BRICKS....They will break under the weight of your car. WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO DO KILL YOUR SELF ? Im sorry if im coming across as a dick, but many people have died doing shit like that. I know its already been said but ill say it to. GET JACK STANDS __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

January 10th, 2011, 07:26 AM	#11
mustangmatt123 Regular 1994 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 106 iTrader: 0 reviews	i got 2 jacks in the front, and bricks with wood on top in the back. anyways im thinking about quitting before i actually drop the transmission, and take it to a shop. thing is pissing me off soo much i dont care about the money...i just want it fixed

January 10th, 2011, 12:25 PM	#12
castine917 Regular 95gt,67maro,05sti.... 14.8@93,13.6@101, Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wyoming, Mi. Posts: 220 iTrader: 0 reviews	get jacks for back too! __________________

January 12th, 2011, 02:32 PM	#14
mustangmatt123 Regular 1994 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 106 iTrader: 0 reviews	yeah I put everything back together. someone told me you needed a gasket for the headers to the midpipe, but I dont see any residue of an old one. is this true?

January 12th, 2011, 09:47 PM	#16
Cobraman1024 Enthusiast 1995 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fall River, MA and Juffair, Bahrain Posts: 780 iTrader: 0 reviews	If you have an aftermarket header/h-pipe combination or longtubes, it might be worth it to use some Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker. Sometimes the aftermarket headers and h-pipes don't seal up perfectly with just the two studs/nuts at the collectors. __________________ 1995 SVT Cobra #182/4005, 275/305, 217k miles 1996 SVT Mystic Cobra #1666/2000, 267/263, 178k miles 1995 Mustang, 3.8L, 233k miles 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L, T5 convert, 95 GT suspension swap, 03 Cobra steering rack, 250k miles sold: 1987 GT MM Military Crew Member MM+Cleavage member #21

January 13th, 2011, 01:46 PM	#19
mustangmatt123 Regular 1994 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 106 iTrader: 0 reviews	one more question, does the headers have a flange on it that moves? cause i dont remember the holes for the bolts being where I cant put them in at. If i can get pictures later I will

January 13th, 2011, 01:55 PM	#20
StangBanger302 Hardcore Enthusiast 1992 Mustang LX 13.0 @ 105 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: New York Posts: 2,230 iTrader: 0 reviews	If you're doing this by yourself, have fun dropping the transmission. Me and my Dad did it and it was not fun...When we dropped it, my Dad recently had shoulder surgery and he could not use his arm at all. It is quite awkward if you ask me. __________________ As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep But if I spin, and begin to slide Please dear God, protect my ride

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